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Can someone explain AN fittings for me and answer a few questions?


Bam

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Ok, so I'm planning my fuel setup right now and since I plan on running a carb and mechanical fuel pump, I won't need anything crazy, it'll only see like 6-8psi. AN fiitings are expensive and everything, but do I really need them?

 

I just got finished running/flaring/bending my own brake lines, and figured I'd do the same with the fuel lines, just larger. Is there any problem to using a double inverted flared connection on the fuel lines for a carb setup? I'm 99% sure I'm going w/ 3/8" line, but might step up to 1/2".

 

The fuel cell I'm looking at has -8AN outlets, which is the same as 1/2", so if I went 3/8" line I'd just need a reducer, no biggie.

 

So if someone could explain why AN fittings are worth it or what (if any) advantages they have over a normal double flared setup, I'd highly appreciate it.

 

Also, any comments/recommendations would be nice as well.

 

Thanks

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all you need is aluminum tubing(1/2) and some -8 an tube nuts and sleeves. flare the line and be done.you will need a flex section between the motor and the frame..

 

IMO, run 1/2 from the cell too the pump and from there to the reg. then run 3/8(-6 an) from the reg too the carb...

 

NHRA wont pass rubber hose(most racing doesnt) hence the need for braided hose, or solid line.

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Thanks Rob. What is -6AN good up to, like hp levels? The only reason I ask is because Jegs sells the hard line in 25' sections, so I would prefer just to buy one or the other, not both. I was planning on running braided/flex line in there somewhere.

 

I thought about just getting the 3/8" line since I've read its good up to "700hp" which is more than I'll ever see. And then just putting the reducer directly on the fuel cell, from -8 to -6, and running -6 all the way. The edelbrock performer mech fuel pump accepts -6 so no more reducers/adapters would be needed.

 

But what does the carb accept?

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run the 1/2 alum line from cell up too the reg...use one peice of braided (6an)from the reg to the carb.(got to have some flex for when the motor is twisting) running aluminum line too the motor is a bad idea .run one filter before the pump and if you want , put one at the carb(smaller one).the 3/8 is ok, but ive seen fuel starve on a some systems setup like that, under heavy loads.volume suffers at that point, pressure is there, but the volume isnt, and in some cases it can cause a lean condition.

most carb fittings are 6an.and IMO a mech pump, isnt going too be the greatest, for feeding a mildly warmed over motor, but if you plan on staying under 400hp flywheel hp then 6an thru the whole system should be ok with a mech pump.

 

but with 6an and a blue pump in the rear, you should be just fine. IMO i dont like mech pumps...too much stress on the front of the cam(the high volume ones anyway).but if you are using a mech pump , then just run 6an from the filter to the pump, but run 8-an too the filter from the cell, then run 6 from there up..holleys website has some nice info and a good read up on this type of stuff....

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nhra WILL pass rubber hose if its in the stock location and came with rubber, but you can't plumb the whole car that way......

 

braided hose is pretty thats why everyone uses it....

 

convert your 1/2" AN (wich stands for army navy and is used mainly in aircraft) to 3/8 " flare and run it in steel you can use a VERY SHORT piece of rubber hose from the steel line to the motor to allow the engine to move some

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thanks guys, I think that's what i'm going to do. Its a kit car, so I just want it hidden and of course its not in a "stock" location.

 

I'll just have the solid line end on the frame rail right where the engine is and go to the braided.

 

I'm running solid mounts but I don't think it'd hurt.

 

Do they make braided lines in BLACK?

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