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household wiring, help please


copperhead

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My water heater died, so I ripped it out, and decided to install a tankless heater. Both run off 240AC. Got everything hooked up, turn it on, and....pop the breaker. Ok, turn down the heat some, turn it back on, yay hot water, pop the breaker.

 

Right now I have the heater turned all the way down, and it will run for about a minute (with the lights flickering) before it goes pop. It is running off the same power line that was feeding the old heater tank, and it never had a problem. Could this little thing be drawing too much current for the double breaker its on to handle? If so, what should I do to get more power to it?

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yes, probably. check the spec sheet that came with the heater, it should tell you amp draw. if the breaker is too small, go to beckers, loeb any electric supply house, NOT HOME DEPOT and get a bigger breaker. you'll probably need bigger wires if you need a bigger breaker. fell free to call me with any questions you have. 668-0148
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yes, probably. check the spec sheet that came with the heater, it should tell you amp draw. if the breaker is too small, go to beckers, loeb any electric supply house, NOT HOME DEPOT and get a bigger breaker. you'll probably need bigger wires if you need a bigger breaker. fell free to call me with any questions you have. 668-0148

 

Just curious why not home depot?

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wna, Home depot dipshit tried to tell me i needed #2 AWG copper for my 50 amp hot tub when i needed #8, then gave me attitude when i said no, just give me 8. #2 is good for 130 amps and 8 is good for 55 amps. besides, home depot is a ripoff on anything electrical besides 60 amp disconnects and if you need like 1 outlet or switch.

/end home depot rant.

 

AJ, i've been ready for 5 years man. pm sent.

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Wow thats impressive. The last time I saw the heater specs you showed me for the new one it was 50 amps. Most hot water tanks are going to be 50 amps as well so I don't know the problem. You did say you had a really small tank though so Dan's right. Check the specs and your breaker size.

 

Evan

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The difference *could* be in the new heater using line-neutral versus line-line to run the heater elements. Its not likely, but without knowing the specs on power draw it's something to consider.

 

It makes sense that it would draw considerably more current either way, since it has to do the heating all at once instead of over time. If your old heater was rated to do a full heatup in 45 mins, and you could drain it in 15, then it had a 3 to 1 buffer with the heat built up in the tank. If this new one is expected to provide the same temp water, it needs 3 times the current since it has no such buffer.

 

I'm not an EE I just know a lot of them...

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