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Anyone familiar with E36 cars?


coltboostin

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I recently got the itch for a BMW. Looking around, I found a clean 92 318i. Charcoal out, black leather inside. Body is straight, interior is clean. quite rust free underneath.

 

Everything works besides the A/C, power everything. Has a rear end cluck I am not concerned about.

 

I can probably get it for 1500. Good by? Dont bother? Let me know.

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1500 seems a bit high to me, but, wait for Nate.

 

To allblack325i, please don't give advice if you don't know anything. E36 is not speaking about the engine. E36 is '91-'99 3 series cars.

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the cooling system on any e36 should be checked over closely. Unfortunately the most important part (water pump) can't be checked without more work than it's worth.

 

The water pumps were made with plastic impellers that tend to melt randomly at a given point in time without much warning. Later BMW fixed this by going to a composite impeller, but there's no way to tell unless they have records (unlikely on a $1500 car). Also check the fan for cracks, if it breaks it'll take out the radiator with it most times.

 

You obviously know how to check out a body, so I'll leave that to you.

 

The RTABS (rear trailing arm bushings) on the rear suspension tend to go bad, when they do you'll be able to tell it by driving the car. If you stand on the gas while rolling (say 40mph) and the back of the car tries to crab walk along the road, then they're bad. They don't cost much, but are a major pain in the ass to replace.

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1500 seems a bit high to me, but, wait for Nate.

 

To allblack325i, please don't give advice if you don't know anything. E36 is not speaking about the engine. E36 is '91-'99 3 series cars.

 

 

 

How is what I said wrong? my 92 and my 93 were both e36 cars 325I. I always thought the 3 in 325 meant it was a 3 series.

 

 

But the other guy above my post said the same thing, but I can see how it was wrong cause I said it?????

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$1500 is a good price even with the boring 1.9 liter four.

 

Common wear items include thermostat+housing/water pump/radiator

 

Control arm bushing and ball joints both of which require a press for replacement

bad bushings are easily detected by inching the car forward at 1mph and tapping the brakes, you will feel a thumping through the steering wheel and an outside observer will see the entire front wheel moving rearward in relation to the wheel well.

 

The pcv valves go bad and cause idle problems and cel's, easy and cheap fix.

 

Rear sub frame bushings go bad and occasionally tear mounting lugs out of the body... unlikely in the underpowered 318.

 

Window regulators and motors die regularly.

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How is what I said wrong? my 92 and my 93 were both e36 cars 325I. I always thought the 3 in 325 meant it was a 3 series.

 

 

But the other guy above my post said the same thing, but I can see how it was wrong cause I said it?????

 

You said your car has an e36 in it. That is where you are wrong. The car is an e36, it does not have an e36. So I guess if you're right, your car has another 3 series inside of it?

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BMW info... :cool:

 

E36 = chassis designation (For instance F-body, SN-95, etc..)

3 = class/series (small, 5-midsize, 7-large, etc..)

25 = 2.5 I-6 engine (that isn't how the current E90/91/92/93 cars are though. They are all 3.0 even though they are designated 325, 328, etc.).

 

So if anyone asks you have a 1997 (E36) 325i... ;)

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E30's are more fun and lighter and the 2.7 is 8.5-1Cr ;)

 

 

Bitches like the E36. ;)

 

 

$1500 is a good price even with the boring 1.9 liter four.

 

Common wear items include thermostat+housing/water pump/radiator

 

Control arm bushing and ball joints both of which require a press for replacement

bad bushings are easily detected by inching the car forward at 1mph and tapping the brakes, you will feel a thumping through the steering wheel and an outside observer will see the entire front wheel moving rearward in relation to the wheel well.

 

The pcv valves go bad and cause idle problems and cel's, easy and cheap fix.

 

Rear sub frame bushings go bad and occasionally tear mounting lugs out of the body... unlikely in the underpowered 318.

 

Window regulators and motors die regularly.

 

Yeah-my buddy with a 94 325 came with me, and informed me of all that action.

 

The front ball joints are new, motor runs cool and quite. The car is dead nuts @ 60mph. Only rear end issue sounds to be a bad rear end bushing, but thats no big deal IMO. He has receipts from a local import shop (expensive BMW specialist) and they told him of the rear end issue (so I buy it even more)

 

All windows work, so I am still on the fence. Maybe I will low ball him even harder and see if he bites

 

Thanks for the info guys.

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lol I stand corrected... I'll admit when I'm wrong, lol (Feeling like a dumbass now) I honestly though that the e36 WAS the type of engine, I knew it was a 3 series, just thoguht something else I guess. Sorry Halbert.

He's just mad cause He was told to slow down. ;)

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Is it that good of a deal?!

 

at the price you're saying for the car, its hard to even find some e30's, still 318's. I've had 2 bmw's, if the car runs and is pretty/semi clean, under $2k is a good deal.

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I would be wary of the clunk. Its been touched upon, but those subframes have weak mounting points on the body and they have a tendency to rip out. Just cover thy ass and pinpoint the culprit before you commit. This could be the reason for the price. E30s in the same condition will fetch twice that.
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