V8 Beast Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 So what should I put in my car to keep from being kicked out of every track this year?? I'm going with a Wolfe weld in because of the way they fit. Will a 4 or 5 point be enough to get them off my back if I run mid 10's? If a 4 point is enough I can go chrome moly, if I have to go higher it looks like I'll be running mild steel. I also decided to go with welding in the flat part of the back rather than through the rear speakers above the wheel well... unless someone can give me a good reason not to. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benner Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I'd actually go with the wolfe 6-point weld in myself. $244 compared to $289 for the 6-point set up. I'd personally just get the mild steel and paint it a semi-gloss black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I have the wolfe 5 point with the swing out bar. I have the bolt in. It's a very nice fitting piece thats powder coated. I also have the bars that fit flat not on the wheel wells. I welded mine down in the back, bolted it down in the other 3 points. Remember that if you weld it down you are welding above a plastic gas tank. Not for the faint at heart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I have the wolfe 5 point with the swing out bar. I have the bolt in. It's a very nice fitting piece thats powder coated. I also have the bars that fit flat not on the wheel wells. I welded mine down in the back, bolted it down in the other 3 points. Remember that if you weld it down you are welding above a plastic gas tank. Not for the faint at heart! The gas tank was my biggest concern. If I bolt it in the back I would have to drop the tank, so I will definitley have someone weld it. Whats the safest way to weld it without messing up the tank.. or blowing something up ? BYW, bolting the rest of it and welding the back is a great idea. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 The gas tank was my biggest concern. If I bolt it in the back I would have to drop the tank, so I will definitley have someone weld it. Whats the safest way to weld it without messing up the tank.. or blowing something up ? BYW, bolting the rest of it and welding the back is a great idea. Thanks for the info. It might be hard to get someone to do it for you. In retrospect it was a really stupid thing to do. If I had burned through that sheetmetal and dropped a dingle berry on that tank it would have blown me to hell. I would drop the tank if I was doing it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 It might be hard to get someone to do it for you. In retrospect it was a really stupid thing to do. If I had burned through that sheetmetal and dropped a dingle berry on that tank it would have blown me to hell. I would drop the tank if I was doing it again. If I'm dropping the tank I can just bolt in the entire thing. Anyone want to trade a 12 bolt for a 9inch while I have the car apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokinHawk1647545499 Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 wont be legal for that speed if you bolt it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty2Hotty Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Here ya go Brian. http://images.gmhightechperformance.com/features/0505htp_nastylt1_03_z.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XChris1632X Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Why not just get a bender and make your own? Mine is all done by hand and I had a blast doing it. It's a 6 point and I mig welded it to the floor and Tig welded all of the joints so it looks sexy as well. I didn't drop the tank either, cause I don't burn through. I would just go mild steel also, chrome molly can be more difficult for some people to weld and with a smaller cage like that the differences aren't going to be very dramatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 i just did one in a 3rd gen. with some thru the floor connectors i made. check my myspace page for pics of it. heres some pics half way thru http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/Tonys%203rd%20gen%20f-%20body/?action=view¤t=4d227272.pbw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 I'm going with a Wolfe 6 point that attaches above the wheel well (so I dont have to worry about the gas tank), and swing out bars. 2 questions... Who is going to help me put this thing in??? And how much welding work is needed with the Wolfe??? (I suck at welding big time!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 i can weld it in but some interior removal and grinding on the inside of the car needs done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Brian It only takes a couple hours to strip the seats and carpet out. Strip it down then bolt the drivers seat back in and drive to the shop thats going to weld it in. As long as your not taking the dash out its not to bad a job. Only special tools are the big torx for the seat belts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 I read somewhere that the dash does need to come out Stripping the interior should be easy. Ray did you have to grind anything? Rob shoot me a pm with an estimate of how much it would cost to weld it in. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 do i have to gut the inside? i will need to seated with your helmet on so i can fit it to you to be legal. is this the hold and weld kit? or trim to fit? with a 6 point , the dash dont have to come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Yeah, I was going to have it jig notched so thats its easier to put together. I'll have the inside gutted minus the driver seat. Edit, Your right I was looking at the full cage when I read about the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 mild steel or moly? am i welding the plates to the floor or are you making it a bolt in(ie plates on top and bottom bolted together with the cage welded to it)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted February 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Weld in, and mild steel. I dont think the extra strength of the chromoly will make a big enough difference in this case for me to spend an extra $300 plus for it. Now if someone can prove me wrong I'll get it, but for right now I'm going with the mild steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2k2gt Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 A 6-point is only legal to 10.00 and under 135mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Weld in, and mild steel. I dont think the extra strength of the chromoly will make a big enough difference in this case for me to spend an extra $300 plus for it. Now if someone can prove me wrong I'll get it, but for right now I'm going with the mild steel. chromoly is lighter. and you'd only save about 20-30 lbs.IMO steel is stronger. moly tubing is thinner and lighter. I wouldnt go moly till you go full 10 point or more. then the weight savings would be worth it. A 6-point is only legal to 10.00 and under 135mph. with stock frame rails and floors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Brain, No need to mess with the dash. Gut the interior yourself its easy and will save you$ Rob, I think you will find the fit on the wolfe is outstanding!. Should be an easy installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2k2gt Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 This chart is for reference ONLY and is in no way intended to supercede or replace the rules, regulations or specifications mandated by NHRA, IHRA and/or SFI Specs. This chart may also be incomplete as these specifications are subject to change on a periodic basis. SFI SPECIFICATIONS Mandatory at ET (or quicker) Item SFI Spec 13.99 Drive shaft loop (slicks) 13.99 Helmet (Snell K98+) 13.49 5-pt harness (convertible) 16.1 13.49 Approved rollbar (convertible) 13.49 (IHRA) Drive shaft loop (slicks) 11.49 Drive shaft loop (street tires) 11.49 Approved flywheel & clutch (manual transmission) 1.1, 1.2 11.49 Approved protective jacket 3.2A/1 11.49 Approved roll bar for all vehicles 11.49 Approved 5-pt harness 16.1 11.49 Approved flywheel shield (manual transmission) 6.1, 6.2 11.49 (IHRA) Approved mounted fire extinguisher 11.49 (IHRA) Approved flywheel shield (automatic transmission) 4.1 10.99* Approved roll cage (convertible) 10.99 Approved harmonic balancer 18.1 10.99 Approved aftermarket axles 10.99* Approved transmission shield (automatic transmission) 4.1 10.99 (IHRA) Competition License* Class D 9.99 Approved flexplate & shield (automatic transmission) 29.1, 30.1 9.99 Approved roll cage & window net* 27.1 9.99 Master cutoff switch 9.99 Competition License Class 4, Cat. C 9.99 Chassis Certification 9.99 Approved jacket/pants/neck collar/gloves* 3.2A/5, 3.3, 3.3/1 9.00 (IHRA) Roll cage & window net 8.99 (IHRA) Competition License Class C 8.49 On-board fire system 8.49 to 7.50 Chassis certification 25.4/25.5 (3600#) 7.99 (IHRA) Competition license Class B 7.49 & quicker Chassis certification 25.1E (2800#) 7.50 & slower Chassis certification 25.2 (3200#) 7.49 Competition license Class 3, Cat. C IHRA Pro Stock Competition license Class A 150mph + Parachute required 200 mph + Head & Neck Restraint required * Also required for 135 MPH or faster <--------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 http://nhra.com/tech_specs/ETQuickRef.html and if i could find my 08 nhra rule book. legally all you need is a 5 point roll bar. passenger door bar is not needed. for 10.00 and slower under 135mph with stock frame rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Y2K do you think I'm going to trap over 135 or something? If so I'm flattered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 http://www.wolferacecraft.com/install/fbod/fbodbar.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.