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Borg Warner T5


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Latley I have been noticing that my mustang doesn't like to go into gear as easy as it should, it have bbk adj clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, and an aftermakret shifter and clutch with around 5k miles on all the stuff. Also the tranny ticks very quiet in 5th gear (I know like a time Bomb) and sometimes it can be taken out of gear or even shifted without the clutch, it never pops out of gear or grinds..Do I just need adjust my firewall adjuster or is somehting else wrong?
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Guest 614Streets
I would just double check your cable adjustment make sure your getting full pull on the fork, otherwise your looking at checking input shaft end play for excessive "in out" , general wear and syncro prefailure. Input play is .00 to .004 front to back movement with a dial indicator, Trans out of car.
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post this on the corral-

 

I have a hanlon t5 rebuild kit complete (but for fork end caps and 1 o-ring) which I can get for you if you were interested- I also bought the video.

 

I tore mine all down because I had no 5th gear or reverse only to find that the 5th/reverse lever shaft bolt had backed off about a 1/4"- Unfortunately this was able to be tightened from the outside had I realized this before- retorqued and loctited that @@#@ in there and all has been PERFECT since-

 

When I had it apart I put the new o-ring in, a new 5th/reverse lever just in case (bought in addition to the kit before I tore it down), and the clutch fork pads.

 

probably not related but are using a bbk adjustable cable? What is an adjustable quadrant? Double hook? I would stick with a factory non-adj cable or a maximum motorsports universal which is afactory cable from some undisclosed source- I think it is an sn95 mustang though- made a big difference in pedal pressure/proper engagement as it was no longer so stiff. The adjustable cable the previous owner installed was a complete POS that would stretch frequently and the pedal pressure was unreal with the factory quadrant, the crappy cable, and even when properly re-routed it wasn't much better.

Good Luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...

SHIFTER fork not CLUTCH fork shifter fork is inside the trans and moves the parts around to line up the right gears

 

first adjust the clutch again its easy to do if you adjust it and it still gives you trouble you'll need to have the transmission rebuilt or just replace it with something better than a t-5

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t5 shift forks do not bend-

 

they get hairline cracks and then break.

 

Is there any freeplay in the clutch pedal? Or is there constant pressure all the way up?

 

How did you discover you can shift it without the clutch? BTW mine does that boiling water/ticking sound as well when I drive it for extended periods of time in fifth above 70 mph and my transmission was new when I got the car 3 years ago, I have never powershifted it, and everyone that gets in my car marvels about how good it is- so I would call it normal if its the same sound. Is yours a rhythmic tick or kind of random?

 

Andy,I will take a look at it- when are you available?

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Well, thanks for the fork info, I unhooked the cable from the fork and re tightened it with lock washers and shimed the fork with a grade 8 washer and rebolted everything up car shifts near perfect now, I think I need to adjust my firewall adjuster a tad, as for the ticking its constant in 5th rythmic yes its tick tick tick in 5th all the time...so im happy for now.
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the ticking noise is the plastic faced throwout bearing that comes with most clutches....

 

an all steel bearing is availiable through napa that doesn't make this noise....

 

 

just an fyi for everyone always start at the begining with the simplest fixes first 9 times out of 10 a simple adjusment will fix something without it needing a major repair

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