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Longtubes on a 03 mustang


XChris1632X

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6-8+ hours especially for a first time. Mark the bolt positions on the k-member then drop that (after supporting the engine of course). Disconnect the steering shaft from the rack. A 3/8th impact will make quick work of the header nuts. Just take your time and it should go easy. If the EGR is frozen on the manifold, just disconnect it from the solenoid, it can be worked down then.

 

Caliper bolts- 15mm

Front k-member bolts- 18mm

Rear k-member bolts- 15mm

Header nuts- 13mm

Steering shaft nut- 13mm

Engine mount to k-member nuts- 21mm

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What is the mark on the K-member for? Are they adjustable?

They are adjustable, slightly. I just like to mark the bolt positions with a little line so I don't worry about the alignment.

 

I saw on one of the header tubes that there is a bung, I figured it was just an egr hookup. How difficult/worth it is it to eliminate this?

If it is a male threaded bung, that it EGR. It isn't necessary at all in any performance application. They sell a delete kit, but, I just make my own. Just make a little aluminum plate based off the solenoid/intake contact surface. A little RTV and bolt that in place. For the headers, I cut the EGR tube and remove the stock nut. I then cut and weld a hex nut to the top to seal that off. You could just as easily buy a cap though.

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Will I be alright lifting the motor with a jack and some wood or do I really have to pull that big ass engine hoist out?

I have done it both ways and I prefer using a cherry picker. Will you be doing this on the ground?

 

If you do it with the wood, make sure you position it at the front of the oil pan where it bolts to the timing cover.

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I appreciate all the help, I would rather get it all out now rather than when I am in the middle of it. I will be doing this all by myself so I hope that doesnt make it suck more.

I do all my work by myself, it can make it a little harder at times. I don't think this install is any easier with more people.

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I can either do it over a pit or on the ground. Which is easier?

I like to do the k-member on the ground. I like doing the headers on a lift lol.

 

On the ground would work just fine. Just get the front nice and high, buy some smokes/beer, and have fun.

 

If you run into any problems, feel free to call. I don't know if I would be able to swing over or not, but; I can walk ya through anything on the install.

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i would advise against BBK longtubes for the fact that you can't change the clutch without removing the headers to do so, or at least loosening them all up. It's a pain in the ass to get the k-member up by yourself even with a jack. I would def use a hoist to hold the engine. Make sure you re-use the factory gaskets also or you may have some leaking problems. I've did probally a hundred sets of longtubes on 4.6's.

goodluck.

 

like derek said, 4-5 if you are familiar with the car. a few more hours if you not.

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Can you just plug the header and let the Air tube be open or plug that also. I got them all in and everything, except the o2 sensor wires need extended and the air tube need pluged because the line doesnt fit up with the header. The bung for it is just slightly off with the header that the tube will not go on with too much work involoved.
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The header are already in. Its not my car so I am fine with it, he can just pay me to take them back out when he does a clutch. The motor will be coming out in a year anyways for a complete bottom end swap. Now I just need to figure out this air tube situation. If I was to cap the header off and just leave the air tube open, would the car run like shit? What if I was to cap the air tube off also to where it couldn't suck any air at all?
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