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Newb to Turbo's - Insight Appreciated


TTQ B4U

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Being new to a Turbo Powered car, what insights do you all have for maintenance, care and what not to keep her in good running?

 

What oil types are good?

Change intervals any different?

Is it BS or old school to let it idle prior to shutdown?

What are some areas to watch for possible trouble?

 

Thanks for the insight.

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Being new to a Turbo Powered car, what insights do you all have for maintenance, care and what not to keep her in good running?

 

What oil types are good?

Change intervals any different?

Is it BS or old school to let it idle prior to shutdown?

What are some areas to watch for possible trouble?

 

Thanks for the insight.

 

A good synthetic oil, mobil 1 will do. Change every 3k.

 

Letting the car idle for a good 30 seconds prior to shutdown gives the turbo time to cool and be well lubricated, this will reduce wear on the bearing. This is what a tubo timer does.

 

A couple aftermarket gauges could help you keep an eye on things, maybe an egt gauge (exhaust gas temp), a oil pressure gauge, and a boost gauge.

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Subaru claims no TT required for shutdown because all IHI turbos they use are water cooled also(convection still happens when the car is shut off in the water lines). Not sure if yours is oil and water cooled or not. I don't think you can go wrong using Mobil 1 Syn in any vehicle FI or not. Change the oil often, and drive it. Not much different than your last car.
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Most modern day OEM's are watercooled; believe it or not, there's such thing as 'thermal syphering' that will literally suck the heat into the return side of the cooling system, even when the fluid sits stagnet.

 

Join your make/model's respective forum, check to see if anything got past QA, if not, follow the instructions (the advice in the previous posts may be in there)

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Oh and if you are like me, you WANT then stock turbo to take a shit to make room for a bigger one, makes it much much easier to justify to the wife! :) Fuckin VF39 is still strong in mine. :mad: I just want an SZ55 and a set of injectors a pump and a FMIC with supporting mods and Tune for 400AWHP and TQ. :(
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Join your make/model's respective forum, check to see if anything got past QA, if not, follow the instructions (the advice in the previous posts may be in there)

 

+1

 

Also, my car has an after-run coolant pump which circulates the coolant after you turn the car off if you have driven it hard. If yours has one of those you hardly ever have to let the car run before you shut it off

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Oh and if you are like me, you WANT then stock turbo to take a shit to make room for a bigger one, makes it much much easier to justify to the wife! :) Fuckin VF39 is still strong in mine. :mad: I just want an SZ55 and a set of injectors a pump and a FMIC with supporting mods and Tune for 400AWHP and TQ. :(

 

VF39 is a nice little turbo until the WG cracks.

 

I've herd allot of complaints about the SZ55. I would personally stick to a 20g. But some people seem to like the SZ55.

 

I've got a SB gt14 waiting for me.

 

 

As for idling the car. I still idle my car a little bit if I've been beating on it. My car drinks nothing but full sync. I only use BP93 or Sunoco 94. Make sure when you research you car to find out if it need a Intake and other shit. The WRX / STi don't need upgraded intakes till after 300whp. I'm stock intake down to the paper filter.

 

Avoid MBC's without a tune. It just a bad idea the car can compensate to a extent but over all a good tune > mbc. Or a good tune with a MBC.

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Thanks guys. I'm not beating on her as she's way too new and that's not my style. I'm more a spirited driver but not harsh on the car. My last N/A motors have gone 5-7k between changes of synthetic, so being FI, I figured I'd end up going back to the 3-5k range.

 

I've been letting her idle for a minute or so prior to shutdown too. No big deal as I usually just finish the last song playing and call it a day.

 

She definitely heats up the garage though. Temps inside are a good 15-20 degrees higher than what I normally see in there after parking our cars.

 

What I've researched, the MS3 responds extremely well to an intake. It's a very restrictive stock box and after opening it up, I totally agree. She needs to breath better.

 

Short Shift/Cold Air Intake go on next week as does the window tint :thumbup:

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Nooooo......I am having the rear window and the two small sides ones towards the hach done darker but the four doors are at 50%.

 

With black interiror and a dark rear window, the fronts will appear dark enough. More just to help cool the car and cut the sunlight a bit for the kids in their car seats. They are used to dark tint on the van and then get blasted in my car and cause them to whine a bit more than I need to deal with :o

 

I hope to not see "limo" tint.
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well, then she's really going to have a cold because I'm still getting used to this damn clutch! coming from an auto with tap shift, I'm spoiled. It's been several years since my S2000 and Honda's are darn near automatics. This thing is very picky about it's release point.....but it's also likely part user error as matching rpms is a little more tricky in this car too vs the Honda.

 

I tried several combos for another plate but they are all gone.....VRMPSSH, etc...

 

 

 

When you shift its going to sound like your car in sneezing' date=' My 300zx did that when i put intake on it and i actually had people ask me if my car was sick lol.[/quote']
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Nooooo......I am having the rear window and the two small sides ones towards the hach done darker but the four doors are at 50%.

 

With black interiror and a dark rear window, the fronts will appear dark enough. More just to help cool the car and cut the sunlight a bit for the kids in their car seats. They are used to dark tint on the van and then get blasted in my car and cause them to whine a bit more than I need to deal with :o

 

Just remember that Ohio law is 50% for Driver and Passenger FRONT windows, the back seat windows and beyond can be what ever you want. So you could do 50,35,35 and rear window 35% and be legal.

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All good info so far. FYI, even N/A motors can benefit from a bit of cool down before shutting them off if you've been driving hard. Also, water cooling your turbo DOES NOT mean it's safe. My Supra has both water and oil cooling. Nothing new there. Unless you have a pump that continues to flow oil and/or water, then it needs to ilde before you shutoff. Anywhere from 30sec to 2 or 3 minutes depending.

After your initial break-in, dump the dino oil and go for synthetic.

 

At this point, with no mods, there's really nothing else to worry about that wouldn't be covered in your car manual. When it's time for mods, I'm sure you'll be researching the hell out of it on a reputable site.

 

Any torque steer at this point?

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Thanks. Good to hear. I'm on a couple sites so far. It's the interweb so I have to take some things with a grain of salt. Especially when I don't really know who is full of it and who knows what they are doing on those sites.

 

TS isn't bad. Mind you I'm coming from a FWD V8 GXP though, so wrestling with a bear isn't new

 

All good info so far. FYI, even N/A motors can benefit from a bit of cool down before shutting them off if you've been driving hard. Also, water cooling your turbo DOES NOT mean it's safe. My Supra has both water and oil cooling. Nothing new there. Unless you have a pump that continues to flow oil and/or water, then it needs to ilde before you shutoff. Anywhere from 30sec to 2 or 3 minutes depending.

After your initial break-in, dump the dino oil and go for synthetic.

 

At this point, with no mods, there's really nothing else to worry about that wouldn't be covered in your car manual. When it's time for mods, I'm sure you'll be researching the hell out of it on a reputable site.

 

Any torque steer at this point?

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I was a little surprised to see it didn't have one stock. I think the earlier WRX's had it as an option too. Mazda doesn't even offer it :(

 

I try and keep it under 3k early on. Boost starts at 2500 but starts to become noticable at 3k.

 

Boost gauge is nice just to be able to see better what exactly your car is doing. It makes it easier to stay out of boost before you heat your oil up to temperature too.
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first thing that any turbo car needs is a boost gauge and boost controller

 

Stoned or stupid?

 

 

You don't add boost to any modern car with out proper tuning. Most of the cars have a boost cut anyways.

 

MBC or EBC on a non tuned car = recipe for disaster.

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Stoned or stupid?

 

 

You don't add boost to any modern car with out proper tuning. Most of the cars have a boost cut anyways.

 

MBC or EBC on a non tuned car = recipe for disaster.

 

Again you are soo wrong, you can add a boost controller to just about any factory turbo car and be ok within reason. For instance, putting a boost controller on an Evo or SRT or WRX that comes with about 12-14psi, can easily be turned up to about 18psi without a tune. Considering factory tunes are soo rich anyways, you would be doing yourself a favor turning it up.

 

God I would never let you touch/tune my car!

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