Jump to content

And so it begins


koolrayz

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 305
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Removed
I hadnt heard about that. Hopefully it will be OK. Were did you see these failures?

 

Thanks for all the kind words. the car has a long way to go. Its hard having the car so far away I cant work on all the things that I will still have to do after Ron is done.

 

5.0 guys have the same issue with 347 strokers, the pin being in the oil ring dont give no support there and cause's the rings to fail. does your oil ring have a thick spacer and goes in the bottom of the oil ring groove to help support the oil ring?

might want to look into it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5.0 guys have the same issue with 347 strokers, the pin being in the oil ring dont give no support there and cause's the rings to fail. does your oil ring have a thick spacer and goes in the bottom of the oil ring groove to help support the oil ring?

might want to look into it.

All my other pistons were the same way. The bottom extra "floor" ring also has two little dimples that have to go down to keep it registered.

 

 

So how long will it take to change the spark plugs on your new setup?.... Will you have to remove the hot piping?..

It doesnt look it but plug access is no worse that before. Most are actualy easier, 1 is a little tougher. the few pictures I have posted make it look alot tougher than it is. I do have to do the coil relocation mod.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ray what are you trying to run in this car? 8's?

 

what it seems like to me!

 

should be able to do it, if he can get it to stick!

 

Weight will be my biggest issue and I wont have any time or money to get rid of it.

The car wont be any heavier than it was last year and it cut mid 1.3 60's

The new powerglide should help tame it down. The 4L60's 3.06 first gear is to violent in a high power application and a 2.48 in the 4L80 and regular turbo 400 isnt that much better. I was torn between the 210 geared turbo 400 and the powerglide. Weigh of the transmission, the one piece sfi case and bell housing and the fact a turbo likes to be loaded is why I went with the glide.

As far as an ET I feel confident it will be able to squeeze out a 10.50

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Weight will be my biggest issue and I wont have any time or money to get rid of it.

The car wont be any heavier than it was last year and it cut mid 1.3 60's

The new powerglide should help tame it down. The 4L60's 3.06 first gear is to violent in a high power application and a 2.48 in the 4L80 and regular turbo 400 isnt that much better. I was torn between the 210 geared turbo 400 and the powerglide. Weigh of the transmission, the one piece sfi case and bell housing and the fact a turbo likes to be loaded is why I went with the glide.

As far as an ET I feel confident it will be able to squeeze out a 9.50

 

I fixed it for you:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are those the new *turbo* pistons wesico just recently produced? If there is a lot of skepticism about that piston, with the oil ring land giving way on many documented occasion. There is too much stress in in that area with out enough mass, with the change in wrist pin location from what I have read. On our latest LSX 1000k hp build here at the shop i went away from these pistons for said reasons. I hope you have no issue with them!

 

Ron is doing a nice job of fabrication on the car!

 

Uh, These are the forgings that have been running successfully since 2002 in the highest horsepower LS cars without issue. Wiseco has been producing these parts for the LS market longer than about anyone except Lunati (and they now sell our pistons exclusively as well). Wiseco was the first with a 2.250 pin length forging and they've been copied (sorta kinda) by about 4 other manufacturers already. Wiseco has the largest selection of LS stocking pistons and they've got a lot of advanced features not found on any other brand. Coatings, LS multifit pockets, offset pins, Nitride/Napier rings, etc. Many of these features are being copied by others as we speak.

 

Let me get straight to the point. There hasn't been one documented issue with the forging breaking where you're speaking of. Wristpins should be swapped to the thicker tool steel ones at about 1000whp, but we've had our standard pins run to 1100whp without issue. With Nitrous, I favor going to tool steel pins with a 300 shot (even if it's only a 800whp engine) due to the pressure spike. If you favor full round pistons, that's cool..but the notch in the pin boss to clear the reluctor ring is the number one cause of failures in the pin boss area of our competitors. If you have any pistons that have come apart PERSONALLY, you need to shoot me an email at bnutter@wiseco.com We'd be happy to look at them.

 

Now here's what I can tell you is fact. Most of the 7 seconds cars out there are running Wiseco's. Many of the top turbo engine builders have switched to Wiseco from other brands because our pistons can run 2 and 3 times as many runs as other brands. Mike Brown, LMR, Steve Turley, Paul Majors and many others run them in their 7 second cars. Kurt Urban, Billy Briggs, ERL, HK enterprises, Texas Speed, LME, Vette Doctors, and host of of other top 20 LS engine builders run them nearly exclusively in their engines. Feel free to email any of them and let them know I asked them to speak to you frankly about who makes the best pistons. They won't post it on the internet, but they'll tell you on the phone.

 

Wiseco is the number one piston maker on the ongoing ls1tech poll. 55 percent choose Wiseco and the next brand down is roughly at 35%...hardly anyone else on the map. These are guys that know these engine and have run everyones parts. GMHP also demanded our parts for their upcoming crate engines.

 

As I said before, if you're being fed this info from one of out competitors, that's common. They've got to do something to knock us down because their parts sure as hell don't. There are some parts that "appear" to be like ours, but there are some very big differences from "x" forgings compared to our strutted parts where the struts angle "in" to the skirt from the pin towers. We bring the parts into our lab all the time to check their status as horsepower goes up. They've been amazingly crack free for the power run through them.

 

I appreciate you offering Ray advice, but the pistons he's running are the best. Hopefully you'll change your mind about our parts when you see his beast run. You're invited to email me at bnutter@wiseco.com and I'd be happy to bring you up to speed on our latest innovations. Regards, Brian Nutter -Wiseco Automotive

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Uh, These are the forgings that have been running successfully since 2002 in the highest horsepower LS cars without issue. Wiseco has been producing these parts for the LS market longer than about anyone except Lunati (and they now sell our pistons exclusively as well). Wiseco was the first with a 2.250 pin length forging and they've been copied (sorta kinda) by about 4 other manufacturers already. Wiseco has the largest selection of LS stocking pistons and they've got a lot of advanced features not found on any other brand. Coatings, LS multifit pockets, offset pins, Nitride/Napier rings, etc. Many of these features are being copied by others as we speak.

 

Let me get straight to the point. There hasn't been one documented issue with the forging breaking where you're speaking of. Wristpins should be swapped to the thicker tool steel ones at about 1000whp, but we've had our standard pins run to 1100whp without issue. With Nitrous, I favor going to tool steel pins with a 300 shot (even if it's only a 800whp engine) due to the pressure spike. If you favor full round pistons, that's cool..but the notch in the pin boss to clear the reluctor ring is the number one cause of failures in the pin boss area of our competitors. If you have any pistons that have come apart PERSONALLY, you need to shoot me an email at bnutter@wiseco.com We'd be happy to look at them.

 

Now here's what I can tell you is fact. Most of the 7 seconds cars out there are running Wiseco's. Many of the top turbo engine builders have switched to Wiseco from other brands because our pistons can run 2 and 3 times as many runs as other brands. Mike Brown, LMR, Steve Turley, Paul Majors and many others run them in their 7 second cars. Kurt Urban, Billy Briggs, ERL, HK enterprises, Texas Speed, LME, Vette Doctors, and host of of other top 20 LS engine builders run them nearly exclusively in their engines. Feel free to email any of them and let them know I asked them to speak to you frankly about who makes the best pistons. They won't post it on the internet, but they'll tell you on the phone.

 

Wiseco is the number one piston maker on the ongoing ls1tech poll. 55 percent choose Wiseco and the next brand down is roughly at 35%...hardly anyone else on the map. These are guys that know these engine and have run everyones parts. GMHP also demanded our parts for their upcoming crate engines.

 

As I said before, if you're being fed this info from one of out competitors, that's common. They've got to do something to knock us down because their parts sure as hell don't. There are some parts that "appear" to be like ours, but there are some very big differences from "x" forgings compared to our strutted parts where the struts angle "in" to the skirt from the pin towers. We bring the parts into our lab all the time to check their status as horsepower goes up. They've been amazingly crack free for the power run through them.

 

I appreciate you offering Ray advice, but the pistons he's running are the best. Hopefully you'll change your mind about our parts when you see his beast run. You're invited to email me at bnutter@wiseco.com and I'd be happy to bring you up to speed on our latest innovations. Regards, Brian Nutter -Wiseco Automotive

 

Nice professional and detailed reply. Plus rep to you for that.

 

Hopefully you and Brandon can work together to iron all of this out. They have their hands in a good number of lsx builds on this board. Partnering together (if possible) could be a good thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the compliment. I always try to work things out. If we have a problem, we've got to fix it...and sometimes we do...but not on LS forgings. we're well over 2k crank horse and moving up with every new engine. With the recent auxillary piston squirters coming out for the blocks, I think we're going to go a while yet on the present design.

 

As a "for instance", I've got a import customer now making 287hp per cylinder and his pistons are starting to crack after quite a few runs....turns out that the connecting rod small end width is incorrect and the pistons could have gone quite a bit longer with the right rod. Because other people are running this same combination and may not call us when they have an issue, we're designing a new narrow boss spacing version of the forging that keeps the pin in shear, rather than allowing it to flex...which is where the problems start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my junk back from the machine shop

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04496.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04497.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04498.jpg

Started assembling the heads first. installed the new valve seats. Measured and shimmed the valve springs. Over 200 psi spring pressure on the seat.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04499.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04500.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04501.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04502.jpg

took the mains off and prepped it for testing the bearing clearance with platigage

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04504.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04503.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04505.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04507.jpg

checked runout on the reluctor ring and end play on the crank

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04506.jpg

Assembled the pistons

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04509.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04511.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04510.jpg

Filed the ring set, then installed them on the pistons. My fingers hurt, that is tedious work

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04513.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04512.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04515.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04516.jpg

Took the crank back out. I need to clean and brush the oil passages and start with final assembly.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC04514.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't mind telling, where did you set the ring gap at? How did the oil clearance measure?

I went with the ring manufacture recomendation .024 on the top. on the second I went with a heavy .026.

the mains are .0023 to .0025 with std bearings

The rods were the same but I had to mix bearings using a standard on one side and a +.001 on the other

 

Looking forward to doing the same thing very soon. Looks good, big dish to those pistons. i might have missed it, but what compresion will you end up with? How long did the maching shop have your stuff?

the pistons are -28cc, 9.01 compression. took about three weeks after I got the pistons there. There was alot of work on the heads, he did some touch up welding and the valve job.

I checked the pattern with a marker and lapping compound and they seat great.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Been busy with other things the last couple weeks. Removed fuel tank and found the rear wheel well cover had over an inch of rubber.

Started glassing my hood in, I had to clearance it for the new intake elbow.

Modified the E-brake to actuate the parachute.

I have to cut the hole in the rear bumper cover paint the parachute mount then I can reinstal the bumper cover and atach the cable in the rear.

I also modified the shifter so it will lock out neutral and is set up for the 2 speed trans. the stock shifter and E-brake parachute will give the interior a stock appearance.

 

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC05405.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC05403.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC05419.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/DSC05410.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...