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Blackbird died!


Unk Greg
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Yes I understand your thoughts but the problem may occure when checking for a spark the ecm gets directly grounded i.e. screwdriver coming into contact with engine and allowing no spark at all, it is this action that may cause damage to the ecm.

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Greg........Like I said above, make sure your battery is good. Charge or replace. If battery is going bad, you may need to keep on power source while you do this, as you'll be doing a lot of cranking. If you use jumper cables, make sure the cage is turned off/not running.

If bike is still turning over, but won't fire.....Lift tank & remove airbox. Spray the snot out of the carb stacks with cleaner or starting fluid, then try starting. I had to repeat this for 5-10 minutes, and was just about to give up.....when she fired & started sputtering. Poured a little gas down the stacks next so she could run long enough to warm up & start normally after I hurriedly attached gas/vacuum lines & restarted again.

Once you get her purrin', let her run for awhile so those carbon deposits can burn off the plugs

Edited by Fonzie
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If the block is properly grounded, then JRMiii is right, there should be no real difference. The 'spark' is headed to ground across the gap anyway, this is just getting it there through a different path. Electrons flow, they don't care how they get there.

If you're trying to get technical, the only issue I could see is with the return currents. Electrons are funny little things, and they try their hardest to travel in a loop of least resistance, but if given an option, they also travel along the parallel path they were sent in. This is kind of a funky law, and it usually only applies to PCB boards, but depending on how your wiring harness is set up, there are many ground wires and it may not tend to travel along the one you'd think. The whole point of this is to say that if the return currents choose to travel from the block (headed back to the battery) and through the same ground lines as the ECU, then you'll get big ground bouncing in the ECU, and if it's big enough, it could cause it to "see" bigger voltages than it could handle.

Off the top of my head, I'd say the odds of that are low, but that's the only thing I could think of that would blow the ECU.

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Thanks one and all for all the input. I'll keep picking at it until it works. Trying it all. I found a fuse box and one labeled start. checked it and it was good. Fonz, battery, I think it's good, but will pull the one outa "red" and see if that works. AND see if the black one works in the red. Thanks for all the suggestions. I get it eventually And report back what it was!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Itz alive! SO it turned out to be a fuel problem. Way up under the tank, At the front, was a valve of some sort on the intake (don'tcha love all that technical talk?). Best analogy given to me it was like a shut off valve and it, just shut off. $175 for new part.

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Petcock up under the tank forward? It was way up there...and it did shut fuel off. But it wasn't like it was anything a skinny lil' hand could reach. Bike is back on road and now I gotta clean it!

The test ride, was out to USR62 to SR206 to SR715 and Mohawk Dam and back down thru Warsaw to pick up SR60. Fair amount of gravel and mud pulled out on road from farmers and gravel pit activity. Didn't see the guy bar-b-Q'ing the pork on SR36.

One tank full gone and looks like a new front tire for tomorrow too.

Sorry Fonzie, no pics.

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