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Here's what I am getting Monday...


cinergi
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-Drilled Holes In Sheet Metal(Hidden Beneath Inside Door Covers/Trim/Etc.) For:

>All 4 Doors

>Trunk Supports

(Just Enough To Lighten The Car Without Losing Structural Ridgidity)

 

Can someone explain this to me? Doesn't seem like a very effective method of weight reduction.....

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MBC on that setup with out a custom tune = FTL.

 

If that's not a atleast a 50/50 hyrbid or full recirc yank it off.

 

Also start saving for a trannny if thats a 02 or early year 03.

 

 

 

Why would you drill holes when a used vf39 can be had for 250$.... Drill holes make lighter vs ummm 60 more whp...

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Just playing devil's advocate here, but I'd be interested (read: concerned) about the accurate placement and size of the weight reduction "holes" in panels. I wouldn't want something buckling during an accident that is supposed to be more rigid to save your life.
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Just playing devil's advocate here, but I'd be interested (read: concerned) about the accurate placement and size of the weight reduction "holes" in panels. I wouldn't want something buckling during an accident that is supposed to be more rigid to save your life.

 

I don't think that would be an issue with a Subaru, I think they have rebar basically reinforcing everything. I could be wrong though.

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-WEIGHT REDUCTION-

-Rear Seat Belts Removed

 

This made me LOL. Is that a pound he saved? Taking a dump > Belts

 

Seriously lol. He'd probably reduce more weight by taking his shoes off before he gets in the car.

 

At first I was thinking it's a good trade. Both cars are nice, but the Subaru being newer and less miles was a plus. Although now I'm having second thoughts after reading further and seeing this "weight reduction" bullshit, and manual boost controller? It just seems kinda sketchy.

 

Whatever you do, make sure you investigate the car THOROUGHLY and ask the owner a lot of questions before you trade.

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I asked about the BOV and how he had it set... this is the response I got:

 

"glad to answer any of your questions. your answer to the boost controller question is just a simple matter of time.Originally my uncle intended to have WAY more done than expected. Xccelleration said that he planned on coming back with the WRX to even further his plans up the horsepower chain. But time i guess had a different idea because my uncle moves around alot because of his job. And because Xccelleration started the build on it in 2002(when it first came out) there were no EBC's on the market just yet for the new car. So they put the manuel BC in and used the boost gauge in reference to the pressure reading and set it just a bit higher. In reference to the clogged cats they wanted to eliminate any concern about catylytic converters clogging because of the somewhat rich state between shifts(It does sometimes backfire between shifts like your mr2). So they took out the cats and supplemented it with high flow version that was still street legal. Im not sure why Xccelleration says no CEL's on there website. The only two that ever pops up is the p420 code which is"Catylitic converter effeciancy below threshold". It only shows up on long trips. But this is only due to the fact that it has the one high flow cat. It had 3 on it stock. I have invested in a scan tool and whenever it rarely pops up, i just delete it. A quick trip to any Tune shop can set the ECU to know the codes. The other is because It has an extremely light flywheel and upon contacting Xccelleration they stated that the car sometimes throws false engine misfire codes because of it. Everything runs fine but again, i just take out my scan tool and delete it when it rarely shows up. If your that concerned about it i believe that the TurboXS ECU on the car has the proper ability to take care of the lights. The car was set at 15psi when you were driving it. The boost comes on fully at 3000k under load. The reason for this is the piping diameter used on the WRX is large. 3inch intake, 4inch downpupe, 3inch exhaust, these mods were meant for higher top end. The BOV i have on the car is set to full atmospheric but its is a GFB Hybrid BOV ver.1. It was there first model for that type of design. They have many updated hybrids now. But you can set the one i have on the car between Full atmosphere, 50% Atm.50% Rec., and Full Rec."

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If the MR2 is your toy and you are replacing it with the Subaru as your toy then I say downgrade. If you drove the MR2 daily and were looking to get something newer, it is obviously a more practical daily. I would love to have a Subaru, but to replace my MR2 as a daily and to put the MR2 away in the winter.

 

I have never driven a turbo MR2, but from what I have heard they are an absolute blast. I plan on getting one sometime when the time is appropriate and school is not a priority.

 

Of course I am biased since I own one, but we work on such a HUGE variety of cars at the shop that I have driven a shit ton of different vehicles. There are not many that I would replace the MR2 with as a toy.

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