B&M Trick Shift

[xtremef4i]

I have a car related question. Has anyone ever used (or have knowlegde of) B&M trick shift automatic tranny fluid in their car before? I want my car to shift firmer without having to take the valve body apart and put in heavier springs and servos or having to spend hundreds of dollars on a performance programmer that will make it shift harder.

I was thinking about dropping the tranny pan, putting in a new filter and replacing the 5-6 quarts or so of fluid that I drained from the pan with the Trick Shift fluid. Would this improve to firmer shifts by only replacing what I drain from the pan rather than replacing the fluid in the whole system, which is probably 10-15 quarts?

I am hoping at least a few people have experimented with this before.

[Dweezel]

First and formost what trans are we talking about here? GM's TH400 you could run freakin rhino piss in and it'll be fine, fords require the heavier Type F fluid, and Chryslers, especially the newer ones, you run EXACTLY what they say or else.

Basicly what B&M's trick shift is is Fords Type F. It's a heavier fluid to it makes transmissions shift firmer, which is actually better for the clutches, I'd also reccomend if you don't already have one, an aux trans cooler after the radiator. All the cooler in the radiator does is warm the fluid, it's actually warmer than is best for the trans after it's cooled.

The best and correct way to do it is a new valve body, second would be a shift kit. If it's a newer computer controlled jobbie a reflash will up the line pressure, creating more heat, here's where the aux cooler comes in, but will give firmer shifts. And if you do ha e a computer controlled trans you should use the reccommended fluid or risk trans damage. If you do run it and it is safe, it'll shift firmer for a while but eventually the computer will adjust and compensate by increasing the engage times, and wearing out the clutch packs sooner. Hope that helps

[xtremef4i]

First and formost what trans are we talking about here? GM's TH400 you could run freakin rhino piss in and it'll be fine, fords require the heavier Type F fluid, and Chryslers, especially the newer ones, you run EXACTLY what they say or else.

Basicly what B&M's trick shift is is Fords Type F. It's a heavier fluid to it makes transmissions shift firmer, which is actually better for the clutches, I'd also reccomend if you don't already have one, an aux trans cooler after the radiator. All the cooler in the radiator does is warm the fluid, it's actually warmer than is best for the trans after it's cooled.

The best and correct way to do it is a new valve body, second would be a shift kit. If it's a newer computer controlled jobbie a reflash will up the line pressure, creating more heat, here's where the aux cooler comes in, but will give firmer shifts. And if you do ha e a computer controlled trans you should use the reccommended fluid or risk trans damage. If you do run it and it is safe, it'll shift firmer for a while but eventually the computer will adjust and compensate by increasing the engage times, and wearing out the clutch packs sooner. Hope that helps

Thanks Dweezel. Good info. Im not sure what tranny it is but it is a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT. Not a high performance vehicle, but sporty and has decent performanve for a v6 car. I know a valve body and shift kit is the best way to do it but I was looking for a cheaper/easier alternative to firm up the shifts. So since I have a newer vehicle and I am sure the tranny is controlled by the computer, will swapping fluid be pointless? I dont want to damage the tranny in the process. From your explanation, it sounds like I probably should leave it alone or save up for improvements to the valve body. If it will be ok, would running the ford type F be better or cheaper than the trick shift?

[Dweezel]

Eh it's really kinda pointless. The computer expects certain time allotments between shifts, this is how they make the car shift smothly, and not jar you during shifts. If it's shifting too fast, it will adjust certain parameters to reaquire those shift times. This is when it increases the shift times, which esencially slips the clutches more, causing more wear and tear on the clutch packs. The fluid will work in there, if it's one thing GM gets right consistantly it's transmissions. It will firm it up by expect it to get back to normal within a few weeks.

[Casper]

Eh it's really kinda pointless. The computer expects certain time allotments between shifts, this is how they make the car shift smothly, and not jar you during shifts. If it's shifting too fast, it will adjust certain parameters to reaquire those shift times. This is when it increases the shift times, which esencially slips the clutches more, causing more wear and tear on the clutch packs. The fluid will work in there, if it's one thing GM gets right consistantly it's transmissions. It will firm it up by expect it to get back to normal within a few weeks.

Agreed.

That's a 4L60E transmission, right?

You could always use a B&M Shift Plus.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BMM-70380&view=1&N=700+150+

[xtremef4i]

It will firm it up by expect it to get back to normal within a few weeks.

I would have never thought about the computer catching onto the shift times. I guess its like when people put those little resistors in their IAT sensors to make the computer think colder air is comming in the intake. The computer eventually catches on to that mod and corrects itself.

Agreed.

That's a 4L60E transmission, right?

You could always use a B&M Shift Plus.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BMM-70380&view=1&N=700+150+

I believe the 4L60E is correct. I have seen enought of them when I used to work at a car shop but forgot the number. Thanks for the link. I'm going to check it out right now.

[xtremef4i]

OK I got done looking at the different B&M kits for the 4L60E. They make a shift kit and trans pack for the 4L60E and the electric shift kit Shift Plus for the 4L60E.

The shift kit and trans pack lists up to a 2001 and the shift plus lists up to a 98. Looks like I will have to call tech at B&M to figure out which one I need

[Dweezel]

It might not make a difference, all the internals are the same I believe, but you have a 4T60E. 4(number of speeds) T/L(Transverse for FWD or Longitude for RWD) 60(duty rating) E(Control method, Electronic)

That's how GM Id's their transmissions.

The shift plus up to 98 is a vacuum modulator, they were mechanically controlled all the electronics did was select the gear, they had no other real control over the trans, after that their Electronically controlled and the computer controls everything from gear changes to TC lockup speed and line pressure.

Edited January 21, 2009 by Dweezel

[xtremef4i]

Thanks Dweezel. Your knowledge has been a great help. Its a good thing I asked all this before ordering anything. Looks like I'll have to contact B&M to see if they make anything for the car. A buddy of mine told me to get a computer program from DHP I think it was. its a couple hundred bucks but worth it I guess by firming up the shifts, adjusting the fuel and ignition curves for better performance and improving mileage. This might be the way to go even though I didnt want to go the Computer tune route.