Jump to content

Home Audio Experts...Help!


Sully

Recommended Posts

I have had a TEAC AG-D9100 receiver for several years. It is finally starting to die a very slow and painful (for me) death. The digital audio inputs started flaking out last week and now they are dead. So, it is time for a new receiver.

 

I want something that will power my speakers with ease.

 

My speaker configuration is as follows:

 

KLH center speaker (don't know the specs, but it's pretty nice)

A pair of Klipsch F-3 floorstanding speakers up front (power handling 150 w (600 w peak))

A pair of Klipsch B-2 bookshelf speakers in back (power handling75 w (300 w peak))

 

It would be nice if it has HDMI connectors. I would like to keep it under $400. What would you suggest I get?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a pretty nasty Pioneer from Best Buy for about that amount. It has HDMI up convert..Model # not on me now. I'm running 10 speakers and 2 subs off it. Wait...10 speakers...I got a 2nd receiver Onkyo running lows.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always been a fan of Onkyo stuff for anyone not going with separates (processor, amp or amps). I have auditioned and owned several and they always seem to have a better sound than others in the same price range. I suspect they use a very high quality DAC. Harmon Kardon is known for using top quality DACs also, which attributes their reputation of great clarity.

 

Onkyo (and HK for that matter) sometimes runs a little low on their claimed wattage compared to other brands, but I think alot of that is what a friend of mine calls "Sony Watts" (optimistically overrated) whereas these will typically do rated power across all channels at once (underrated basically).

Edited by twistedfocus
Spellin'
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paying for the name...dont fall for it. My Pioneer gives my shit more than they can take and my house feels like it's about to rumble down...mega BASS!!

 

To clarify, the intent of my prior post is not to say Sony or others aren't of good quality, just not my personal first choice in mid-range priced units.

 

The most important thing you can keep in mind when shopping for any home theater stuff is "how does it sound", followed by features and output. Try to audition everything you can because the sound can often vary a lot more than specs on paper would lead you to believe. It's a little harder to find stores where you can audition several receivers (most just have one setup to allow auditioning of speakers) Also, more wattage doesn't necessarily make any one receiver a better choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just found the specs of the HK AVR-350.

 

Stereo Mode

Continuous Average Power (FTC) per Channel - 70 Watts per channel, 20Hz – 20kHz, @ <0.07% THD, both channels driven into 8 ohms

 

Seven-Channel Surround Modes, Power per Individual Channel, All Channels Operating at Full Power:

Front L & R Channels:55 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms

Center Channel: 55 Watts @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms

Surround Channels (L & R Side, L & R Back): 55 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms

 

 

 

These are the specs of my TEAC:

 

Output Power (Front): F.T.C. Rating: 130 watts RMS per channels driven into 8 ohms from 20 Hz to 20 kHz

 

RMS Power (40 Hz - 20 kHz):

130 watts/8 ohms, 0.09%

 

Surround Output Power (0.5 % THD, 1kHz, 8ohms):

100 + 100 watts (Front)

100 watts (Center)

100 + 100 watts (Rear)

 

 

The HK seems kinda weak compared to my TEAC. Am I right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting...Just found this info on Klipsch's website:

 

While Klipsch speakers are highly efficient and don't need a whole lot of power to drive them, you still need to purchase an amplifier/receiver that's relevant to the system you choose. After all, one of the most common causes of speaker damage is not having the right electronics to support it.

 

A good rule of thumb when trying to pair your speakers up with the right amplifier is to buy at least as much power as your speakers are rated to handle. For example, if a speaker is rated at 75 watts maximum power, then you should buy an amplifier that can deliver at least 75 watts per channel. However, you don't need to limit yourself. You can buy a 100-watt per channel amplifier for a 75-watt speaker because more speaker failure occurs from being under powered rather than over powered. It is safer to go slightly higher with your amplifier wattage because you'll never be in danger of clipping.

 

When an amplifier is expected to deliver more current to a speaker than it's capable of doing, clipping occurs. When an amplifier clips, it literally cuts off the tops and bottoms of the sound waveforms that it's trying to produce. This, in turn, sends a lot of distortion into your speakers, which is bad. Distortion puts a lot of stress on your speakers, typically the tweeter, and will eventually cause them to fail. In fact, your speakers will fail before your amplifier does.

 

 

So, according to that, I need to find a receiver that delivers at least 150w per channel up front and 75w per channel to the rear. Ugh, this is gonna cost more than I expected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Harmon Kardon, my buddy has one and it is AMAZING.

 

I too have a Harmon Kardon. I actually bought mine through their site on ebay. They sell their refurbished stuff with a 1 year (IIRC) warranty. I forget which model I have, but its been working great for 3 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...