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1993 Integra GS Build


darkstarsinner

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In my case a mild port job and set of cams I can see 500+ the bottomend might not like it but it can be done

 

I've got Supertech Nitride coated valves +.5 mm, dual valve springs, reatiners and am getting a 3 angle valve job mild port and polish and some stage 2 NA cams for the time being. Gonna run it NA for a year or so untill I can afford the turbo kit.

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I've got Supertech Nitride coated valves +.5 mm, dual valve springs, reatiners and am getting a 3 angle valve job mild port and polish and some stage 2 NA cams for the time being. Gonna run it NA for a year or so untill I can afford the turbo kit.

 

 

 

You can search other forums and get a nice turbo kit for under 1000 but buy a good turbo new

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In my case a mild port job and set of cams I can see 500+ the bottomend might not like it but it can be done

 

Good luck with that. Don't see many LS headed cars in the 500whp range. Now if your going LS/Vtec then its a different story, your a lot braver then me. No way in hell would I test stock internals to 500hp but thats just me. Not saying it cant be done, just saying you better have a hell of a tuner and say your prayers that it holds lol.

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Good luck with that. Don't see many LS headed cars in the 500whp range. Now if your going LS/Vtec then its a different story, your a lot braver then me. No way in hell would I test stock internals to 500hp but thats just me. Not saying it cant be done, just saying you better have a hell of a tuner and say your prayers that it holds lol.

 

Who said I had stock internals? lol

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I hope so too. I guess part of the reason for going full-race is that I have a bit of a relationship with them now. After purchasing a few parts I now know that their customer service is rediculously awesome.

 

 

Had a couple guys come quote the paint job and body work today. lol, we'll see what they say. I'll probably just take to the real shop. The kid does good work don't get me wrong, but the moment I said "Candy Apple" Both looked a little worried. We'll see. Ordered some new wheel bearings today along with my extended studs, front lower control arm bushings, rack and pinion bushings, shifter bushings, and Rear trailing arms bushings (again, they canceled my last order because they were out of stock but didn't know till the wife checked her e-mail). Soon she will be off of the jack stands and under a cover.

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  • 1 month later...

Well today I flushed out the cut spot welds from the old brackets on the firewall, sprayed some pimer on the area to keep it from rusting.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/1018091942a.jpg

 

 

 

Finished gutting the interior. I plan on "Plastic Welding" some of the cracked plastic pieces and painting them with a color maytched interior paint. Not feeling the two-tone thing anymore. Everythin inside is ready for paint. Thinking about doing a few interior upgrades as I put it back together.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/1018091940.jpg

 

 

And removed the P/S pinion from the rack. Cleaned the rack up and marked which holes to keep so that the rest can be welded. Once that's done I am going to repaint it with a High temp Enamel.

 

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/1018092111.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

EDIT: The Helms Manual can be downloaded here: http://rapidshare.com/files/397131066/Ab0VE.Honda_Integra_93_Service_Manual.zip.html

 

If at some point you are unable to download this file, please contact me and I will re-upload it.

 

Begin Thread:

 

Okay so the idea of a typical wire tuck is simple. You cut a few wires, re-run some others, make sure everything is nice and hidden and that's it. But what if you have to seriously hide those wires? Or if your old harness was cut and spliced so many times it's just a clusterfuk plane and simple? You rebuild it. Eliminating what's not needed and make proper extensions where they have to be.

 

 

 

Because I have eliminated the ABS, Power Steering, Automatic seatbelts and a few other odds and ends along with needing to tuck the back half other cargo areas wiring, I figured it was time for a rebuild. So I'm going to take you through the process of the rebuild.

 

 

 

First a pic of a FEW of the required tools...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012022.jpg

 

 

 

Now the important thing to keep in mind is to bundle and mark each corresponding section of wiring as you remove them. This will help you a lot in the long run so that you're not looking at a huge mess of tangled wires.

 

This is what it will look like if you don't...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012005.jpg

 

 

 

Fortunately I did as such. This will allow me to sort through everything as needed, and to help with the elimination of the no longer needed wires.

 

Front harness...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08013757.jpg

 

 

Drivers side and passengers side (connected to rear harness and contains the system wiring for your power windows and locks is you have them)...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012653.jpg

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012643.jpg

 

 

20100608:

 

Rear harness deloomed. I left a few sections of the harness in tact to help prevent everything from becoming tangled. It is also helpful so that it is easier to navigate the harness to find plugs, and to give an idea of where the section was originally placed.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08220015.jpg

 

 

Not wanting to wait for tomorrow I busted out the downloaded Helms. I taped off all of the plugs on the rear harness that are being deleted. All in all there are about 14 plugs totaling about 80 or so wires.

 

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09020718.jpg

 

A reason for leaving some of the factory tape in tact. Not only does it help in keep the original shape of the harness for navigation, but it comes in handy while pulling cut wires. In some cases plugs are connected to more the one other plug, or some of their wires are spliced together. It is very important to make sure you do not pull wires for plugs you intend to keep so you need to pay attention. After cutting certain plugs off all you need to do is tug on that color wire from the other side of the tape. Once you see the same color wire move it's easy to just pull it all the way through. All the while keep all the other wires where they are supposed to be.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09140912.jpg

 

Here is what I have pulled from the rear harness so far. There will be a lot more to come. Since I am changing the wiring layout I'll need to shorten quite a few wires, but I'll cover that a little later. These two bundles alone weigh about 6-8 lbs. Overall I estimate to pull about 15 lbs. of wire from the rear harness.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09144741.jpg

 

These will be your best friends during a wiring project like this. Inexpensive and easy to get a hold of. They work great for depinning and getting into hard to reach places. Both are two different sizes.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201740.jpg

 

Some fruits of the labor. This little pile of pins is only from the plugs that were left on the harness. There are plenty more on the wires cut out. I'm feeling a bit lazy so I'm just going to leave those ones in until I need them.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201657.jpg

 

The rear harness bundled up and ready to be mocked up and shortened. I say shortened right off the bat because the new route of the wiring will require way less to be used. Primarily between the two door grommets. Very few, if any, will need to be extended for the section of harness that will run to the taillights.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201709.jpg

 

An overall pic of everything from the rear harness minus the two pounds of electrical tape and one pound of plastic.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201647.jpg

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Wait did you just put Trusty and Helms manual in the same sentence, uh oh your wirings gonna be all fuckered up. Lmfao j/k, but seriously those books suck dick. I have one for a EF chassis that has the firing order wrong lol

 

Are you using the Helms or the Haynes? The Haynes in my experience are the ones always fucked up. The Helms was actually pretty direct, and a lot of the plugs I already knew matched up with the diagrams. But for the Integras sake let's hope its accurate. If this harness fails it's getting stripped and rigged with a universal. Which means track use only.

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  • 5 months later...

Nice build so Far. also Josh Helms manuals are factory honda manuals haynes are auto zone crap.

 

Link to all helms manuals from trusty Honda Tech.

http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/

 

Also read a while back about a dispute about oem equipment and boost on a LS. first i would like to point out we are talking about an LS $200 for a new long block if it blows.

Now hows about a good tune and 505whp sound in 1.

http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.php?t=2875

505whp 356wtq

Stock bottom end, ported head with our regrind cams, 20G with ebay tubular manifold

@21 PSI on Q16.

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