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1993 Integra GS Build


darkstarsinner

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Ok let me clean this damn thread up of all the mis-information being tossed out there.

 

The only difference between the 90-93 Integra motors and 94-01 LS motors is not the Head, its the Intake Manifold design and ECU tuning being a little more agressive. Thus the reason for the 10hp difference. Its not the cams like many people want to belive, I have debunked that myth about 10k times on different forums, look up the part numbers they are the exact same part number for 90-91 as they are for 92-01. They also share the same exact head and cams as the B20 unless your lucky enough to get a P8R head which came on 1% of all B20's and even then the only difference is vtec sized intake valves and 84mm combustion chambers which drop compression down to 8.8:1 instead of the 9.2:1.

 

And the whole myth about B20's not being good for boost, mine seemed to do just fine on 13lbs made over 300whp, and trust me it saw 13lbs several times. I ran 6lbs daily at 220whp only issue I had was with shitty clutch slipping. The motor is still running very strong a year later in another car. Theres also a 26 page thread on honda-tech with nothing but turbo B20 setups, so much for them not liking boost. Boost doesn't kill motors, shitty tunes do!

 

Also LS/Vtec is a huge no-no in my book. I have owned over 40hondas and been around them for 10 years now. I have yet to see a LS/Vtec last more then a year. You take a LS/B20 with a shitty rod stroke ratio, mate it up to a head that has a cam profile to make power in high rpm range and you got a combination for disaster. Vtec engages at 4800-5200 rpm depending on if you have a B16, Type R or GSR head. So that gives you roughly 2400-2k rpms worth of useful power, doesn't seem worth the 1000bucks you'll havd in doing a Vtec head swap. Oh you don't think its going to cost that much eh? Well lets do some math

 

Vtec Head: $300-500 (depending on if you get intake manifold or not)

Vtec Distributor: $100-$175

Head Studs: $120

Head Gasket: $50

Timing Belt: $60

Vtec Dowell Pins: $20-440

Sandwhich Adaptor Plate: $40-$100

Wiring Harness: $50-$125

Vtec ECU: $80-$150

Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: $25-$40

 

So do the math, on the low end your gonna have $845 roughly and on the high end your looking at 1835 for what 15-25whp? I had less then 2k in my turbo kit and that included hondata s300....just food for thought

 

You think your vtec head swap will get you more power then that? Why?

B16a: 160bhp

B18a/b: 130/140bhp

B18c: 170bhp

 

Still thinking that head swap's worth it?

 

Theres a reason the LS/B20 has a stock redline of 7200rpm's, because they weren't meant to rev higher then that. Theres also a reason a B16 can spin to 9k on stock internals, the rod stroke ratio is pretty damn good. I agree with Rob that if Honda wanted it that way, they would've waste the millions of dollars in R&D and made it that way from the factory. Just because it can be done, doesn't mean it should be done lol.

 

Shall I continue schooling you kids on Hondas?

 

Oh and just for proof on the camshafts here ya go

 

1991 Acura Integra LS:

14111-PR4-A00 CAMSHAFT, IN.

14121-PR4-A00 CAMSHAFT, EX.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=INTEGRA&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=3DR+LS&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-TIMING%2BBELT%2BCOVER&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

 

1994 Acura Integra LS:

14111-PR4-000 CAMSHAFT, IN.

14121-PR4-000 CAMSHAFT, EX.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=INTEGRA&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=3DR+LS&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-TIMING%2BBELT%2BCOVER&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

 

Oh and the heads are identical as well Rob:

1991 Integra LS:

12100-PR4-000

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=INTEGRA&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=3DR+LS&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER%2BHEAD%2B(1)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

 

1994 Integra LS:

12100-PR4-000 CYLINDER HEAD ASSY.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=INTEGRA&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=3DR+LS&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER%2BHEAD%2B(1)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

 

Oh and another myth that isn't true, auto vs manual cams....truth is they are the same fucking specs. I have had both sets Mic'ed by a machine shop to prove this myth wrong. They have the same exact lift/duration.

Edited by DaddyBuiltRacing
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Ok let me clean this damn thread up of all the mis-information being tossed out there.

 

The only difference between the 90-93 Integra motors and 94-01 LS motors is not the Head, its the Intake Manifold design and ECU tuning being a little more agressive. Thus the reason for the 10hp difference. Its not the cams like many people want to belive, I have debunked that myth about 10k times on different forums, look up the part numbers they are the exact same part number for 90-91 as they are for 92-01. They also share the same exact head and cams as the B20 unless your lucky enough to get a P8R head which came on 1% of all B20's and even then the only difference is vtec sized intake valves and 84mm combustion chambers which drop compression down to 8.8:1 instead of the 9.2:1.

 

And the whole myth about B20's not being good for boost, mine seemed to do just fine on 13lbs. I ran 6lbs daily at 220whp, made 302whp on 13lbs. The motor is still running very strong a year later in another car. Theres also a 26 page thread on honda-tech with nothing but turbo B20 setups, so much for them not liking boost. Boost doesn't kill motors, shitty tunes do!

 

Also LS/Vtec is a huge no-no in my book. I have owned over 40hondas and been around them for 10 years now. I have yet to see a LS/Vtec last more then a year. You take a LS/B20 with a shitty rod stroke ratio, mate it up to a head that has a cam profile to make power in high rpm range and you got a combination for disaster. Theres a reason the LS/B20 has a stock redline of 7200rpm's, because they weren't meant to rev higher then that. Theres also a reason a B16 can spin to 9k on stock internals, the rod stroke ratio is pretty damn good.

 

Shall I continue schooling you kids on Hondas?

 

 

School away. I'm listening.

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Interesting. Do you have any built LS motors? Anything pushing over 300HP?

 

Well lets see I had a stock B20 make over 300whp, oh yeah and I am currently building a GSR that is set to push over 600whp once completed. I do have a fresh rebuilt LS motor if your interested lol

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Oh and if you want to see straight LS motors making over 300whp here ya go:

 

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5047

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4627

 

Or how about 460whp with a straight LS?

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3084

 

And thats just the first 3 I could find, theres plenty more on that site alone

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goodluck with the build man. btw, lose those headlights. ur car looks like a front end of some multi-eye insect

 

 

Headlights are off now with the rest of the front gear, and staying off. Lol, unless for some reason they HAVE to go back on. Like I said before I really like the REAL JDM one piecers cause they are sper clean, but at the price they go for new (I hate buying used shit) they will probably be the last piece of the build. And thanks for the luck.

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Straight LS is the way to go man. What is your power goal? 300 and below you can do on stock sleeves all day long with a good tune. 325+ I would recomend sleeves. Im not sure what your budget is but check out http://www.laskeyracing.com they are doing my bottom end for me. They sell race motors for 3500 bucks and that includes Pauter Rods, CP Pistons, Benson Sleeves, Micropolished crank, balanced and blue printed to 11k rpms, type R oil pump, all lower end gaskets, assembled and shipped back to your door.
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Straight LS is the way to go man. What is your power goal? 300 and below you can do on stock sleeves all day long with a good tune. 325+ I would recomend sleeves. Im not sure what your budget is but check out http://www.laskeyracing.com they are doing my bottom end for me. They sell race motors for 3500 bucks and that includes Pauter Rods, CP Pistons, Benson Sleeves, Micropolished crank, balanced and blue printed to 11k rpms, type R oil pump, all lower end gaskets, assembled and shipped back to your door.

 

 

I wanna hit over 300HP for sure. It will take me a little bit but I am going all out with this build. No telling if I'll ever have the chance to build another so I'm doing it right while I still can. As for the block I'll check them out. Lately I have been talking to Larry Wildmer from Endyne though.

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I wanna hit over 300HP for sure. It will take me a little bit but I am going all out with this build. No telling if I'll ever have the chance to build another so I'm doing it right while I still can. As for the block I'll check them out. Lately I have been talking to Larry Wildmer from Endyne though.

 

I like Endyne but they are a little overpriced on their builds, plus I belive they used closed deck sleeves which I am not a fan of simply due to cooling issues. Some will say "but with closed deck you dont have to worry about sleeves moving" yeah instead you have to worry about your motor over heating.

 

If your interested I have a set of Brand new 85mm CP pistons w/rings for a B series that would be a nice pickup for you if you have plans of going all out. I picked them up and realized they just weren't what I wanted so I bought another set of pistons.

 

What turbo do you plan on running? Also headwork is the biggest power maker outside of a turbo on a honda. The bottom end just has to hold on for the ride. Pick up those valves from Rob (they used to be mine, when I was building a 400hp LS) have the head port and polished, valve job, bronze guides, titanium springs, oem retainers will work and actually have been proven to last longer then aftermarket ones. 400whp on pump gas with a big enough turbo is realistic anything above that is prob gonna require some 110 or higher octane and more boost. Just remember that 20lbs of boost on a t28 is nothing like 20lbs of boost on a gt40

 

Heres a helpful link for ya man:

http://www.evans-tuning.com/techarticle_b_horsepowertoparts.html

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Lol, I already bought Robs valves. I'm looking for some Supertech springs, and guides. I am definately building my head up though. Getting a price on some Toda cams. Not sure on what turbo I am going to use though. Still new to that aspect. I have a lot to learn. I was planning on using Endynes roller wave pistons with some crower or manly rods. But that rods depend on the deals I can find them for. I checked out the site you posted for motor work, but I can see spending $3500 for just a bottom end whe I can piece it for way cheaper. Whats the compression ratio on those pistons?
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Lol, I already bought Robs valves. I'm looking for some Supertech springs, and guides. I am definately building my head up though. Getting a price on some Toda cams. Not sure on what turbo I am going to use though. Still new to that aspect. I have a lot to learn. I was planning on using Endynes roller wave pistons with some crower or manly rods. But that rods depend on the deals I can find them for. I checked out the site you posted for motor work, but I can see spending $3500 for just a bottom end whe I can piece it for way cheaper. Whats the compression ratio on those pistons?

 

9:1 is the compression. Endyn rollerwaves are high compression pistons. My buddy has a set and they are 12.5:1, way too high for boosting. 3500 is a steal considering what all parts your getting

 

Pauter Rods: $850

CP Pistons: $500

Benson Sleeves: $1100

Polished Crank: $150

Oil Pump: $130

Blueprint and Assembly: $300

Bottom end gaskets: $100

Balancing: $100

 

Its well worth it man. Piecing it together might save you some money, my bottom end is only running me 2200 from Laskey but thats because I am supplying my own pistons and rods. Only reason I am doing that is because I found Pauter Rods for half and CP pistons for less then half due to crackhead sales.

 

As for cams I wouldn't go with Toda. I would go with either Crower or Brian Crower cams. Brian Crower is the son of Crower, got pissed at dad and decided to go out and do his own thing. His prices are good and customer service is even better. I had a set of his stage 2 LS turbo cams, picked em up for $300 shipped. They have a 470 lift w/280 duration @.050

Pm me if interested in my pistons I only want $350 for em, which is way below cost considering everywhere else they are 495+shipping

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9:1 is the compression. Endyn rollerwaves are high compression pistons. My buddy has a set and they are 12.5:1, way too high for boosting.

 

When I talked to him he said I could get them in 9.5:1.

 

 

Bump for a new pic in first post. Oh man the itch to build is getting stronger. I wanna start putting my stuff on already but gotta wait till it's at least painted.

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When I talked to him he said I could get them in 9.5:1.

 

 

Bump for a new pic in first post. Oh man the itch to build is getting stronger. I wanna start putting my stuff on already but gotta wait till it's at least painted.

 

Maybe you can get them but I know my buddies are 12.5:1 lol. I'm a fan of CP pistons but to each their own I guess.

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Password JDM fenders will be here next week. And no (I know what some of you are thinking) they are not ricey. They are actualy just like the stock ones but have side markers. Lol, between the bumper lights, HID's, and the side markers my car will be lit up like C-bus on a CR.com meet night.
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