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5.0 oil pan tap???


Ramsey

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best way is to weld a bung in it. of course with it off and clean!

 

+1.

 

However if you are not wanting to pull the pan you will need to punch a hole in the pan and then use a tap.

 

I am going to try and locate my drain on the driverside. :)

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Ramsey, he's right dont half ass this part. Drain the oil mark where the return bung needs to be, pull the pan buy a new gasket and get it welded off the car. I would buy an aluminum return bung and pitch that brass one.(cant weld that one you have) talk to brandon there less than ten bucks
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Damnit, i was hoping to do it like is says on vortechs website. Can i pull the pan with the motor in?

 

yes...undo the motor mount bolts, lift it as high as you can get it, drop the rack off the front, i dont even undo the steering shaft. drop the pan down, and unbolt the oil pump, and the pick up tube and drop it in the pan, it will come right out!

 

and get a arp oil pump shaft while your there. you dont want to twist it in 2

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yes...undo the motor mount bolts, lift it as high as you can get it, drop the rack off the front, i dont even undo the steering shaft. drop the pan down, and unbolt the oil pump, and the pick up tube and drop it in the pan, it will come right out!

 

and get a arp oil pump shaft while your there. you dont want to twist it in 2

 

 

Price on tap and weld if i bring the pan to you?

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There is nothing wrong with punching the pan, I've probably done it 20 times. You use the right punches - punching a whole produces no metal shavings and leaves you a hole with pleantly of folded metal to tap (NPT is tapered). Lots of grease and some common sense while you tap and you dont get metal in the oil. Change the oil when done (duh).

 

Find a vortech manual online and it has a diagram of where you want to punch.

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There is nothing wrong with punching the pan, I've probably done it 20 times. You use the right punches - punching a whole produces no metal shavings and leaves you a hole with pleantly of folded metal to tap (NPT is tapered). Lots of grease and some common sense while you tap and you dont get metal in the oil. Change the oil when done (duh).

 

Find a vortech manual online and it has a diagram of where you want to punch.

 

 

+1 as well.

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Price on tap and weld if i bring the pan to you?

 

this is the bung i put in millers pan

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/16264/10002/-1 or you can get the not fitting.

and $10 to weld it in, with the pan clean of oil.

 

 

rl, lots of grease on the tap and so on it can be done , but i have also seen people over do the tapping part and fuck shit up. and if the oil pan gets fucked up, then its time to weld in the bung.

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rl, lots of grease on the tap and so on it can be done , but i have also seen people over do the tapping part and fuck shit up. and if the oil pan gets fucked up, then its time to weld in the bung.

 

Yeah, and you can burn bread if you leave it in the oven to long.

 

All I'm saying is that it is common to punch and tap the pan, it works great.

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Yeah, and you can burn bread if you leave it in the oven to long.

 

All I'm saying is that it is common to punch and tap the pan, it works great.

 

and all im stating is that it can be a easy opps and fuck a oil pan up in the same sense. not everyone is like us and have done it a few times. now can you under stand where im coming from?

and while your there you might as well replace the oil pan gasket with a one piece reinforced one, cause you know most of them are blown out and leaking any way. and the arp shaft and new pump is just piece of mind IMO.

I mean you going to go to his house and do it for him and bring all the proper tools that he may or may not have? :confused:

 

hell im about to start buying stock oil pans and welding bung's in both sides for a exchange program.

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There is nothing wrong with punching the pan, I've probably done it 20 times. You use the right punches - punching a whole produces no metal shavings and leaves you a hole with pleantly of folded metal to tap (NPT is tapered). Lots of grease and some common sense while you tap and you dont get metal in the oil. Change the oil when done (duh).

 

Find a vortech manual online and it has a diagram of where you want to punch.

 

When done right, this is nice an easy.

 

If you punch it, just take your time and use a lot of grease. You'll be fine either way.

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Ramsey,

 

Kind of off topic here. What kind of hardware are you going to be running with the kit in terms or heads, intake, and cam?

 

Stock heads/cam and trick flow track heat with 1 inch spacer, 70mm tb and spacer.

 

if you want to pull the pan I've got one with returns welded into both sides that I'd trade ya for your stock pan and a pack of smokes

 

I will let you know.

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I need a 3/8 npt tap.

 

so are you pulling the pan and putting a bung in it, or just tapping it with it in there? lmk.i know i have the tap and punch. and the engine hoist you will need to pull the pan. but your other thread had me confused ..lmao

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so are you pulling the pan and putting a bung in it, or just tapping it with it in there? lmk.i know i have the tap and punch. and the engine hoist you will need to pull the pan. but your other thread had me confused ..lmao

 

I really dont want to pull the pan, i think im just going to try to punch/tap it. if that fails i will pull the pan. i mean it is in the vortech instructions to punch and tap with the pan on, so it cant be that hard. but if someone had the right tools and had done it before, i would toss a couple bucks their way and have them do it.

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Ramsey I have a tap, stop at the shop if you need it. I have never pulled the pan on any of my cars including the 2v I drive daily. Punching and tapping the pan will work just fine. Its not going to hurt anything if you do it properly. Sorry I havent gotten back with you sooner, I have been out of town working for my dad since Tuesday.
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