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whining noise


Snowflake

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Ive been getting this whining noise coming from my TA when I turn the steering wheel. It happens everytime and in either direction.

 

I check the level of the power steering fluid. Before I could though, I first had to clean off alot of gunk from the cap before opening. I noticed pretty much all around the area has this mess.

 

Anyway the fluid level was low and I put enough to fill to the cold mark since car had not been started all day.

 

I then went for a ride and allthough I think it quieted it down some the noise is still there.

 

Any ideas where to go from here?

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Ive been getting this whining noise coming from my TA when I turn the steering wheel. It happens everytime and in either direction.

 

I check the level of the power steering fluid. Before I could though, I first had to clean off alot of gunk from the cap before opening. I noticed pretty much all around the area has this mess.

 

Anyway the fluid level was low and I put enough to fill to the cold mark since car had not been started all day.

 

I then went for a ride and allthough I think it quieted it down some the noise is still there.

 

Any ideas where to go from here?

 

Not sure about the T/A's but the other GM cars I've had, an Alero and even my only 16k mile GXP had morning sickness develop. New steering rack and all was fine. Does is go away once it's warmed up and you've been driving it?

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if it was low you have one of two things, air in the system or the pump is making the noise. you can bleed the system by filling the fluid up then starting the car and turning the wheel to full lock and they turn the car off. then after it sits for about 3-5 min do it again in the other direction maybe 4 or 5 times. always check to see if you have any bubbles and top off the fluid as needed.
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if it was low you have one of two things, air in the system or the pump is making the noise. you can bleed the system by filling the fluid up then starting the car and turning the wheel to full lock and they turn the car off. then after it sits for about 3-5 min do it again in the other direction maybe 4 or 5 times. always check to see if you have any bubbles and top off the fluid as needed.

 

 

When you say look for bubbles can I leave the cap off while doing this?

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if it was low you have one of two things, air in the system or the pump is making the noise. you can bleed the system by filling the fluid up then starting the car and turning the wheel to full lock and they turn the car off. then after it sits for about 3-5 min do it again in the other direction maybe 4 or 5 times. always check to see if you have any bubbles and top off the fluid as needed.

 

 

Ok, I followed above instructions.

 

I do have bubbles but I am not having to top it off. The level is staying correct in cold position.

 

I went through the above process and then went for a ride to get it up to temp and listen to it.

 

The sound is still there but what I noticed is that it only makes the sound when Im moving and turning. If Im stopped and I turn the wheel all the way in both directions I get no sound.

 

So the sound is happening only when my wheel are turning. I have always thought the sound was coming from behind me but I can really tell.

 

The fluid level was good even hot...

Edited by Snowflake
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this coming from a ford guy? this made me lol

ford pumps make noise..and?

I am now pretty convinced that when the noise Im hearing is coming from the rear end...

 

What could be causing this.

 

only when turning the rearend makes noise? have you checked fluid level? any leaks like from the pinion?

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ford pumps make noise..and?

 

 

only when turning the rearend makes noise? have you checked fluid level? any leaks like from the pinion?

 

Yes when turning in either direction is the only time it makes noise. Im about to jack the car up and look at the rear end.

 

Im really dont know what a pinion is though but I will be back in a few after taking a look...

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pinion seal in right behind the drive shaft yoke. basiclly the front of the diff.

 

almost sounds as if your having a brake rotor noise issue , or maybe a axle bearing noise. but i would almost have to hear it before saying for sure what it is

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http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/jeepgclwj/reardiftransam009.jpg

 

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/jeepgclwj/gearoilleak003.jpg

 

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/jeepgclwj/gearoilleak002.jpg

 

This looks like it might be my problem. What am I looking at?

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the last 2 pics are of the fill hole... looks like its leaking from the vent, and the pinion seal towards the front.

 

10 bolts FTL..

 

Would this be whats causing the whining you think? I put some gear oil in it until it started overflowing. It did not take very much at all. I went for a spin and I think it might have quited down a bit it is still there.

 

What will I need to replace to stop the leaking?

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the pinion seal in the front. getting the big nut off is a 1 1/4 size, and a impact. and then replacing the seal. and getting the nut tightened back down correctly to where it doesnt cause a bearing failure from being over tight, or to loose.

 

and there is a mod to do on the vent itself. to keep it come blowing fluid everywhere at high speeds.

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if you decide to tear into that yourself measure the turning torque on the pinion before you remove the nut and then when you put it back together make sure its the same or a little tighter I also recomend a new nut and a new crush sleeve

 

it might also just be a good time to upgrade to a 9" or a 12bolt if you drive the car hard at all

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if you decide to tear into that yourself measure the turning torque on the pinion before you remove the nut and then when you put it back together make sure its the same or a little tighter I also recomend a new nut and a new crush sleeve

 

it might also just be a good time to upgrade to a 9" or a 12bolt if you drive the car hard at all

 

you can only measure that right with the ring out..(if just setting the pinion)

 

and the cursh sleeve would mean you have to take the front bearing out. yet still taking the ring gear out. a soild pinion sleeve is best and shimming if driving hard, cause the crush sleev does just that on hard launchs messing more shit up.

 

and yes, 9" or 12 would be a great upgrade if big wheels and lots of hard driving drag racing are to come. cause even upgraded 10 bolts break.

 

maybe you can get in on the group buy im doing. i can hook you up on either 9 or 12...

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if you decide to tear into that yourself measure the turning torque on the pinion before you remove the nut and then when you put it back together make sure its the same or a little tighter I also recomend a new nut and a new crush sleeve

 

it might also just be a good time to upgrade to a 9" or a 12bolt if you drive the car hard at all

 

 

Gotcha! I have been reading up on this and that nutt is a concern to alot of people and you just confirmed it. Thank you.

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you can only measure that right with the ring out..(if just setting the pinion)

 

.

 

you measure the torque as an assembly this gives you an idea of how tight the bearing is ( like when you do front brakes on a 2wd truck or an older car)

 

it works and its in the book

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you measure the torque as an assembly this gives you an idea of how tight the bearing is ( like when you do front brakes on a 2wd truck or an older car)

 

it works and its in the book

 

yes, but see there is something that is not in the book. what if's...

 

 

like if the side bearing load is to high? what if the front bearing wont tighten down enough..its stuff like that the book dont cover. and some say to measure just the pinion bearing rolling torque, and some say to measure it all together.

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