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Cam suggestions 302


Stimmel1647545512

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I ran an e-cam with that combo and it was pretty strong

 

you need to stay under .500 lift if your not flycutting the pistons

?????? I ran a Z cam with windsor senior heads on a stock block and the pistons where never cut.

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I have an E cam if you were interested. I have changed routes and going maybe a little more aggressive than planned and I would sell it if you were interested. I also have a vic jr uppper/lower setup brand new in the box still. Dont know what you have in mind but if any of that interests you, Ill get you a price.
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I have an E cam if you were interested. I have changed routes and going maybe a little more aggressive than planned and I would sell it if you were interested. I also have a vic jr uppper/lower setup brand new in the box still. Dont know what you have in mind but if any of that interests you, Ill get you a price.

 

what shape is the cam in how many miles etc? how much?

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My old notch had an E-cam, AFR 165 heads, shitty edlebrock performer upper/lower intake and did 111 in the 1/4 untuned. why are you worried about revving to 7k? get some new heads on that bitch, GT40's blow dick (for n/a purposes at least).
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My old notch had an E-cam, AFR 165 heads, shitty edlebrock performer upper/lower intake and did 111 in the 1/4 untuned. why are you worried about revving to 7k? get some new heads on that bitch, GT40's blow dick (for n/a purposes at least).

 

1, he's not looking to rev to 7 k

2, gt40's dont blow dick, e7 blow mouse cock, gt40's and p's blow rat cock, and afr's only slightly better.

3. take some gt40's and work them with valves and porting, and they work just as good afr's. and look stock.

 

heres some data

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/flowdata.htm

for as cast heads

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1, he's not looking to rev to 7 k

2, gt40's dont blow dick, e7 blow mouse cock, gt40's and p's blow rat cock, and afr's only slightly better.

3. take some gt40's and work them with valves and porting, and they work just as good afr's. and look stock.

 

heres some data

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/flowdata.htm

for as cast heads

 

ya, and i'm sure a good porting job is cheap.. and posting those statistics don't mean shit to me. I just race my cars, I don't build them. I just know i haven't seen fast gt40 cars around dayton. I don't really care tho.. went LS1 and am not looking back haha.

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1, he's not looking to rev to 7 k

2, gt40's dont blow dick, e7 blow mouse cock, gt40's and p's blow rat cock, and afr's only slightly better.

3. take some gt40's and work them with valves and porting, and they work just as good afr's. and look stock.

 

heres some data

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/flowdata.htm

for as cast heads

 

that first cam on the list looks like it would be best for me, I dont see any high rev cams that would work for me but I would love to be able to shift at 7k rpm

 

..............................................

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ya, and i'm sure a good porting job is cheap.. and posting those statistics don't mean shit to me. I just race my cars, I don't build them. I just know i haven't seen fast gt40 cars around dayton. I don't really care tho.. went LS1 and am not looking back haha.

 

no, good port jobs are not cheap. you can get some dumbass with a grinder to fuck them up cheap im sure.

and i dont know about dayton. i know what ive tossed together, and other cars i have seen.

 

statistics? wow just wow. :nono:

yeah afr's are nice, but over priced with junk parts in them. call fox lake up and ask them. i have watched them take 225 afr;'s, and toss everything out of them in the trash.

oh you went ls1..well im sorry for your loss. i've made a living working on gm's.there is no sense in owning one :p

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no, good port jobs are not cheap. you can get some dumbass with a grinder to fuck them up cheap im sure.

and i dont know about dayton. i know what ive tossed together, and other cars i have seen.

 

statistics? wow just wow. :nono:

yeah afr's are nice, but over priced with junk parts in them. call fox lake up and ask them. i have watched them take 225 afr;'s, and toss everything out of them in the trash.

oh you went ls1..well im sorry for your loss. i've made a living working on gm's.there is no sense in owning one :p

 

lol, damn those gm bastards and their stock 109mph trapping fbodies..hey i got some of those shitty afr 205s sitting next to my bed. can't wait to see how shitty my car runs with them.

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lol, damn those gm bastards and their stock 109mph trapping fbodies..hey i got some of those shitty afr 205s sitting next to my bed. can't wait to see how shitty my car runs with them.

 

how you think it would fend against my stock bottom end, stock headed home built 289? hell its trapped higher then 109 in the 1/8 n/a :lol:

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how you think it would fend against my stock bottom end, stock headed home built 289? hell its trapped higher then 109 in the 1/8 n/a :lol:

 

well if you do more in the 1/8 than i do in the 1/4, i would venture to say not too well! haha...but i am curious, how the fuck does one trap over 109mph in the 1/8 in a 289 with stock heads, and stock bottom end (assuming stock compression too) without nitrous or some power adder? Must be one badass intake mani!! hahaha

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well if you do more in the 1/8 than i do in the 1/4, i would venture to say not too well! haha...but i am curious, how the fuck does one trap over 109mph in the 1/8 in a 289 with stock heads, and stock bottom end (assuming stock compression too) without nitrous or some power adder? Must be one badass intake mani!! hahaha

 

its run what you brung and hope ....well you know what im going to say.:D

 

 

yep just a little 289 with big headers, big carb, solid cam, and some pistons.

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well if you do more in the 1/8 than i do in the 1/4, i would venture to say not too well! haha...but i am curious, how the fuck does one trap over 109mph in the 1/8 in a 289 with stock heads, and stock bottom end (assuming stock compression too) without nitrous or some power adder? Must be one badass intake mani!! hahaha

You can bolt stock Boss 302 heads to a 289. Older certain hi-po stock 289's had a M1 crank witch is forged, forged rods, and around 12 to one compression.

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its run what you brung and hope ....well you know what im going to say.:D

 

 

yep just a little 289 with big headers, big carb, solid cam, and some pistons.

 

ok, so it's got really high compression, and a good cam...gotcha. Still don't see how it's doing over 109 in the 1/8...unless there's more that you want to tell me ;)

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Back on topic. Stimmel with the cost and availability I suggest the E cam will work best for what you got. You can pick up used ones for around $50.

 

He might as well keep his stock cam then...and e-cam isn't going to do that much for him :/ Why not get your heads and intake and then get a custom ground cam? I mean ya get what you pay for...if you want a $125 out of the box cam, go for it. But don't expect it to be a beast. I will admit tho, my e-cam purred nicely.

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ok, so it's got really high compression, and a good cam...gotcha. Still don't see how it's doing over 109 in the 1/8...unless there's more that you want to tell me ;)

yes and yes and nunya (if i told you, your head would explode. but the info for my car is all over the net, you must not get around much)

He might as well keep his stock cam then...and e-cam isn't going to do that much for him :/ Why not get your heads and intake and then get a custom ground cam? I mean ya get what you pay for...if you want a $125 out of the box cam, go for it. But don't expect it to be a beast. I will admit tho, my e-cam purred nicely.

 

umm no, not if he plans on spraying till he goes turbo

 

heres my idea for cams. these are custom ground with lots of research behind them

 

Camshafts For Use With Stock 87-95 Pistons

N-21 Same as N-41 except utilizing 1.7 R.R. 302 c.i.d. This cam is to be used with 1.7 R.R. Best cam for GT-40. Great with TFS or Edelbrock heads. Minimum 24lb injectors and 75mm mass air. Recommend 3.73 to 4.30 gears. Good drivability down to 2100 rpm, lumpy idle, rpm range 2600-6200, works best with 89-93 EEC, needs 2800-3000 converter. With bolt-down R.R., needs 0.040" longer push rods.

B-21 Same as B-31 except utilizing 1.7 R.R. N2O or S/C 8-15 lb 302 c.i.d. Best performer for 1.7 R.R., stock pistons and 6200 rpm. Great with TFS or Edelbrock heads. Minimum 30lb injectors and 80mm mass air. Recommend 3.55 or 3.73 gears. Good drivability down to 1900 rpm, mild idle, rpm range 2400-6200, works best with 89-93 EEC, needs 2600-3000 converter. Great N.A. cam for 94-95 Mustang with great drivability. With bolt-down R.R., needs 0.040" longer push rods.

N-41 302 c.i.d. This cam is to be used with 1.6 R.R. Best cam for GT-40. Great with TFS or Edelbrock heads. Minimum 24lb injectors and 75mm mass air. Recommend 3.73 to 4.30 gears. Good drivability down to 2100 rpm, lumpy idle, rpm range 2600-6200, works best with 89-93 EEC, needs 2800-3000 converter

N-412 302 c.i.d. This cam is to be used with 1.6 R.R. Great with GT-40, TFS or Edelbrock heads. Minimum 24lb injectors and 75mm mass air. Recommend 3.55 to 4.10 gears. Great drivability down to 1800 rpm, nice idle, rpm range 2300-6200, works best with 89-93 EEC, needs 2500-2700 converter.

 

all of these have proven them self's over most any other shelve cam. and take either N cam and run a 1.7 RR and notch the pistons, with power pipe, and some worked heads.

excuse me if no one around dayton knows how to build a N/a 5.0 car.(or one that atleast runs the streets)

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