xlr8tn Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 It has 4wal and I'm wondering if it's possible to bleed the abs block without a tech 2 or the j39177 tools? If the abs light is on the abs is disabled correct? The reason I ask that is some say (internet folklore maybe) you can get the air out of the block by locking the brakes up and getting the abs to engage but with my light on I'm pretty sure the abs disables itself. I have pedal and the truck doesn't stop half bad but the pedal definitely doesn't feel right and the abs light is on. I replaced the brake lines so that's how I know there's air in the block. I bled the master cylinder and all 4 wheels twice now but can't get the abs bled and I assume it's because the valves need cycled. Some of the stuff I read is confusing because there's conflicting info out there as to whether you can bleed them without the tech 2 and j39177 tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted September 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2009 I'm guessing I'm SOL on this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh8sti Posted September 19, 2009 Report Share Posted September 19, 2009 you must work out your abs alot to make them bleed... whats your secret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 19, 2009 Report Share Posted September 19, 2009 Manual bleeding the system NOTE: Bleeding is necessary if air has entered the hydraulic brake system. It may be necessary to bleed the system at all four wheels if a low fluid level allowed air to enter the system, or the brake pipes have been disconnected at the master cylinder or combination valve. If a pipe is disconnected at one wheel, then only bleed that wheel. The time required to bleed the hydraulic system when the master cylinder is removed can be reduced by bleeding the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle. If the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) has been replaced or has air trapped in it, refer to Antilock Brake System. NOTE: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths, suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas. Always reseal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills. Tool Required: * J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench yeah, a special wrench my ass NOTE: Relieve the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition "OFF." 1. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs with Delco Supreme No. 11 Hydraulic Brake Fluid GM G/M 1052535 or an equivalent DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid. o Maintain the fluid level during bleeding. 2. If the master cylinder is suspected to have air in the bore, bleed it before any wheel cylinder or caliper. 1. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. 2. Allow the brake fluid to flow from the connector port. 3. Connect the brake pipe but do not tighten. 4. Slowly apply the brake pedal and allow the air to bleed from the loose fitting. 5. Tighten the fitting before releasing the pedal. 6. Wait 15 seconds. 7. Repeat this sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is purged from the bore. 8. After all air has been removed from the forward connection, repeat this procedure for the rear pipe. 3. If the BPMV is replaced or suspected to have air trapped inside, it must be bled next. Refer AntiLock Brake System. 4. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence: 1. Right rear 2. Left rear 3. Right front 4. Left front 5. Attach J 28434 to the wheel cylinder/caliper bleeder valve. o Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. 6. Slowly apply the brake pedal one time and hold. 7. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 8. Tighten the bleeder valve and slowly release the pedal. 9. Wait 15 seconds. 10. Repeat this sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is purged from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 11. Tighten the bleeder valve to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.) . 12. Continue Steps 5 through 11 at each wheel until the system is bled. 13. Check the brake pedal for "sponginess" and the brake warning lamp for an indication of unbalanced pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to correct either of these conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted September 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 Manual bleeding the system NOTE: Bleeding is necessary if air has entered the hydraulic brake system. It may be necessary to bleed the system at all four wheels if a low fluid level allowed air to enter the system, or the brake pipes have been disconnected at the master cylinder or combination valve. If a pipe is disconnected at one wheel, then only bleed that wheel. The time required to bleed the hydraulic system when the master cylinder is removed can be reduced by bleeding the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle. If the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) has been replaced or has air trapped in it, refer to Antilock Brake System. NOTE: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths, suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas. Always reseal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills. Tool Required: * J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench yeah, a special wrench my ass NOTE: Relieve the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition "OFF." 1. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs with Delco Supreme No. 11 Hydraulic Brake Fluid GM G/M 1052535 or an equivalent DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid. o Maintain the fluid level during bleeding. 2. If the master cylinder is suspected to have air in the bore, bleed it before any wheel cylinder or caliper. 1. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. 2. Allow the brake fluid to flow from the connector port. 3. Connect the brake pipe but do not tighten. 4. Slowly apply the brake pedal and allow the air to bleed from the loose fitting. 5. Tighten the fitting before releasing the pedal. 6. Wait 15 seconds. 7. Repeat this sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is purged from the bore. 8. After all air has been removed from the forward connection, repeat this procedure for the rear pipe. 3. If the BPMV is replaced or suspected to have air trapped inside, it must be bled next. Refer AntiLock Brake System. 4. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence: 1. Right rear 2. Left rear 3. Right front 4. Left front 5. Attach J 28434 to the wheel cylinder/caliper bleeder valve. o Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. 6. Slowly apply the brake pedal one time and hold. 7. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 8. Tighten the bleeder valve and slowly release the pedal. 9. Wait 15 seconds. 10. Repeat this sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is purged from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 11. Tighten the bleeder valve to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.) . 12. Continue Steps 5 through 11 at each wheel until the system is bled. 13. Check the brake pedal for "sponginess" and the brake warning lamp for an indication of unbalanced pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to correct either of these conditions. yeah, I got that part. The ABS is what I'm having trouble with. I'm going to call the dealership out here Monday and just see what they would charge me to bleed 'em. I imagine it's not going to be pretty though. A buddy of mine is going to come over and give me a hand and see if we can get it bled but it looks like you gotta have a tech 2 to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 20, 2009 Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 what did you replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted September 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 what did you replace? all the brake lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 20, 2009 Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 did you run the master dry? if so, that may be the issue. normally, unless you changed the abs unit, you dont need the scan tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted September 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 Yeah, I screwed up when the wife was helping me bleed them the first time. I also had to take the pressure sensor off the ABS block to get to the line underneath it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 20, 2009 Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 then change the master out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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