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Biggu's 1.5jz engine build


BIGGU
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Hmmm thats weird, the issue I had with mine was it held good and felt decent, but would lock me out of gear in high rpm. Spec ended up sending me a new pressure plate and the new one did the same thing, then I just went with a twin disk and never had the issue. Once I go biggger turbo I will go back to a twin disk set up.
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Hmmm thats weird, the issue I had with mine was it held good and felt decent, but would lock me out of gear in high rpm. Spec ended up sending me a new pressure plate and the new one did the same thing, then I just went with a twin disk and never had the issue. Once I go biggger turbo I will go back to a twin disk set up.

 

sounds like the clutch line needed bled to me.

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well the engine was shifting at 9500 rpm they told me I would run into this issue with the weak tranny.

 

An RB spinning to 9500? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/blankface.gif

 

I don't know about the tranny, but if the clutch was simply too soft, of course it's not going to withstand 9500 revs. I had an identicle problem with my AE86 when I was revving it out past 9- There wasn't enough clamping force of my pressure plate shifting between gears so it acted just like a slipping clutch.

 

Speaking of Spec Plus series, IIRC I think that's what's going on my 20v... I bought 3+

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An RB spinning to 9500? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/blankface.gif

 

I don't know about the tranny, but if the clutch was simply too soft, of course it's not going to withstand 9500 revs. I had an identicle problem with my AE86 when I was revving it out past 9- There wasn't enough clamping force of my pressure plate shifting between gears so it acted just like a slipping clutch.

 

Speaking of Spec Plus series, IIRC I think that's what's going on my 20v... I bought 3+

 

 

No not my RB this was years ago, I was running a solid lifter/ solid cam fully build machined head,sleved, alum rod,sr20 I could of rev'ed higher then 9500 that was my peak power for the turbo. The head /rotating mass was good for 10k+. You can buy off shelf heads for 11k rpm for drag racing now in the states for decent prices.

 

And yes you could easly build a Rb that rev's 9500, its very common for guys who run soilid lifter/cam/ and high vol oil pump and collar's to rev 10k, my car will not be able to this spring but maybe later I have a baby turbo.

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  • 2 weeks later...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/SC300/winter%2009/18ebd24a.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/SC300/winter%2009/5320be8a.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/SC300/winter%2009/d66105ce.jpg

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Looks great! You going to delete that lame water cooled oil cooler? I figured you would of deleted all the plumbing for fluid routing since the car see's the track a lot. You would be surprized how hot that oilcooler raised the water temp. After deleting mine I seen a big improvment on my last engine.
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lol what old motor?

 

ok guys things have changed on the plans for the best, new plans are as follows:

Machine Work:

Clean/ Cold Tank 6 Cylinder Head

Multiangle Valve Job 6 Cylinder

Resurface 6 Cylinder Head

Turbo Port and Polish Toyota 6 cyl.

Parts:

BC 272 Camshafts BC0332

BC Spring and Retainer Kit BC0300

BC +1mm valves

ARP Head Studs 203-4205

1.6MM Head Gasket C4276-065

Precision Wastegate 46mm

Garrett T4/60-1 Turbo

Slomo Intercooler Piping Kit

Precision 880cc

DriftMotion Fuel Rail

OEM exhaust studs

mishimoto radiator

and a few other odds and ends.

 

should be quite nice when its all said and done.

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tax return came in and im ready to order parts.

 

so ive been trying to figure this out for the last few days ive been trying to figure this out with no luck

 

plan is a 1jz head on a 2jz bottom end.

 

head will receive 272 BC cams, BC springs and retainers, Bc +1 MM valves, all the normal built head necessity, 1.6mm metal head gasket.

 

question is will a +1 mm valve cause an issue with the oem 2jz pistons? motor stock is non interference and with the thick head gasket I think it should be fine but I cant find anything for sure.

 

so i could just say fuck valves and screw the port and polish and use that money to get the turbo and other goodies OR i could just get it done and delay the motor more if i need new pistons and rods.

 

oh also i have a r154 on its way some time to hold the extra power im going to put down.

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so today i ordered my BC cams, BC springs, BC retainers, AEM cam gears and a few other random things.

 

Just to ask a question why the head work when the car is on stock turbos? Wouldnt a turbo upgrade net much more power then head work? Or I could be wrong and the turbo is already done? usually 2.5 liter inline 6 engines/ with stock valve train and stock cams are good for over 500whp easy all day long.

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