dustinsn3485 Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 Agreed. But, the Vesrah pads everyone is referring to are in the same range as the EBCs. The track day stuff was simply for his reference if he did do any track days...EBC, Galfer, OEM, etc are all good choices for street. If you are an aggressive street rider, you might want to look at some more serious pads as EBCs are not quite as good as some others out there...I see. I've never even priced pads as I've always just bought EBC. Somewhat negligent I suppose, considering I like to be pretty knowledgeable in the field. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 i think it would be fair to say that the strret rider couldnt go wrong with any of the top name braking pads..not a huge difference in the low-middle priced pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) For a street bike I'd get the EBCs or OEM and put fresh ones on front and rear every year, in the Spring. (edit: Or the basic Vesrah or Galfer pads.) Maybe the rear can be replaced every other year. I go through brake pads and tires fast. Same on my cars, I put new brake pads on every two years (or after a certain number of miles), it's cheap (if you do it yourself) and beats damaging rotors and drums. Performance pads (or new pads) are only one part of an equation, if you need more braking power. The braided lines, disk, caliper, master cylinder and fluid should all be checked and repaired or improved for maximum performance.All brake pads and shoes require a break-in. There are lots of thoughts on how to do that. Each manufacturer is very specific about how they think it should be done. And each type of pad material has a somewhat different break-in. I know what works, but I don't know what works best yet. So each to his own. Just be aware that the brakes won't work very well right after installing them.Basically most pads need the heat to finish the "tempering" of the pad material. They also need to be "ground-down" until they have full contact with the rotor or drum. With some types, a layer of pad material has to be transfered onto the rotor. So a period of break-in is necessary till they are at least close to ready to perform. Edited February 27, 2009 by ReconRat add Vesrah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 All brake pads and shoes require a break-in. There are lots of thoughts on how to do that. Each manufacturer is very specific about how they think it should be done. And each type of pad material has a somewhat different break-in. I know what works, but I don't know what works best yet. So each to his own. Just be aware that the brakes won't work very well right after installing them.This is not true with modern pads like seen in the RJLs and others. No break in required. That's old school stuff... Now basic pads, possibly, but not sure on that so I cannot say. I do know 100% that you don't need to accelerate and brake, accelerate and brake like you used to have to do to bed the pads in.Clean the rotors with mineral spirits or similar and slap on the new pads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 Yeah I dont think Monte liked those CL's you ran that day either. hahahaha. Man I wish I could have been there to watch that braking experience on the back straight. I probably would have crashed just from watching you shit yourself and me laughing so hard in my helmet.I actually didn't panic at all. I was a bit in the mode of "Oh, shit", but honestly, it wasn't too bad and it seemed like I had enough time and choices to get her slowed properly. I will say that my MX experience and ability to slide a bike while braking helped me out. Not bragging, but lesser ability would have been eating pebles in the beach off the back straight... It's the first time I have had that happen and will take that as a learning experience for any other time. I actually thought everything through and had a back up if it wouldn't have gotten slowed enough... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) This is not true with modern pads like seen in the RJLs and others. No break in required. That's old school stuff... Now basic pads, possibly, but not sure on that so I cannot say. I do know 100% that you don't need to accelerate and brake, accelerate and brake like you used to have to do to bed the pads in.Clean the rotors with mineral spirits or similar and slap on the new pads...Interesting, but I doubt if the surface match is perfect when installed. 80% surface contact is considered "good enough" to get out on the track? I thought I read that somewhere. And you have to break them in to get that 80%? Asking I am, you guys know the track, I don't.From the Vesrah website, only the Vesrah RJL 006 says no bedding in required.edit: it was on the EBC website, they wanted 95% contact on race pads. Edited February 28, 2009 by ReconRat added EBC data Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exSRAaron Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 I'd suggest the JL's or RJL's like lizard said. EBC HH pads are very similiar to OEM from what I've heard. And they are all priced about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 Got me now, I want to try the Vesrah SRJL 17. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 omggggg hahaso many choicesi do have galfer lines and motul 5.1 fluid on the way too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 what about these???i'm having trouble finding people selling some of the pads, mainly vesrahhttp://www.indysuperbike.com/customer/product.php?productid=116924&cat=33536&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmako777 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Brennan do you know how to install the lines or do you need help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) Brennan do you know how to install the lines or do you need help?lines should be cake.done brakes and lines multiple times on cars before, should be no different.shit, i've even built 3 engines Edited February 28, 2009 by brennan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 the only hard part is getting the fluid to come through the lines initially. i rented a mityvac from my local autozone and sucked it through the finished it off with the bleeders.do you have speedbleeders brennan? you should probably get some... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) no, but i can get ahold of one of those so called "mini vacs" lol, but a good one that hooks up to a compressor.edit: just realized i have a hand pump one in my garage too ha Edited February 28, 2009 by brennan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Interesting, but I doubt if the surface match is perfect when installed. 80% surface contact is considered "good enough" to get out on the track? I thought I read that somewhere. And you have to break them in to get that 80%? Asking I am, you guys know the track, I don't.From the Vesrah website, only the Vesrah RJL 006 says no bedding in required.Never have had to break in a set of pads since 1998... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhaag Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 i like SBS (same compound as EBC HH). kind of hard to find, but no break-in required and lots of bite. i had them on my TL and they performed much better than EBC's, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 I'd suggest the JL's or RJL's like lizard said. EBC HH pads are very similiar to OEM from what I've heard. And they are all priced about the same.only vesrahs i could find for my biketoo much for the street?http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exSRAaron Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 those will be perfect. call em and get a price quote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Basic Vesrah is actually what Vesrah makes for the factory. In other words, basic Vesrah is OEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 those will be perfect. call em and get a price quote call them?as in, they might be cheaper over the phone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 ordered the vesrah rjl'shope they're worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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