MackDaddy43 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Ok so, I was swapping out the old turbo to put a new one in, when I figured hell I'll just do the timing while I'm at it. The previous owner said it was done around 120k, but I don't trust him at ALL. So I planned to pull the front end apart tonight, and order the kit tomorrow so I could just slap it all in when I got it. Then I noticed that everything in there was clean, and looked pretty new. I don't know if there is any way of telling how fresh a belt is, but it looked pretty good, minus some rust dust. As you'll see, the tensioners and everything all seem to be new. The main concern I had was that the walkthrough I was reading said that there should be NO slack on the long side of the belt, I added pic's of that too. Opinions? Should it be ok, or should I spend the $300 + my time to do it to be safe. http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/TheMackOutlet/IMG_0473.jpghttp://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/TheMackOutlet/IMG_0474.jpg http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/TheMackOutlet/IMG_0475.jpghttp://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/TheMackOutlet/IMG_0476.jpghttp://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/TheMackOutlet/IMG_0477.jpghttp://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/TheMackOutlet/IMG_0478.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 rust is probably just from where the motor sat for awhile. as new as the stuff looks if anything i'd just do a belt.. otherwise leave it alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 if you are unsure of the mileage on any V. A. G. car and you have it apart that far put a waterpump and timing belt in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDaddy43 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 I'm only half way there lol. I just stopped when I saw it. I just don't want to spend $300 if I'm not going to need to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGU Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 how long are you planning on keeping the car? if you have it down that far and your planning on keeping the car for a while then take care of it and save the head ache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Meh looks like the truth was told to me, There is not "slack" in that belt, they will move and stretch. They are not concrete. Why would anyone change the tensioners out and not the belt? I'd let it ride. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRed05 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 I'd do it, you're there anyway. You will know for sure then, and you will know that it was done right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDaddy43 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Once I get the jetta all fixed it's not going to be my daily. I plan on doing a build over the next year or 2, but I was just going to buy another aeb, do the build and swap them out. Do you think the belt would hold up until then? If it snaps what am I out? a head? So $300 for the kit now, or another $400 when/if it snaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRed05 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Well if your going to be building another motor, fuck it, seal her up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Well if your going to be building another motor, fuck it, seal her up. That's what I said... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDaddy43 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 So just put it together? Not even worth a new belt? What about belt conditioner? Should I put some of that on to clean it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRed05 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 I wouldnt put any of that on there, I dont trust that shit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDaddy43 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 sounds good man. Thanks for all of your help. I'm just gonna save some money this time around and put it towards the clutch and exhaust I'm gonna need here soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xyster101 Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 +1 to no belt conditioner. Those things run 10+ years without any "conditioner". I would not bother to change it. Although if you do break the belt, you need a head and possibly some pistons. You will still have to spend the $300 for a new belt, so $700 total then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 where are you shopping for a timing belt and waterpump and it costs 300 bones.... you wouldn't have but 40-50 bucks in a good gates belt and a brand new waterpump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Looks like the newer style tensioner and roller to me.. I'd say it's good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDaddy43 Posted May 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 where are you shopping for a timing belt and waterpump and it costs 300 bones.... you wouldn't have but 40-50 bucks in a good gates belt and a brand new waterpump Note, I said the timing "kit". Which comes with all of that. It seems like it'd be hard to do JUST the belt seeing as how the tensioner damper has a grenade pin in it that you pull when it's done. So I think it'd be wayy easier to get a kit. The "complete" kit comes with timing belt, serp belts, water pump, coolant, and the rollers / tension / dampers. I think I'm just gonna roll with it though. I ordered some g12++ today and a new apr snub to put in. I guess this "new and improved" g12++ is supposed to be the real deal. We'll see haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cinergi Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 I wouldnt put any of that on there, I dont trust that shit. Cody, what he said. That shit is some snake oil. I have never seen it work, I have actually seen the opposite. If you are building another motor, just apply the $300 towards it. I would suspect that if the tensioner was done that the belt would be too. It would be an extremely rare case that someone would do that and not the belt. If you are indeed going to trade it off, you have pictures... just show it to them and let them decide what they want to do. If you're not DD'ing it, it seems like money you can put towards something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonkiller Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Scat rods and Mahle pistons is all you need for a 1.8t build, it will hold over 600whp , Change out your water pump and tensioner with new ones and a metal impellar bolt on big turbo and go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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