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School me on Turbo 5.0L


2highpsi

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I have built quite a few cars. Some V8, some turbo, but not a turbo V8. I bought this car from a friend of mine just because I couldn't pass the deal up. It is a built 93 GT Mustang. He is taking off the supercharger because I wanted to turbo it anyways.

http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o367/stoneman2006/mustang11k003.jpg

Here are the major mods: (copy and paste from the sale info he gave me)

 

http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o367/stoneman2006/mustang11k013.jpg

Motor

Block: Fully Machined and Prepped Ford Racing Sportsmen with main support grdle

Crankshaft: Production 302

Stroke: 3.000"

Connecting Rods: Eagle I-Beam 5.090

Pistons: Probe Forged Replacement

Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller

Camshaft: Ford Anderson B-41

Lifters: Ford Motorsport Hydraulic Roller

Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock Performer

Rocker Arms: Scorpion 1.6 Roller

Intake: Edelbrock Performer 5.0

Throttle Body :BBK 75mm

Mass Air Meter:C and L housing With Pro M Sensor

Oil Pump: Melling High Volume

Oil Pan: Canton 7qt deep sump pan

Cooling: Proform Electric water pump, Griffin 3 core radiator with 3000cfm perma cool fan.

Fuel System: Ford Racing 42lb Injectors with BBK high flow Rails, Aeromotive Adj. Fpr, T-Rex in-line fuel pump with Walbro 255 in-tank. Jegs rail mount fuel pressure gauge.

Exhaust: BBK ceramic coated headers equal length, BBK off-road H pipe, Mac 2 chamber mufflers with turn downs.

 

 

Tansmission

Trans: Tremec TKO with Pro-50 short shifter

Clutch: Center Force Dual Friction

Driveshaft: FRPP Aluminum

Rearend: FRPP 3.73 with Strange Full spool and 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators. Summit Aluminum Diff Cover

 

Electronics

Engine Management: Stock Computer with Diablo Sport Tuner, Tuned By Brian Turner

Ignition: Msd 6AL with boost retard, Msd Super Conductor Wires, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Pro Billet Distributor, NGK Plugs Gapped @ .034 One heat range colder. Auto Meter SportComp Boost and Oil pressure gauges, Shift light.

Suspension and Chassis

Front

Springs: Eibach Pro

Shocks: Edelbrock Pro-Series

Steering: Flaming River manual rack and shaft Assembly

Wheels: Center Line Convo Pros

Brakes: Power-Stop Rotors with Thermo quiet Pads

Rear

Springs: Eibach Pro

Shocks: Edelbrock Pro-Series

Air Bag: Air Lift 1000 Airbag

Upper control Arms: HPM Mega Bite JR. with Welded Wild Rides Upper Battle Boxes

Lower control Arms: HPM Mega Bite JR.

Roll Bar: 8 point cage with M bar and X Brace all welded to frame and body, welded and bolted Subframe connectors.

Wheels: Center line Convo Pro

Brakes: Stock Drums with Thermo quite Shoes

 

SOOOOO.... My question is basically:

What do I need to change, and what is the most cost effective way to do this. I am not looking to dump a ton into the car. I might contact on3performance about a kit, but if there is a cheaper way to do it I am all ears.

Thanks in advance

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What kind of power are you looking to make with this combo? Besides for just spraying a car, I dont know of any other way to do a forced induction kit cheaper than what we offer. Even once you do a complete nitrous system, you can have just as much in it as our kit. You will have no problem making 500+ on this combo and the On3 70mm or mp70(both are about exact on specs)

 

If you go the turbo route and our kit, I would sell that maf and run our meter setup. Just will work out a little better for you as the kits designed for it and you will have to splice your meter in. Also depending on what pro-m sensor it is, you might be able to just buy the flange and use your actual sensor element

 

If you have questions just let me know or pm me, sometimes I forget to check threads

 

Looks like a fun project nonetheless

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What kind of power are you looking to make with this combo? Besides for just spraying a car, I dont know of any other way to do a forced induction kit cheaper than what we offer. Even once you do a complete nitrous system, you can have just as much in it as our kit. You will have no problem making 500+ on this combo and the On3 70mm or mp70(both are about exact on specs)

 

If you go the turbo route and our kit, I would sell that maf and run our meter setup. Just will work out a little better for you as the kits designed for it and you will have to splice your meter in. Also depending on what pro-m sensor it is, you might be able to just buy the flange and use your actual sensor element

 

If you have questions just let me know or pm me, sometimes I forget to check threads

 

Looks like a fun project nonetheless

I'm not big on HP #s. I am looking to trap 130 on pump gas. Shoot me a pm of what the least expensive route I could get there with one of your kits. I agree, your kit would be better than spray. I believe the cam

Setup is better matched for boost anyways.

 

Didn't see headstuds listed? They are safe assurance

Good catch. I'll make sure. I know he forgot to list some of the mods.

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If you have questions just let me know or pm me, sometimes I forget to check threads

 

Just quoting chad to quote him, but i saw one of his ON3 kits on a bone stock turbo fox the other weekend running 13lbs. That thing pulled hard on a stock ls1. Hard as in bus lengths hard lol

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Well my car made 620rwhp with a stock short block 302. I've got a guy who can build you a complete custom kit fairly cheap. My brother in law wouldn't go my route and he bought an on3 for his 01. It was pretty but we had to still take it to my guy and have it worked to get it to fit better and seal correctly. We had two cars at Tri State for the Cincy Speed street car shoot out. We took 1st and 2nd place. My car had a mp70 on 15lbs. Trapped 140
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It's so hard to build a car for trap speed cuz who knows if you can drive.

 

I only make 420rwhp and trap 126 so if chads kit will get you 500 you should be good to go again if you can drive

I've usually found cars tend to trap based on power, and ET based on power, suspension/tire, and driver. Example I know a guy with a 130 mph car that runs 11s. When a good driver hops in it still traps 130, but ET is in the 10s. I usually hate dyno numbers because so many of them read different. They are a tuning tool period.

 

Everyone is missing two things in this thread, 1st there are mentions of the word CHEAP waaaay to many times.

 

Secondly no one is mentioning MLS head-gaskets...

I know you can't go fast without spending money. Replace cheap with "least expensive" I guess. I was just looking for a list of what i need to do and change without getting ridiculous. Chad suggested I replace the meter and that's the kind of suggestions I was looking for. The only reason I mentioned cheapest was because building the motor different might net more power, but I'm not looking to throw that kind of money into it.

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I won't run a mls head gasket. His somethings going to give I want the head gasket to be first

 

What do you run then, hopes and dreams? I lifted my head and spit my gasket at 8lbs last year.

 

You won't find a cheaper kit then Chad's got. Also, as mentioned, mls gasket if it doesn't have one and head studs. Other then that I wouldn't think that it needs much else, you got the transmission and driveline squared away so you're one up on me. I am on going on my 3rd t5 and 2nd clutch of the season. I spend more time installing shit then driving anymore.

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What about replacing your oil pump and rod bearings once the coolant in your oil destroys your bottom end.

 

No need. Change the oil with some cheap oil, run for 15 min, than change it with good oil and you will be fine as long as you dont keep driving the car with a blown headgasket. I'll take a blown head gasket over a hole in the piston any day. If you burn a hole in the piston than you might mess up the head also.

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Pretty sure I'm going with an on3 kit

 

I'm down to this I think

What turbo should i get?

From what I've read it looks like I'll need about 12lbs of boost to be where I want. Are these injectors enough?

And who should I have tune it?

 

Mp70. 60lb injectors, 15lbs of boost, I like cincy speed but I also don't know where you are from

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