2highpsi Posted September 24, 2010 Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 I have built quite a few cars. Some V8, some turbo, but not a turbo V8. I bought this car from a friend of mine just because I couldn't pass the deal up. It is a built 93 GT Mustang. He is taking off the supercharger because I wanted to turbo it anyways. http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o367/stoneman2006/mustang11k003.jpg Here are the major mods: (copy and paste from the sale info he gave me) http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o367/stoneman2006/mustang11k013.jpg Motor Block: Fully Machined and Prepped Ford Racing Sportsmen with main support grdle Crankshaft: Production 302 Stroke: 3.000" Connecting Rods: Eagle I-Beam 5.090 Pistons: Probe Forged Replacement Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller Camshaft: Ford Anderson B-41 Lifters: Ford Motorsport Hydraulic Roller Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock Performer Rocker Arms: Scorpion 1.6 Roller Intake: Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Throttle Body :BBK 75mm Mass Air Meter:C and L housing With Pro M Sensor Oil Pump: Melling High Volume Oil Pan: Canton 7qt deep sump pan Cooling: Proform Electric water pump, Griffin 3 core radiator with 3000cfm perma cool fan. Fuel System: Ford Racing 42lb Injectors with BBK high flow Rails, Aeromotive Adj. Fpr, T-Rex in-line fuel pump with Walbro 255 in-tank. Jegs rail mount fuel pressure gauge. Exhaust: BBK ceramic coated headers equal length, BBK off-road H pipe, Mac 2 chamber mufflers with turn downs. Tansmission Trans: Tremec TKO with Pro-50 short shifter Clutch: Center Force Dual Friction Driveshaft: FRPP Aluminum Rearend: FRPP 3.73 with Strange Full spool and 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators. Summit Aluminum Diff Cover Electronics Engine Management: Stock Computer with Diablo Sport Tuner, Tuned By Brian Turner Ignition: Msd 6AL with boost retard, Msd Super Conductor Wires, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Pro Billet Distributor, NGK Plugs Gapped @ .034 One heat range colder. Auto Meter SportComp Boost and Oil pressure gauges, Shift light. Suspension and Chassis Front Springs: Eibach Pro Shocks: Edelbrock Pro-Series Steering: Flaming River manual rack and shaft Assembly Wheels: Center Line Convo Pros Brakes: Power-Stop Rotors with Thermo quiet Pads Rear Springs: Eibach Pro Shocks: Edelbrock Pro-Series Air Bag: Air Lift 1000 Airbag Upper control Arms: HPM Mega Bite JR. with Welded Wild Rides Upper Battle Boxes Lower control Arms: HPM Mega Bite JR. Roll Bar: 8 point cage with M bar and X Brace all welded to frame and body, welded and bolted Subframe connectors. Wheels: Center line Convo Pro Brakes: Stock Drums with Thermo quite Shoes SOOOOO.... My question is basically: What do I need to change, and what is the most cost effective way to do this. I am not looking to dump a ton into the car. I might contact on3performance about a kit, but if there is a cheaper way to do it I am all ears. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDHG940 Posted September 24, 2010 Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 What kind of power are you looking to make with this combo? Besides for just spraying a car, I dont know of any other way to do a forced induction kit cheaper than what we offer. Even once you do a complete nitrous system, you can have just as much in it as our kit. You will have no problem making 500+ on this combo and the On3 70mm or mp70(both are about exact on specs) If you go the turbo route and our kit, I would sell that maf and run our meter setup. Just will work out a little better for you as the kits designed for it and you will have to splice your meter in. Also depending on what pro-m sensor it is, you might be able to just buy the flange and use your actual sensor element If you have questions just let me know or pm me, sometimes I forget to check threads Looks like a fun project nonetheless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NXfedRam Posted September 24, 2010 Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 Didn't see headstuds listed? They are safe assurance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2highpsi Posted September 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 What kind of power are you looking to make with this combo? Besides for just spraying a car, I dont know of any other way to do a forced induction kit cheaper than what we offer. Even once you do a complete nitrous system, you can have just as much in it as our kit. You will have no problem making 500+ on this combo and the On3 70mm or mp70(both are about exact on specs) If you go the turbo route and our kit, I would sell that maf and run our meter setup. Just will work out a little better for you as the kits designed for it and you will have to splice your meter in. Also depending on what pro-m sensor it is, you might be able to just buy the flange and use your actual sensor element If you have questions just let me know or pm me, sometimes I forget to check threads Looks like a fun project nonetheless I'm not big on HP #s. I am looking to trap 130 on pump gas. Shoot me a pm of what the least expensive route I could get there with one of your kits. I agree, your kit would be better than spray. I believe the cam Setup is better matched for boost anyways. Didn't see headstuds listed? They are safe assurance Good catch. I'll make sure. I know he forgot to list some of the mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fubar231 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 If you have questions just let me know or pm me, sometimes I forget to check threads Just quoting chad to quote him, but i saw one of his ON3 kits on a bone stock turbo fox the other weekend running 13lbs. That thing pulled hard on a stock ls1. Hard as in bus lengths hard lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 You MAY be able to peice a kit together cheaper than cutting a check to chad but the added trouble and hassle when shit is not correct or what not is just not worth the hassle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDHG940 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 You MAY be able to peice a kit together cheaper than cutting a check to chad but the added trouble and hassle when shit is not correct or what not is just not worth the hassle Wow, such a different person face to face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirks5oh Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Wow, such a different person face to face. ?? seems like he's endorsing your kit, and not the chinabay kits we see for $1200 and know completely suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Wow, such a different person face to face. huh? I am pretty sure I have not met you in person ether Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDHG940 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 huh? I am pretty sure I have not met you in person ether You have a silver Cummins truck? If so, you talk my ear off about trucks every time I see you. If not, my fault and about the misunderstanding, too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Nope not me. Only way you kinda know me is I bought dans 68 cougar. I was told he is good friends with the tube shop so I assume u as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTHER91 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 It's so hard to build a car for trap speed cuz who knows if you can drive. I only make 420rwhp and trap 126 so if chads kit will get you 500 you should be good to go again if you can drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metcalf Racing Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Well my car made 620rwhp with a stock short block 302. I've got a guy who can build you a complete custom kit fairly cheap. My brother in law wouldn't go my route and he bought an on3 for his 01. It was pretty but we had to still take it to my guy and have it worked to get it to fit better and seal correctly. We had two cars at Tri State for the Cincy Speed street car shoot out. We took 1st and 2nd place. My car had a mp70 on 15lbs. Trapped 140 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonkiller Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Everyone is missing two things in this thread, 1st there are mentions of the word CHEAP waaaay to many times. Secondly no one is mentioning MLS head-gaskets... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2highpsi Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 It's so hard to build a car for trap speed cuz who knows if you can drive. I only make 420rwhp and trap 126 so if chads kit will get you 500 you should be good to go again if you can drive I've usually found cars tend to trap based on power, and ET based on power, suspension/tire, and driver. Example I know a guy with a 130 mph car that runs 11s. When a good driver hops in it still traps 130, but ET is in the 10s. I usually hate dyno numbers because so many of them read different. They are a tuning tool period. Everyone is missing two things in this thread, 1st there are mentions of the word CHEAP waaaay to many times. Secondly no one is mentioning MLS head-gaskets... I know you can't go fast without spending money. Replace cheap with "least expensive" I guess. I was just looking for a list of what i need to do and change without getting ridiculous. Chad suggested I replace the meter and that's the kind of suggestions I was looking for. The only reason I mentioned cheapest was because building the motor different might net more power, but I'm not looking to throw that kind of money into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metcalf Racing Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Everyone is missing two things in this thread, 1st there are mentions of the word CHEAP waaaay to many times. Secondly no one is mentioning MLS head-gaskets... I won't run a mls head gasket. His somethings going to give I want the head gasket to be first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miller Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 I won't run a mls head gasket. His somethings going to give I want the head gasket to be first What do you run then, hopes and dreams? I lifted my head and spit my gasket at 8lbs last year. You won't find a cheaper kit then Chad's got. Also, as mentioned, mls gasket if it doesn't have one and head studs. Other then that I wouldn't think that it needs much else, you got the transmission and driveline squared away so you're one up on me. I am on going on my 3rd t5 and 2nd clutch of the season. I spend more time installing shit then driving anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEMAN1647545504 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 I won't run a mls head gasket. His somethings going to give I want the head gasket to be first Amen brotha. Easier and cheaper to replace a head gasket than a motor. I like using Fel Pro #375-1011-2 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fubar231 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Amen brotha. Easier and cheaper to replace a head gasket than a motor. I like using Fel Pro #375-1011-2 . What about replacing your oil pump and rod bearings once the coolant in your oil destroys your bottom end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 What about replacing your oil pump and rod bearings once the coolant in your oil destroys your bottom end. If you are alert and pay attn that does not happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEMAN1647545504 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 What about replacing your oil pump and rod bearings once the coolant in your oil destroys your bottom end. No need. Change the oil with some cheap oil, run for 15 min, than change it with good oil and you will be fine as long as you dont keep driving the car with a blown headgasket. I'll take a blown head gasket over a hole in the piston any day. If you burn a hole in the piston than you might mess up the head also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2highpsi Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Pretty sure I'm going with an on3 kit I'm down to this I think What turbo should i get? From what I've read it looks like I'll need about 12lbs of boost to be where I want. Are these injectors enough? And who should I have tune it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metcalf Racing Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Glad to see some people with common sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Dyno brian for tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metcalf Racing Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Pretty sure I'm going with an on3 kit I'm down to this I think What turbo should i get? From what I've read it looks like I'll need about 12lbs of boost to be where I want. Are these injectors enough? And who should I have tune it? Mp70. 60lb injectors, 15lbs of boost, I like cincy speed but I also don't know where you are from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.