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Ugh...LS1 crank pulley came apart.


TurboGoKart

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evan a gen one motor has crank wodruff keys to keep the pulley from spinning and backing the bolt out. and they make a lot less power stock well most of them do.

b when i get the ati im pinning mine.! one less thing to worry about.

and balancer bolts are tty so why would anyone reuse them.

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you are proving yourself to know very little about cars. you continue to argue with out backing anything up while there is plenty of cases where the balancer will spin and back out the bolt without pinning. now while on a stock car the pin kit isn't necessary but in high horse engine its a must.

 

Aren't you a GM tech? How many of the LS based engines are pinned or keyed from the factory? What factors in a high hp engine would exacerbate balancer slippage over a stock engine minus rpm?

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Aren't you a GM tech? How many of the LS based engines are pinned or keyed from the factory? What factors in a high hp engine would exacerbate balancer slippage over a stock engine minus rpm?

 

well since the '05 vettes had the problem with the balancer bolt backing out i would say 400 fwhp can be border line. there was a TSB about throwing a belt on corvettes because the balancer bolts come loose. TSB 05-06-01-001A.

 

maybe you know more than everyone and everyone who has seen or had a balancer spin on the crank shaft is wrong. maybe you can explain to to me why a balancer that can be fully installed with a block of wood and a hammer (that has to be a really pressed fit if that will do it right?) and a single bolt torqued to a min of 239 ft. lbs. won't come off. please show me proof of your reason.

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Tell me you are installing balancers with a block of wood and a hammer. What was the remedy from GM on the Vette TSB? Lets get outta this pissing match. I agree that pinning a crank won't hurt any application. However, the only issue I have ever seen with a vehicle over 600whp was the boosted RX7 that reused the crank bolt. The balancer was reinstalled and a new factory bolt was used to affix it. That was over a year ago, in a vehicle that gets heavy usage and track time with zero issues.

 

Maybe you can answer me this: Do any of the high end turbo kits come with a crank pinning kit? Or is it recommended? Every blower kit will either come with a kit or highly recommend one.

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don't know never installed a turbo kit on a car every blower kit i've installed came with a pin kit. maybe you just need to look into it more and see that this is a common problem not just a way to make money off of people. i made my own pin kit so nobody made money off of me anyways.

 

depends on the car if i can get the tool in or not to install the balancer. sometimes you just can't use the tool to put the balancer on.

 

GM has a new bolt with thread locker on the shoulder to help. they also want it torqued to 250 ft. lbs. some 20 ft. lbs. over spec.

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don't know never installed a turbo kit on a car every blower kit i've installed came with a pin kit. maybe you just need to look into it more and see that this is a common problem not just a way to make money off of people. i made my own pin kit so nobody made money off of me anyways.

 

depends on the car if i can get the tool in or not to install the balancer. sometimes you just can't use the tool to put the balancer on.

 

GM has a new bolt with thread locker on the shoulder to help. they also want it torqued to 250 ft. lbs. some 20 ft. lbs. over spec.

 

Agreed, Blower cars are the ones that will benefit the most from the pin kit, and as far as I know, the GM bolts have always had the thread locker on the shoulder. Thats where I think a bulk of these problems come from, installing the bolt with loctite on only the threads of the bolt. I think we are getting on the same page so, Happy New Year.

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That made me laugh. The torque of a nitrous shot has nothing to do with the balancer, now the input shaft of the tranny might feel that way. Crank pinning is mostly used for blower cars. They create the most load on the crank pulley, as you are spinning another item that increases in load with rpm. The accessory drive doesn't create a huge load, which is why GM doesn't pin the cranks.

 

Oh really. You obviously dont know anything about how the pulley actually catasrtophically flies off. Dont try and make me feel stupid because you dont know what you're talking about.....

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Oh really. You obviously dont know anything about how the pulley actually catasrtophically flies off. Dont try and make me feel stupid because you dont know what you're talking about.....

 

Spell check and maybe you won't feel stupid.

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If you are pressing the pulley on, that's problem #1. It should be heated and seated, not hammered in place.

 

This isn't very accurate, while you're right it's not to be hammered on, but pressing it on is the correct way just take the right tool, a harmonic balancer installer or a long bolt to pull it on. No need to heat anything.

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This isn't very accurate, while you're right it's not to be hammered on, but pressing it on is the correct way just take the right tool, a harmonic balancer installer or a long bolt to pull it on. No need to heat anything.

 

The TSB I have states a mild heat then slip it on, finish press with an installer. Though the finish press is rarely needed since after the mild heat, it slips right on without an issue. You don't need to make it hot, just warm enough to handle with mechanics gloves.

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The TSB I have states a mild heat then slip it on, finish press with an installer. Though the finish press is rarely needed since after the mild heat, it slips right on without an issue. You don't need to make it hot, just warm enough to handle with mechanics gloves.

 

This is how I do stock balancers. Aftermarkets I press on. But, if Antwon will let me work on his cars, I will use the block of wood and BFH method.

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i always use a balncer install tool. very simple to use. the real question is im gona do ati underdrive setup but how much to underdrive???? thats the real question here??

 

i had 25% on the vette and never had a problem.

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This is how I do stock balancers. Aftermarkets I press on. But, if Antwon will let me work on his cars, I will use the block of wood and BFH method.

 

Mine never failed, can't wait to walk ur slomaro this coming season. I'll give you a 1/8 mile head start

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i always use a balncer install tool. very simple to use. the real question is im gona do ati underdrive setup but how much to underdrive???? thats the real question here??

 

The ATIs are very nice units. Out of curiosity, how much do you plan to put in your build?

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Mine never failed, can't wait to walk ur slomaro this coming season. I'll give you a 1/8 mile head start

 

1/8th mile headstart? Thats awful generous of ya, and I will take it. Since you run 3.68 in the 1/4 that will put us dead even at the line. BTW:Are you still working at ,

http://images4.cpcache.com/product/weed-video+games-stoner/65071704v16_225x225_Front.jpg

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duno exact cost racer prices yet. but long tubes, ofy, full exh, lid, air filter, bellows, and pulley. proably some summer wheels and tires maybe next season though. its jsut going to be a driver never raced ill be racing the s10 and blazer with some spray. they take all my money i wana run low 8s in the s10 and low 10s in the blazer.
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duno exact cost racer prices yet. but long tubes, ofy, full exh, lid, air filter, bellows, and pulley. proably some summer wheels and tires maybe next season though. its jsut going to be a driver never raced ill be racing the s10 and blazer with some spray. they take all my money i wana run low 8s in the s10 and low 10s in the blazer.

 

Cool, my thought was ditching the balancer and camming that thing. Cost would be in the same neighborhood and alot more return on the cam.

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i would but i plan on driving it daily too. i thought about a vette cam. or something along those lines. maybe a yr or two. mostly wana prevent failures when driving long distances. dont wana be sitting on the side of the road because of a balancer.
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