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383 build


pontiacfreak142

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So im finally getting some money together to start my 383 build. I am doing this on some what of a budget which kinda sucks because i would love to build a 10 second car, but maybe later.

 

here is the parts list so far of stuff i will be picking up shortly and/or as money allows:

 

64 cc heads with 2.02/1.60 valves with 190cc intake runner

comp cam 284/296 dur. .507/.510 lift (liking this cam, but may just call camp after i get everything else and just see what they think)

eagle 383 stroker crank

scat 4340 forged i beam rods

studs for everything

holley 750 carb

 

some things im not sure of yet:

pistons

intake mani

transmission

 

I went to jegs and had one of the guys there recommend some dome top hypereutectic pistons, but with 64 cc heads they have a CR of 11.8:1. i have 2 issues with this. 1 being that the crank i have is rated to a little over 500 hp with main studs, so i have to keep the power under that, and i dont care to use race gas. Is it even possible to run that high compression on 93 octane?

 

the intake im just waiting to get everything else together so i can figur out what i need.

 

I also have 2 transmissions. first being the one i want to use, my 4l60 that already in the car. if i use it, it will be getting 4l65 internals and a full manuel valve body. this all assuming it will even hook up to the 350 block.

 

if not, i already have a built Turbo 400 sitting in the garage.

 

any opinions are welcome. will get picks up as i go.

 

oh and keeping my fingers crossed that my luck continues the way is has been with this build. so far i have $55 dollars invested and have a good block, water pump, holley 750 carb and the built turbo 400 trans lol.

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go with a smaller carb, some may dispute this, but trust me it'll like it more. Highest CR i would run with aluminum heads is 11:1 if your lucky, 10.5 pushes your luck with iron heads. Also full manual valve body in a 700r4/4l60(e) is a big no no, there are alot of transmission failures related to them. Also pick a smaller cam, thats a really healthy cam for a SBC, especially if it sees any street use.
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a V6 4L60E is different than a V8 4L60E.

 

since your only able to build to 500hp your just wasting your money building that small block. just buy a 6.0L from the junk yard and swap it in. heads and cam on those and your over 500 flywheel.

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If you're shooting for 400+, be prepared to have the heads cleaned up. It's a decent head out of the box, but there is a lot left on the table with them. Even at 11.8 I'm gonna say you'll hit 430ish maybe 450 on a perfect tune. Run a Performer Air Gap intake, go with a solid lifter cam. With modern lobe profiles the way they are there will be very little adjusting on them. Even with a ton of street driving. Stick with a Flat top, or dished piston. With the smaller Combustion Chamber size, Zero deck the block, get it line honed, .039 HG like a Fel Pro 1010.

 

Run a piston like this:

9.7:1

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=94

or

11:1

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=99

 

This cam will do well.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-663-47/

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a V6 4L60E is different than a V8 4L60E.

 

since your only able to build to 500hp your just wasting your money building that small block. just buy a 6.0L from the junk yard and swap it in. heads and cam on those and your over 500 flywheel.

 

Not saying your wrong, as i dont know, but i cant imagine just an old 350 would make that much power with just heads and cam. especially being that its not gonna be a crazy build by any means.

 

nickey, yes it is a 2 bolt main block. the main reason i say limited to around 500 is because thats what the crank is rated at.

 

AJ, i know the trans are deifferent, but i wasnt sure if they has anywhere near the same bolt pattern or not.

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If you're shooting for 400+, be prepared to have the heads cleaned up. It's a decent head out of the box, but there is a lot left on the table with them. Even at 11.8 I'm gonna say you'll hit 430ish maybe 450 on a perfect tune. Run a Performer Air Gap intake, go with a solid lifter cam. With modern lobe profiles the way they are there will be very little adjusting on them. Even with a ton of street driving. Stick with a Flat top, or dished piston. With the smaller Combustion Chamber size, Zero deck the block, get it line honed, .039 HG like a Fel Pro 1010.

 

Run a piston like this:

9.7:1

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=94

or

11:1

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=99

 

This cam will do well.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-663-47/

 

thanks for the link, i like the specs on that cam. i like the 11.1 on the pistons, is that ok though, or should try for a little lower if im running the 93 gas?

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i love me some LSX, but i want something different.

 

 

50 years of development is not different. It's a proven platform. With the duration on that cam you'll keep the timing under or at 28* on 93, you may have to spike it a bit. That and have a slow advance curve in it.

 

(Gonna rile the mob here)

 

Out of the box the Gen 3's are a better motor, but with similar dollars spent a gen 1 with modern heads, induction, and valvetrain will post comparable numbers.

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If you're going that route throw the 4L60 out of your car in the trash, I'd also consider finding a t-350 because it sounds like the t-400 would be overkill and rob some power.

 

I don't know as much about making power in the old small blocks as I've researched LS1s which is why I'd go find a used 5.3 longblock and make that 350-400hp on pump gas with modern fuel injection and technology for the same money. Just get a 5.3 engine, trans, PCM, and harness out of a truck then all you need is a car intake and headers. You can find people's stock LS1 parts out of their cars for next to nothing, LS1 intakes, stock k-members, ect.

 

My advice if you're really going to stick with this old SBC idea would be to look at the packages places put together and buy similar parts. I'd buy a Summit brand stroker kit if I were you, plenty of options and since you aren't looking to make much power it'll save you some money and be plenty for 400hp or so.

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what heads do you have? could proably use some small port work. sounds like a good build i dont think the cam u picked is too large for a 383 at all. sound small to me but i like to spin them. if ur crank is cast u can make more than 500 hp. but you need a good tune. keep away from detonation and u should be good on up. most of your sportsman circle track classes require cast cranks and they are well over 500 hp.
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50 years of development is not different. It's a proven platform. With the duration on that cam you'll keep the timing under or at 28* on 93, you may have to spike it a bit. That and have a slow advance curve in it.

 

(Gonna rile the mob here)

 

Out of the box the Gen 3's are a better motor, but with similar dollars spent a gen 1 with modern heads, induction, and valvetrain will post comparable numbers.

 

true, i meant more along the lines of, alot of people swap in LSX's, but not many gen 1's.

 

scott, getting away from fuel injection and computers is alot of the reason i am going this route. you know better than most that i bracket race alot. My car now is deffinately a pretty consistant car, but as soon as weather changes just a little, my times go all over the place.

 

i cant remember the name of the heads right now and dont have my jegs book here with me. i just know they are aluminum with angled plugs (just what the description says with said specs in the first post.

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what heads do you have? could proably use some small port work. sounds like a good build i dont think the cam u picked is too large for a 383 at all. sound small to me but i like to spin them. if ur crank is cast u can make more than 500 hp. but you need a good tune. keep away from detonation and u should be good on up. most of your sportsman circle track classes require cast cranks and they are well over 500 hp.

 

good to know. i did kind of think that was a little low even for a cast unit. i know its a different motor and all, but hell ive seen the stock cast cranks in these 3800's stand up to almost 1000 hp.

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its all in the tune. the stock 2 bolt blocks are a stronger main web but without going to 4 bolt splayed caps u wont really get to take advantage of that. use arp and w 2 bolt caps i wouldnt get scared at 500. 600 id worry about them walking and killing bearings, id recomend king bearings for ur build over reg tri metal ones.
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its all in the tune. the stock 2 bolt blocks are a stronger main web but without going to 4 bolt splayed caps u wont really get to take advantage of that. use arp and w 2 bolt caps i wouldnt get scared at 500. 600 id worry about them walking and killing bearings, id recomend king bearings for ur build over reg tri metal ones.

 

where can you get those king bearings at?

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