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DIY short stacks and PAIR Valve block off


Hoblick
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short stacks:

after doing some searching and looking into the graves velocity stacks (retail for $99) i found a few people that are running 4 of the stock short intake runners on their R6's. even some mentioning that in some classes of racing factory riders are not allowed to use aftermarket stacks, and use 4 short factory stacks as well, with great gains.

so i figured why the hell now try it out.

first off i went online and found a micro fiche. found the part i needed and wrote the part number down, then went to honda northwest and had them order the short stacks.

part number is as follows for anyone interested FUNNEL 5SL-14479-00-00

just order 2 of these, they are like $3.00 a piece

anywho..

first off i unbolted the tank and just tilted it up in order to take the top of the air box off.

then pull your filter out.

now youll see the stock stacks in there.

in this pic you can see i already removed one of the long stacks (inner stacks)

SL370884.jpg

give them a tug and they just pull right out, which then leaves it looking like this

SL370885.jpg

your next task is to install the short stacks you ordered. here is a comparison of the stacks. the short ones are the exact same as the ones that are still in your air box.

SL370885.jpg

SL370887.jpg

these pretty much just push in, you may need to stick your finger on the inside of the stack and kinda push it in a bit. for reference on how they should fit just run your finger on the inside of the ones that are already installed. and take note on how they look on the outside as well for comparison.

after your done youll have this

SL370888.jpg

pretty easy, straight forward mod. and helps your mid to top range power without sacrificing alot of your low end, unlike the graves stacks. infact graves suggest if you dont want all top end hp, 2 just use 2 of there short stacks on the outside and move the factory short stacks to the inside.

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ok onto the PAIR VALVE, this is semi finished because its late and i have no where to get a few things i needed but moving on.

ok well again im not spending $100 to block my pair valve off, so i just figured id try an alternative approach.

1st off take your tank all the way off. disconnect the couplers and your fuel lines. and then set your tank out of the way.

next you want to take your airbox out. now you can take the lid off, or leave it on, doesnt matter, although with the lid off it makes it easier to reinstall. but i had mine off already so we will go from there.

to get the bottom of the air box off you want to loosen the hex head bolts on the clamps to the throttle bodies. then unscrew the 10mm bolt that holds the airbox down up front.

bull the airbox off and disconnect any couplers or hoses from it. sometimes i like to tape and label hoses if im not sure ill remember where they will go.

disconnect your ram air ducts as well

remove your air box and set it out of the way.

now on top of your valve cover there will be 2 aluminum housing looking things with hoses and hose clamps on them. remove the clamp and pull the hose off. here is what your left with here.

left side

SL370889.jpg

right side

SL370890.jpg

now those hoses go to your pair valve

which is this

SL370891.jpg

as you can see in the picture it has a coupler, disconnect the coupler and pull that bad boy out.

now youll need to plug those holes that are in the first pics

i havent gotten to this yet cause the parts store isnt open.

but i am going to basically get 2 hose clamps, and some rubber hose caps to block off those holes. on the RC51 forum they actually remove the valve and JB weld the holes up.

so whatever your pleasure i guess.

after that the only thing left to do is plug the hole in the airbox that the hose from the pair valve went to.

which i will do in the same fashion. a rubber hose cap and a hose clamp.

then assemble everything in reverse. and your done!

Now you can enjoy no backfiring, and a true A/F reading on the dyno which result in a better tune.

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I could be wrong but I thought the whole idea behind the staggered stacks was to provide a balanced air delivery? In evening them out wouldn't you defeat the purpose?

Either way great writeup! I've never had to patience to take pictures when I tear stuff apart. lol

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I could be wrong but I thought the whole idea behind the staggered stacks was to provide a balanced air delivery? In evening them out wouldn't you defeat the purpose?

Either way great writeup! I've never had to patience to take pictures when I tear stuff apart. lol

well using short stacks are supposed to , smooth out the power curve, increase horsepower, and increase fuel efficiency according to graves.

http://www.gravesport.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=AB__009

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I would have left the inner two cylinders stacks alone, the airbox on a bike are very dependent on the frames and whatnot so they are designed to have a certain height. Essentially due to the firing order you are going to loose some torque and power from likely down low

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I would have left the inner two cylinders stacks alone, the airbox on a bike are very dependent on the frames and whatnot so they are designed to have a certain height. Essentially due to the firing order you are going to loose some torque and power from likely down low

yes i will loose a little down low. but i will gain some mid and top end range power.

all this will get worked out once brian dyno tunes the bike anyway.

ill get to see the comparison from my stock graph and see what happens.

if i dont like what i see ill put the taller ones back in, takes only a few minutes and im only out $6.

but from the reviews i have read these help out quite nicely

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im sure one of the pros will chime in on this, but ive always heard stacks are a waste of money

again if the short stacks end up being a loss.. im out $6.00

hence why i choose this route instead of the graves stacks.

only the dyno will tell

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I would have left the inner two cylinders stacks alone, the airbox on a bike are very dependent on the frames and whatnot so they are designed to have a certain height. Essentially due to the firing order you are going to loose some torque and power from likely down low

Agreed, you'll most likely have a dip in your power curve in the mid range. It can be smoothed out, but not avoided.

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I'm very interest to hear how this works out for you once you get some dyno numbers. I'm planning on doing some stack/subthrottle plate modding on my bike next weekend, but it's all very shot in the dark type stuff.

My reasoning is; if it would give performance gains across the board, wouldn't those crazy Japanese engineers who design bikes for a living have thought of it before us? I assume there has to be some trade-off, but it's hard to tell without numbers.

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well i did complete my install, and i really didnt notice any difference one way or the other.

although i didnt really open it up alot since i had the wife on the back.

but i didnt notice that much if any at all power loss down low.. atleast from the seat of my pants.

the pair valve block off works like a charm, and cost me a total of $8 for the hose caps, and hose clamps.

no more backfire on decel. And now it can be dyno tuned correctly.

if your reading this brian, ill be calling you about the tune in the next day or so.

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Waste of money and the dyno will show nothing. You'd need to run it stock and then immediately again modded. Two different days and different numbers (+ or -) could be relating to the day and elements as opposed to the mods...

Oh, and ANY racer doing Superstock or Supersport are NOT allowed these mods. It is a modification of the airbox and is illegal.

Can't speak for the Yami on this, but the PAIR mod/crankcase breather tube mod will result in a few ponies on GSXRs. Illegal for SS racing, of course, but an easy gain for you street guys...

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Waste of money and the dyno will show nothing. You'd need to run it stock and then immediately again modded. Two different days and different numbers (+ or -) could be relating to the day and elements as opposed to the mods...

Oh, and ANY racer doing Superstock or Supersport are NOT allowed these mods. It is a modification of the airbox and is illegal.

first off it cost me $6 for the short stacks, so im out nothing, and if it doesnt help at all / or hurts the performance then ill change it back, takes less than 30 min.

number 2, superstock can use them because they are FACTORY oem yamaha parts that come on the bike.

they just use 4 short ones instead of 2 short and 2 long.

and i only did the pair block off for dyno tuning purposes, i know you dont really gain any hp from it.

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first off it cost me $6 for the short stacks, so im out nothing, and if it doesnt help at all / or hurts the performance then ill change it back, takes less than 30 min.

number 2, superstock can use them because they are FACTORY oem yamaha parts that come on the bike.

they just use 4 short ones instead of 2 short and 2 long.

and i only did the pair block off for dyno tuning purposes, i know you dont really gain any hp from it.

You are not allowed to modify the airbox. Switching the middle stacks is adjusting the airbox...

That's like saying you can run the PAIR mod since you are only removing OEM parts... Or, as with the GSXRs, you can keep the OEM parts and simply connect them while still using OEM parts... NOT allowed...

The only airbox mod allowed is replacing the OEM filter with an EXACT style replacement like K&N, BMC, etc... Same size and fit, etc... Also allowed to plug the airbox drains... Trust me... Look at the rulebook. New DMG rules might be different than before, but WERA rules are still the same.

What you need to do is a stock passes for peak HP check, passes with the PAIR mod done, pull the PAIR mod and go back to stock and do the stacks and run passes. Then, with all the mods done...

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the pair mod alone doesnt add hp.. all it does is allow for a correct a/f reading when you dyno tune. as i stated numerous times already..

so yes it will help.. and it cost me $7 to complete.

ok you know more than i do about rules.. maybe they cant run that in ss.

but seriously do you have to shit on everyones thread mr. fucking no it all... i dont care that you race.. i dont care where you work.. just shut the fuck up.

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the pair mod alone doesnt add hp.. all it does is allow for a correct a/f reading when you dyno tune. as i stated numerous times already..

so yes it will help.. and it cost me $7 to complete.

ok you know more than i do about rules.. maybe they cant run that in ss.

but seriously do you have to shit on everyones thread mr. fucking no it all... i dont care that you race.. i dont care where you work.. just shut the fuck up.

well since you are not racing you can do whatever you want to your bike. I am sure it was worth the $7 to tinker on your bike. I guess I cant race my bike either so maybe we will just go for a ride on the streets:(

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the pair mod alone doesnt add hp.. all it does is allow for a correct a/f reading when you dyno tune. as i stated numerous times already..

so yes it will help.. and it cost me $7 to complete.

ok you know more than i do about rules.. maybe they cant run that in ss.

but seriously do you have to shit on everyones thread mr. fucking no it all... i dont care that you race.. i dont care where you work.. just shut the fuck up.

Hey dumb fuck. I don't shit in everyone's threads - only the guys like yourself that are saying shit that isn't correct. Your comments on them being allowed and the reasoning they are legal in S racing is WWRONG. I pointed that out and gave correct info. Why's that so upsetting to you? Oh, that's right... you hate being wrong...

Secondly, the PAIR mod on the GSXR which is connecting the PAIR hose to the crankcase breather hose DOES add HP. To the tune of about 2-3. Want to know how I know that? I have done it and about every other racer who runs a GSXR... Get over yourself. Never said it did on the Yamis... Why? I don't have experience on them, but I can find out from a knowledged source.

As far as dynoing, again... You're so fucking out of whack on your ideas. Your write up is great and all, but the thing is that you are NOT going to get an accurate idea of increase if you don't do it all at once. It takes literally an hour to do the mods you did with the valve and boots. You'd take the bike to the dealer stock, run it. Pull it off and add the PAIR mod. run it and see. Take it off the dyno, go back to stock and then add the boots. Take notes. Finally, add the PAIR mod and make runs. That gives you as good as you can get dyno runs and will know what the mods actually did.

Anyone with ANY fucking dyno experience would support that idea. Your results over stock are going to be poorly attained.

Dude, I am fine just giving out proper info for others so they aren't screwed if they think this is legal and they want to race. BUT, you always like to throw in the insults so, i jump on your throat. Back the hell off, dude. Unless you have something good to add, your info is tainted...

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yes... yes he does

Schmuck?? What?? Are you agreeing with this guy? I'm just pointing out that it isn't SS legal AS HE FUCKING STATED. He can do whatever he wants to his street bike, but there are some racers on here and they should know it ISN'T legal as HE STATED...

As far as the dyno goes, you should know better than most that he's doing it wrong to get accurate results...

So everyone understands... This is a cheap and inexpensive mod. Easy to do. However, to get proper results, you need to do this on the SAME day under as much of the same conditions as you can get to find results.

Sure, if nothing is accomplished, all you have is $10 into the thing. BUT, time is worth something, too and if it isn't worth the work, the time, the effort of getting the parts ordered, bought, put on, etc... Why do it?

It has shit to do with racing. Again, easy mod for anyone to do no matter what you ride and how you ride. BUT, my experience comes from racing. Sorry it does, but honestly, it's the only way I have learned so much. But, it gets tossed around as making me a know it all. 14 years in the industry has allowed me to garnish a ton of useless knowledge. I just try and make sure people get the right info. When they toss out wrong info and i correct it, I'm a dick, I guess. So, do what you all want. Anyone want to know the truth or to validate, give me a hollar. Meanwhile, I'll go ride my GSXR that has the stock velocity stacks...

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Schmuck?? What?? Are you agreeing with this guy? I'm just pointing out that it isn't SS legal AS HE FUCKING STATED. He can do whatever he wants to his street bike, but there are some racers on here and they should know it ISN'T legal as HE STATED...

As far as the dyno goes, you should know better than most that he's doing it wrong to get accurate results...

So everyone understands... This is a cheap and inexpensive mod. Easy to do. However, to get proper results, you need to do this on the SAME day under as much of the same conditions as you can get to find results.

Sure, if nothing is accomplished, all you have is $10 into the thing. BUT, time is worth something, too and if it isn't worth the work, the time, the effort of getting the parts ordered, bought, put on, etc... Why do it?

It has shit to do with racing. Again, easy mod for anyone to do no matter what you ride and how you ride. BUT, my experience comes from racing. Sorry it does, but honestly, it's the only way I have learned so much. But, it gets tossed around as making me a know it all. 14 years in the industry has allowed me to garnish a ton of useless knowledge. I just try and make sure people get the right info. When they toss out wrong info and i correct it, I'm a dick, I guess. So, do what you all want. Anyone want to know the truth or to validate, give me a hollar. Meanwhile, I'll go ride my GSXR that has the stock velocity stacks...

HAHA, no Mr. Coil I am not agreeing. I just was warning him how you do things, to most it looks like your shitting in a thread but if they actually read your post it has fact based on experience/text book answers.

I agree that its a worthless mod and I also agree that for 7 bones who cares, all I am concerned with if people search fort his topic they wont get either side of the story. I would rather have them see that the $7 dollars and half hour of hour can be spent on better HP mods like tons of stickers and chrome everything (Hoblick I am not cracking on you, its was a very informative and well done write up).

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lizard i did agree, i dont know much about rules and you are so you probably are correct about what your talking about.

again again again again..

the reason for the pair mod on my r is for one purpose only... to get correct a/f when it gets dyno tuned next sunday.

ill probably have brian dyno it with all 4 short stacks and then how is was stock and get a comparison.

i know im not gonna get much out of any modification i have done. bolt ons dont do a whole lot, but being able to get a correct a/f reading with the pair mod will help get a better tune, which i then will be able to have a nice smooth pwer curve and enjoy my street riding more.

this was just a write up to help some people save a few dollars and do it themselves.

and if the stack mod doesnt help out your out minimum of $6, instead of buying $100 graves set and really regretting your purchase.

ill post dyno results after its dynoed... both with the short stacks and stock stacks

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