SC300 - 2J swap

[Nate1647545505]

Have a friend deployed overseas that contacted me about the idea of a 2J swap. I don't know much about it, so I figured someone on here would be kind enough to note some key points.

[Crossle]

Contact or wait for Alex L or Biggu, more information than you could ever want b/w the 2 of them.

[Alex L.]

From Supraforums:

 

NA to TT Engine Swap

 

WE GOT THIS STICKIED !!! So no one should keep asking, HOW or WHAT DO I NEED, ETC. ETC.

 

TO SEE THE PICS .. CLICK THE RED UNDERLINED LINKS

 

Id just like to start of by saying that this swap is not that hard to perform, however it is more time consuming that technically difficult. Have patience and dont get frustrated and break things. You will pay for it later. Also this will work for NA to USDM TT or JDM TT. So DONT ASK IF IT WILL. Ive had to replace a heater core in one of my cars and pulled the engine out of the other to paint the engine bay, so the same basic concepts I used to perform my removals and installs should apply here.

 

Before we get started, If you perform this removal/install and you screw something up/break something, I in no way, shape or form am responsible for anything that you do to your vehicle. This is simply guidelines that you chose to follow, and in doing so you are responsible for your own actions. Good luck and hopefully you learn something !!

 

Whats needed:

 

TT Engine w/ Motor mounts

TT Ignitor

TT Resistor Pack

TT Radiator

TT Engine Wiring Harness

TT ECU

TT Fan or Electric Fans

Intercooler (Stock Side Mount or Aftermarket Intercooler)

Turbo Of your choice ( stock or aftermarket )

TT Fuel Pump ECU

New Fuel Pump(s)

Correct TT Tach ( Auto or 6 Speed )

 

~ ~ NOW TO THE REMOVAL ~ ~

 

Into the engine bay:

 

Lets start off by Disconnecting the battery and removing the battery tray.

Now release the fuel pressure by disconnecting the fuel line into the engine. Either try and plug it or have it drain into something.

Drain the cooling system, tranny fluids and engine oil.

Remove the hood.

Raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lower engine cover.

Remove lower fan shroud from radiator, then proceed to remove the radiator.

Begin now to disconnect all intake hoses from the intake manifold as well as any electrical plugs that are attached.

Remove the charcoal canister. (MikeVanLe's Tutorial)

Look around the engine and Disconnect necessary electircal connections and brackets, coolant hoses, and vacuum lines. Make sure no lines are now attached.

Remove the power steering pump bracket and Disconnect power steering line from brackets at lower front edge of engine.

Remove A/C compressor hose ( see AC Line pic )

Remove the exhaust.

 

Move to the interior of the car:

 

Go clean your hands so you dont get grease or shit in the car.

Once your back, remove the passenger's side scuff plate ( plastic panel that is by the passengers feet )

Pull the carpet back to access the stock ECU.

Remove the bolts (10mm) that secure the plastic ECU protector to the car.

Remove the bolts(10mm) that secure the ECU to the car.

Disconnect ECU (one unclips and the other has, thats right you guessed it, a 10mm bolt)

Now following that same electrical wiring harness upwards, trace all plugs that come off of it and disconnect them as we are replacing this harness.

Assuming you can remove the plastic panel that surrounds the shifter, do so to reveal the shifter assembly.

If were working with an auto, disconnect any electrical connections and unbolt it now. Than crawl your ass under the car and disconnect the shift lever from the control rod on the tranny.

If its manual, remove shift lever knob. Than with a screwdriver, pry shift lever panel upward from center console for access to shift lever boot. Remove bolts and shift lever boot.

 

Now crawl your ass under the car (if your on jackstands):

Remove cluch release cylinder with hose attached and set aside. Remove shift lever to shift linkage bolt/nut at the rear of the tranny. Remove shift lever bolts and shift lever.

I told you this is time consuming.

And while you are there disconnect the electrical connections coming from the engine wire harness.

Now place reference marks on the drive shaft companion flange for reassembly.

Disconnect the drive shaft, first at the drive shaft companion flange*** at the rear axle. (***You will see how the drive shaft has 6 bolts there, 3 are for where the drive shaft connects to the flange, and 3 more for the flange to the rear diff., you want to unbolt the 3 that connect from the flange to the rear diff.) You disconnected the wrong ones if when you take the drive shaft off you have what looks like 3 feet that can stand on the ground. You'll understand once you see it.

Now remove the drive shaft center bearing bolts while holding it up.

Pull the drive shaft toward the front of the vehicle until the companion flange clears centering pin located in center of flange on rear axle.

Now remove the drive shaft.

You can support the trans with a jack now.

Remove the trannymount to tranny crossmember nuts.

Remove the tranny crossmember.

Support the engine with a hois.

Remove engine mount to crossmember nuts. Easiest way is from under the front subframe. You will see one bolt for each side of the motor mount.

Lift engine and tranny from the beast.

 

There you go the engine and trans are out of the car.

 

 

Now, here is where we change our engine wiring harness. And the biggest pain in the ass.

 

 

 

If you want to skip taking out the dash disregard the next section and just jump down to Back Insid the Engine Bay

 

Back inside the car:

 

Remove the dash (check in the Supra Repair Manual) Take your time and dont break anything here. Remove all the bolts and plugs to get it off. Probably going to have to drop the steering column. Take off these 4 bolts

Once your dash is out remove the cross member brace that goes across the car. Start with the 3 bolts that connect to the car on the driver side ( see Drivers Side Brace pic ), the 3 bolts near the steering column ( see Steering Column Brace pic ) and than the 5 on the passenger side ( see Pass. Side Brace pic). Lightly pull the bar backward, toward the rear of the vehicle, and then pull out the passenger side door.

Ok the hard shit is out of the way. Now unbolt all bolts that secure the heater core to the firewall and any additional electrical plugs that connect to it. ( you can see some of the bolts in the brace pics, and there are 2 by the ECU )

 

Back into the engine bay:

Now go in the empty engine bay and unbolt the two bolts where the coolant from the engine enters the firewall. ( see To Heater Core pic )

Unbolt where the wiring harness goes through the firewall as well. ( see ECU n AC Lines pic )

And right near where the wiring harness goes through the firewall and off to the right you will see where the AC lines go into the car. Disconnect and unbolt everything there to free up the heater core inside the car. ( see ECU n AC Lines pic )

 

Back inside the car:

Now go back inside and everything should be unbolted and disconnected now.

Slightly pull the heater core, FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AREA, out enough room to pull the plugs from the ECU and such through the firewall where you just disconnected.

 

In the engine bay again:

 

Gently pull the wiring harness and all associated plugs through the firewal.

Once removed, insert the new wires through the same hole you just came out of. Its best to have help here so one can feed the plugs in and one can help pull them down.

After getting the plugs back inside the car bolt the harness back to the firewall and reinstall all bolts and such that you just took off in the reverse order we took them off.

 

To Reinstall check POST #8.

 

Supra Repair Manual - This May Be Your Best Friend With The Removal and Install !!

 

- Mike

SupraGodTT

 

 

Pakie can offer some firsthand information about TT swaps. Has your buddy considered going NA-T?

[Nate1647545505]

Thanks guys, I had mentioned about going NA-T, but wasn't sure of the power limitations.

[Alex L.]

There aren't any real limitations. The heads flow the same and the bottom ends are just as strong. People have been experimenting with stock compression (10:1) and E85 with great results. A few guys are over 500 I believe.

[Nate1647545505]

What's normally done with the NA-T engine control wise, AEM box?

[Alex L.]

That's the easiest, cheapest, and most well-documented. People have been experimenting with the Pro EFI systems lately too. Toyota wiring's well-documented, so any ECU option could work.