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4l60e ( automatic for most ls1 cars) stall converter question/tuning questions


Nicksredline

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so i might be purchessing a car with a 4l60e and i was wondering for a person who daily drives the car and tends to get on it every now and then how high of a stall should i be looking at? 2500+? i dont even know what the stock stall on the trans is currently.

 

will a higher stall help with keeping the transmission cool? or will it heat up more due to more sliping? i need to keep the fluid cool so i dont fry 3-4 gears ( very common in these transmissions). ive heard of guys running well over 500 tq on stock tranys with transmission coolers( Which this car has ) without issues and ive heard of people having problems with 400tq with the same coolers. the only diffrences i see are coverters in the car( i was thinking a higher stall would heat it up... but people with higher stalls transmissions are lasting longer. maby its just they are lucky and the lower coverter people are not but any info would be great.

 

i also heard having the transmision tuned is a big thing to do which i dident even know was possable so if anyone knows someone or some place i should bring it to that is good with the 4l60e and the ls1's i would be greatfull if you could point me in there direction( i dont have the car yet but when i finish my loan on my house i am going to purchess it).

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You sound confused, if we are talking about an LS1 car like an f-body, yes they are completely computer controlled, proper tuning is very important, higher stalls cause more heat to build up, even with a stock converter it makes the most heat inside an automatic transmission, coolers are a must, like anything else it'll make a difference how long it lasts based on how you drive it. The stock converter in an Ls1 car is about 1800, driving on the street as a daily driver, depending on camshaft and future mods, you'll get al kinds of opinions on this, but its my opinion that with a mostly stock or bolt-on car 2800-3000 would make it enjoyable and not get hot, some tuning would be a good idea.

 

I've done a lot of research on the topic, had a few different combos in my car converter wise, I tune my own, been through about 5 different 4L60s for various reasons, from being too weak, to overheating, or just plain old worn out. I've put a couple together, but wouldn't recommend that on a modified car, I think it's better to let someone who specializes in high performance trannys build one.

 

What else can I try to answer for you?

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Wow thanks a lot the car is a ls1 ,ls6 intake,66borg warner turbo, ( its the 89 supra on here for sale) do you think it will handel around 460 wtq ok or should I have it built or just put in a t56... I don't mind shifting it just has a 4l60e now and ide like to stick with it if I could. I just remember a few things about this tranny from when I was going to get a c5 corvette. Did you have your car tuned around here? ( if you would like to pm me with some people or places you recomend that would be great) thanks a lot nick. Btw the cowl is sexy looking on that car

 

 

Also money is tight...which is making me want to keep it stock( the transmission) aslong as possable...ile be doing atf changes often to help keep it in good working order. Anything elce beside a trany cooler that will help keep it cool...what trany fluid?

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Thanks, I tune my own car. With a turbo it'd be best to have the stall close to where it spools, if it spools early and you'll mostly street drive it I think you'd like a tighter converter with a lower stall rating. 460tq in a lighter car should last a while in theory, if you would build one there are alot of upgrades that the factory did that came along later in production so depending what it came out of it may or may not have this stuff. If its built with the latest factory stuff, (planetaries, sprag, ect), and some good clutches it'll have a good lifespan at that level so long as it was setup properly and tuned accordingly.

 

I currently have a Performabuilt level 3 4L65e and custom Circle D converter in my car. These parts are said to handle over 800rwhp, and since I make around 550rwhp it works great. The converter is rated at 4200 stall so it will get hot after some use, but it is still liveable being a lock-up converter, you just have to be mindfull of what's going on.

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I ran 500+ rwhp with a 3500 stall for years on a stock tranny and a gigantic cooler.

 

No, it wasn't daily driven.

 

You also haven't broken your 10 bolt either, come talk to me when you really drive your car hard.

 

Lets put it this way, Anthony cruises and makes a half dozen passes a year, Scott beats the shit out of his everytime its out of the garage which is about once a week.

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I've driven it plenty hard, even hot lapped it last year a few times.

 

You're just jealous because you can even break other people's cars :D

 

Well you're in a good mood today.

 

By hot lapping it you mean made one more pass before letting it sit for 2 hours?

 

I can break anything, so yes I have to build my stuff accordingly.

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You also haven't broken your 10 bolt either, come talk to me when you really drive your car hard.

 

Lets put it this way, Anthony cruises and makes a half dozen passes a year, Scott beats the shit out of his everytime its out of the garage which is about once a week.

 

:fuckyeah:

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i probably wont go to the track but maby 2 or 3 times a year more of a fun street rool car just get on the freeway and open her up( to 65 of course). also lets just say that 60 rools might be something i like will a stall hurt or help that?

 

what is a good reliable tranny for around 650 whp( cheap is also a factor.. obviously not cheap meaning junk but not the most expensive)

 

how much will stock ls1 bottom end hold before i get into doing connecting rods and pistons and other bottom end stuff\?) i could look it up but u seem to be very informative and i get numbers in a very wide range

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Well you're in a good mood today.

 

By hot lapping it you mean made one more pass before letting it sit for 2 hours?

 

I can break anything, so yes I have to build my stuff accordingly.

 

He's in a good mood because he is about to become a ricer when the new car gets here tomorrow. :gabe:

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also 3rd gen supras are anything but light... they are very pigish for there size i beleave curb weight of about 3400+lbs in the targa toped cars. lighter for the standard hard top cars( like the corvette, fixed top more ridged and ligher. targa not as ridged and heavier)
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i probably wont go to the track but maby 2 or 3 times a year more of a fun street rool car just get on the freeway and open her up( to 65 of course). also lets just say that 60 rools might be something i like will a stall hurt or help that?

 

The right stall puts you in the power band, simple as that, just ask anyone whos roll raced my car. I've spent lots of time perfecting the shift points in my car, when I go WOT the car gets in the right gear and jumps into the power. My car also works well at the track. You may give up some of that to make it drive nicer at part throttle unless it makes great power down low which you wouldn't need too big of a converter to begin with. For max performance your converter should be sized to the car's powerband, basically. For best street manners low end torque and a smaller stall work well, anywhere in between is up to you.

 

Most of it depends on your definition of streetable, and fun. I'd suggest riding with a few people with aftermarket converters in their cars, and take note of where their car makes power, that way you can see what you like.

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also 3rd gen supras are anything but light... they are very pigish for there size i beleave curb weight of about 3400+lbs in the targa toped cars. lighter for the standard hard top cars( like the corvette, fixed top more ridged and ligher. targa not as ridged and heavier)

 

Sounds like it would be close to an f-body then. Sorry I know nothing about Supras in general.

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yeah thanks alot i might have to do that... and by streatable i mean daily driven every day.. i was thinking like a 2500 ish area dependent on when my boost spike would be and also the gearing in the rear end is a 373.( i bleave stock turbo lsd in supras)
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yeah thanks alot i might have to do that... and by streatable i mean daily driven every day.. i was thinking like a 2500 ish area dependent on when my boost spike would be and also the gearing in the rear end is a 373.( i bleave stock turbo lsd in supras)

 

Well a lot of people including me would drive my Camaro everyday, most wouldn't. Some people want thier car to drive similar to stock to consider it a daily driver, like I said it depends on your idea of what counts as a daily.

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no no no lol i dont care how bad or rough it drives aslong as i can drive it reliably i guess i should say. i dont want to have to bring the stall to 5k every light ( haha) and launch it out of there. rilly i want a nice reliable car that is not going to take a crap on me when i buy it( buying a modded car never a great choice for reliable) but he said he daily drives it with no problems so hopefully i have the same luck.

 

mainly do you think the tranny is going to go out ( 70k miles roughly) lets say 420whp 450 tq ( should i bring the power down some?) or do you think it should be fine?

and thanks alot for all the help

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