Jump to content

Rust treatment options


zeitgeist57

Recommended Posts

I know everyone's got an opinion, but there are definitely some good Ohio guys used to dealing with rust on their projects on CR. I'm looking to finish and protect my Ford frame and underbody now that I have the powertrain out.

 

Specifically, I have some (but not too much) oil/dirt clumps up front on the frame, and K-member. Out back, scale and pitted rust is a little worse from caked-on dirt/mud and moisture, but the metal is still solid...for now.

 

Looking to:

1) Clean the metal - wire brush, and angle grinder/wire cup loose crap and rust

2) CHEMICAL CLEANER??? Eastwood's PRE, or Acetone/Xylene and a rag?

3) RUST CONVERTER??? Eastwood again?

Do I prime next?

4) RUST ENCAPSULATOR??? Eastwood or POR-15?

5) Paint/underbody coating

 

I am looking at Eastwood only because they are having a Black Friday sale on some of their product this week, and the reviews have generally been favorable. Thoughts on the process listed above and the products I should use?

 

Looking to PROTECT first, save money next, and make it look good lastly. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't speak of the other products you've mentioned, but I wouldn't waste my time with POR 15. I've tried it several times following all of the correct steps using their Metal Ready and Marine Clean, only to have the rust come back. It also doesn't stick to metal that isn't super rough. It has to be topcoated if it will seen any sunlight, as UV rays will destroy it. I've heard the Eastwood stuff is better, but I have no personal experience with it. I think overall the best you can do for this truck after you get it cleaned up and painted is to keep it out of the salt. Otherwise, it's going to rust no matter what you do. Hope this helps.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone have a home-grown recipe for neutralizing rust? Like, alcohol and baking soda mixed together? :)

 

I don't even need the 5+ step process if someone has just knocked down as much scale as they could and used a good paint/undercoat product with decent, multi-year results before rust came back again...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone have a home-grown recipe for neutralizing rust? Like, alcohol and baking soda mixed together? :)

 

I don't even need the 5+ step process if someone has just knocked down as much scale as they could and used a good paint/undercoat product with decent, multi-year results before rust came back again...

 

What is the plan for the truck? Year round use, or spring, summer and fall?

 

I had the body off the frame of my 51 Plymouth back in 1993. I degreased everything, cleaned all of the loose rust/scale off the frame and components using a grinder and wire wheels, and then followed up with Rust Oleum rusty metal primer and then topcoated with Rust Oleum satin black. It hasn't rusted again in close to 20 years, but it also never sees salt. It does however get wet from time to time. The nice about using a cheaper product like Rust Oleum is that if you damage the finish, repairing it is as simple as going to any hardware and picking up some paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best success I've had is wire brushing as much stuff off as possible, then use a zinc chromate self etching primer (Sherwin Williams used to sell this in "rattle cans", but now it's only available in quarts). I have found DupliColor has a self etching primer (found it at Advance). It does not give contents - but is the same putrid green as the old zinc chromate I used to get so I'm givine it a try. I top this off with Sherwin-Williams Industrial paint. I've done a few old trailers and some frames this way and it has always seemed to last.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Happy Thanksgiving, Craig! Do you know if I can thin out the etching primer with acetone in order to spray it on using my compressor/spray gun?

 

Clay,

Happy Thanksgiving to you too! I know I sprayed it on the one trailer - I don't think I had to thin it (old junk gun I just used for primer) - but I'm sure it can be - just ask the Sherwin Williams guys. You'll probably have to talk to the ones in Grandview as they are the "industrial coatings" guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

BRinging this back...

 

What is the best degreaser to get? Simple Green...diluted if necessary? I need to degrease the body panels as well.

 

I'm assuming I degrease before grinding off peeled paint/rust to avoid contaminating the surrounding area?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only real way to get of rust is to sand blast it away and then use a good etching primer afterwards on frames. On sheet metal, you need to cut it out. For degreasing, diesel fuel or kerosene.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...