B5 S4 - Wheel Bearing

[SilverAudiMike]

I'm debating on tackling this on my own here soon. Has anyone had experience replacing a wheel bearing on B5 S4? Does the hub generally get replaced too?

[RyM3rC]

If you have something like a Hub Shark it's not that bad, otherwise you'd have to take the hub off and stick it on a press. The hub doesn't get replaced, unless you can find the whole assembly for a good price.

[Mr. Jones]

Front or back ?

[SilverAudiMike]

It's a front. I'm trying to figure out which bearing I need, I guess there is a VIN split in 2000. ECS says "Up to VIN #8D-Y-080001" "From to VIN #8D-Y-080001".

[CRed05]

Fronts bolt in, at least mine does, which is the early 2000 model (Aluminum uprights). I haven't done the fronts, but I wouldn't be afraid to do them (I've replaced axles like there's no tomorrow, and also did the control arms myself so I had a lot of time to stare at them). The rears...I had someone else deal with those. You just need some triple squares if I remember correctly.

[Brandon]

Ahhh, wheel bearings in a B5 Audi!

 

I did both mine years ago, they needed to be pressed out, and it is semi a pain in the rear. You have to press the hub out of the knuckle, then the bearing off the hub, press the bearing back on the hub, then back into the knuckle...With a hub tamer kit and good pneumatics it is not so bad, I didn't have that when I did mine and pressing them is a pain.

 

If you would like I am certain we can get you a pretty good CR member price to have the bearing replaced at our shop, and I can get you a solid price on a OE SKF bearing.

 

Give us a call

 

740-657-3278 or email bwright@ipsmotorsports.net

[BIGGU]

buy a hub shark and do it yourself.

[CRed05]

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel44.shtml

 

That's for the steel uprights.

 

Here's what the aluminum one's look like:

 

If you look at your uprights and they are shiny aluminum, you win. If they are black, you lose.

[SilverAudiMike]

Looks like it should be the press in style - mfg date 12/99. Found axle and bearing at International for under $130.

[Trouble Maker]

From what I understand many of the mid-model year changes weren’t always a hard date or VIN. When you get near the cutoff on both sides, there can sometimes be a car which doesn’t follow the rule. Your car is early enough that I would say it’s very likely an aluminum knuckle car.

 

Bu it’s really easy to check. Crank the wheel and you can easily see the knuckle. You should be able to tell just by the way the metal looks, but try to stick a magnet to it to make sure. Aluminum is not ferrous therefore a magnet will not stick to it, but will stick to a steel knuckle.

 

Could save you some heart ache of ordering the wrong one.

[CRed05]

Also, you're very likely to get the wrong axle from part stores. I used to get mine from car quest, until they couldn't get me the right one either. Then I went with JHM's solid axles, haven't had to replace one yet.

[SilverAudiMike]

Picked up parts from International - they actually asked for my mfg date and last 8 of VIN. Fingers crossed they are the right parts. Edited December 14, 2011 by SilverAudiMike

[GSXRAntwon]

Fingers crossed that theyre the wrong ones miss ya buddy

[SilverAudiMike]

Any good place for ABS sensor locally?

[CRed05]

Auto Assets might have them in stock.

[SilverAudiMike]

I've had a solid ABS light with flashing brake light since last winter - think its the ABS module. When installing the new bearing on the front an ABS sensor broke, is it worth even replacing right now if the module is F'd?

[CRed05]

I'd say might as well since you're in there.

[Trouble Maker]

IIRC, you only have to take the wheel off to get to the sensor so it's not like you would be saving that much labor over doing it later.

[SilverAudiMike]

Here's the VAG scan result. Module or sensor?

 

18014 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS: Electrical Malfunction

P1606 - 35-00 - -