Jump to content

95 altima stalling


The_buster
 Share

Recommended Posts

So the wife's car has been stalling out when she lets off the gas. its done it 4 or 5 times now in the last week. I bought a fuel filter for it tonight. I put some techron in it last night and i cant get it to do it at all. It does have a miss-sputter to it when you romp on it. Any suggestions or ideas of where to start?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Codes would be good to get a direction to look. You might also try a couple basic maintenance things like:

1) Clean the throttle body - the plate can get carboned up and cause problems with the IAC

2) Check the PCV valve - I've seens a couple instances recently where a dirty PCV (not clogged - but won't seal under vacuum) was letting "unmetered" air into the motor causing some lean run conditions

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Worth your effort to pull the codes, rather than tossing parts at it. Diagnositcs are where it's at. Pull them/have them pulled and report back.

 

Actually being a '95 it should have the Niss 1 or 2 adaptor plug right next to the fuse block. I know most anyone with a newer snap-on scanner with the full adapter kit would be able to pull it. Not sure what other scanners offer that adapter. We just have the adapter for our snap-on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right, there should also be a grey plug to the right of the fuse box. You usually have to pull the fuse box cover off.

 

I have not seen a fuel filter fix that issue on a newer fuel injected cars of today. They RARELY are the source of a problem. It's always possible, but without pulling the codes, or taking the time to diagnose the issue you are pissing money and time away.

 

The 2 top fixes for "stalling" on the tech lines for a 2.4L Altima are a Mass Air Flow Sensor, or a Distributor. Neither of which you should really guess at. Pulling codes and looking at a scan tool would help you tremendously.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so it rained that day.. but i read the codes this morning, pulled code 32 and 34. O2 sensor and knock sensor. also had the ignition cont. module tested and its good..then bad..then good...then bad. so im gonna get one of those when i get paid. any other input? Also would the knock sens. make it stall or not start?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Module is your best starting point if it's testing bad intermittantly.

 

Knock Sensor will typically cause car to feel down on power as it will cause the module to retard timing (typically) or possibly add fuel, but not cause stalling (if everything else is working decent)

 

O2 controls fuel trim - should not cause stalling (at least don't replace it to correct stalling-read on). If the car is over 100K and it hasn't been replaced, it's due and may just be "lazy" in how it responds. Too long rich or lean will also trip the code, either one (too rich or too lean - more so lean) COULD cause stalling and the O2 code would trip (think vacuum leak that is too large for injectors to add enough fuel to compensate for)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

car has 153xxx and i replaced the O2 after the cat 2 years ago and the one before the cat in 07 when i bought it. going to get ICM today from work, have to order it. Will it hurt to not replace the knock sensor? its 120 dollars and i have no clue where it is, and the computers dont help either.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will it hurt to not replace the knock sensor? its 120 dollars and i have no clue where it is, and the computers dont help either.

 

I wouldn't replace it till I tried the ICM. Alldate shows it on the intake side of the motor centered beteween the two center injectors (certainly on the block below this point). R&R time shows "with intake remove and install: 5.5 hours, or without intake removal & install: .7 hours.

 

Short story - looks to be a pain in the ass to get to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those Nissan/Infiniti's throw knock sensor codes all the time, and a majority of them with the VQ motors don't replace them because they are a PITA to change. I understand you have a 4 cyl, but typically knock sensors aren't the easiest thing to get to.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so im thinking its a fuel pump. cant afford to have it fixed and i dont know what im doing,nor am I brave enough to try. Might trade it in or just let her sit till we save enough back.... any way could the fuel pump cause these issues? Also could the relay do this?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...