DTM Brian Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Trying to do some research to find out how big the fuel injectors are on my bike. Looking to only spray around 30-40 hp. I need something to keep up with those new liter bikes.Any suggestions on a good dry kit to go with is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoblick Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 do it!http://www.tobefast.com/nx-fuel-injected-dry-power-kit-c-51698-p-1-pr-1455.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Why spray? There are plenty of solid builds that could give you 190 to 200 RWHP all day long. 3mm over and a 5mm stroker crank would work just fine, and you dont have to find a place to hide that pesky bottle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 ^ true. Spray may be cheaper currently, but in the long run adding all the refills, etc, etc....it is more expensive. Mathematics makes a turbo cheaper too, but cheap horsepower for the current moment always makes it easier on the wallet in present time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoblick Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 brian loves sprayask him about his 86 mustang lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Why spray? There are plenty of solid builds that could give you 190 to 200 RWHP all day long. 3mm over and a 5mm stroker crank would work just fine, and you dont have to find a place to hide that pesky bottle also a lot more time consuming and expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 also a lot more time consuming and expensiveI'd disagree.It really doesn't take that long to tear down and build a GSX-R motor. Pretty easy and straight forward. Sure it would take longer than installing a dry kit, but not THAT much longer.More expensive? Initially, yes. I've seen plenty of lunched GSX-R motors from people spraying too much too often and not taking the time to build the bottom end of the motor. A 30 or 40 shot every now and then isnt bad, but a 50 or more dry shot is way hard on those motors - clutch baskets especially. Long term use of even a 30-40 is hard on them too.If you're going to spray, do a wet system, and build the bottom end to handle it. By the time you do that, the cost difference compared to a 3mm with a stroker crank isnt that great, and that set up is really bullet proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dweezel Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) i like www.dynotune.org stuff. ive gotten a few things off of them its good stuff Edited April 3, 2009 by Dweezel wrong smiley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Screw the spray. Big bore kit. To do spray right, you need to tear down you motor and replace alot of the factory parts and you still can end up with motor damage. Plus you'll have a sleeper no one will think you've got anything but a stock bike.Pssst............I'm putting a 1441 kit in mine soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I'd disagree.It really doesn't take that long to tear down and build a GSX-R motor. Pretty easy and straight forward. Sure it would take longer than installing a dry kit, but not THAT much longer.More expensive? Initially, yes. I've seen plenty of lunched GSX-R motors from people spraying too much too often and not taking the time to build the bottom end of the motor. A 30 or 40 shot every now and then isnt bad, but a 50 or more dry shot is way hard on those motors - clutch baskets especially. Long term use of even a 30-40 is hard on them too.If you're going to spray, do a wet system, and build the bottom end to handle it. By the time you do that, the cost difference compared to a 3mm with a stroker crank isnt that great, and that set up is really bullet proof.Again I say adding a kit with a small jet wet or dry isnt going to hurt anything. There arent many machine shops that can do motorcycle bottom ends and the ones that can are expensive, and if anyone says just slap a new set of pistons and rods in with no machinging your dumb.Pistons and rods are anywhere from 600 to a 1000, add in machine work thats probably 600. If you going to tear the motor apart might as well port the head 1000 ( depending on quality), cams 500, ARP fasteners who knows, a good EFI system 600-1000, a good nitrous kit 1500 and I could go on.Or he could slap a dry kit on there for 500 bones ( wet kit would be optimum but most bikes dont have the fuel pressure to handle it) and run it for awhile until the motor tanks and then he can just buy another motor for maybe 1000 bucks. Besides Brain has had MANY nitrous cars and if you have forgotten he is also a shop owner that tunes an array of things with spray on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vw151 Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I don't know a lot about this stuff but I vote for big bore and spray FTMFW!!!!!!Where do you need 200hp to keep up with these new guys anyway. Drag strip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shittygsxr Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 your fuel injectors have plenty of room for more horse power, so a dry kit with a second map would be just fine. Do a progressive controller so that less strain will be put on the clutch and transmission parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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