Turbo V6 Mustang

[spoolin_s14]

hell of project, would be a fun v6

[pontiacfreak142]

Lookin good. I wish some one would make an irs conversion for f bodies.

[Toph6888]

Got some more goodies in the mail, my AEM truboost boost controller and AEM wideband to go with my Autometer Water Temp/Oil Pressure gauges.

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/549459_10100603287030142_660285082_n.jpg

 

Also, its gonna be one of those weekends. Got a lot of stuff packed up to take to the mustang this weekend.

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/62178_10100603286945312_1690439249_n.jpg

[Toph6888]

Got a little further today. Started with pulling the whole exhaust system that was still in the car, and getting the SRA out so that I would be able to sell that this weekend and start mocking up the IRS cradle. I got all the parts out, and started working on cleaning up the underbody. Gonna knock down the surface rust, seal it with a rust-killer, then spray the whole underbody with a rubberized underbody spray. Gotta love the monotonous stuff. Considering the car is a 2000 that was a daily driver through Akron's snow ever year, I don't think its really all too bad.

 

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/601499_10100604207096322_234626341_n.jpg

 

Old exhaust

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/563521_10100604206976562_511944425_n.jpg

 

Also mocked up the intercooler in place. I do have a question for others, do you mount your intercoolers behind your metal bumper or do you take the bumper off? Whomever had the car before me must have had a slow speed fender bender, because my crush sleeve portions that hold on the metal bumper are tilted down. Any info helps. I'll probably leave the bumper off for the time being I am able to get it to an autobody shop to get those crush sleeve portions straightened out and can put the bumper on with the intercooler behind it.

 

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/482462_10100604207156202_534247040_n.jpg

[Toph6888]

Well got a little bit done today but not much, she was fighting the whole day today. Hopefully tomorrow and monday go better.

 

Loaded up for the weekend

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/417394_10100613820111762_1563022151_n.jpg

 

Engine from shop

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/537591_10100614796210652_579899327_n.jpg

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/44466_10100614796160752_1996237793_n.jpg

 

Got the fuel tank out, but I have to get a new basket/hat to put in my 310lph pump

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/226554_10100614796255562_1519342170_n.jpg

 

Did get the subframe bushings out of the IRS, so that was one victory. My suggestion is that if you are ever going to do this, man up and buy the pulling tools. They make it so much easier.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/306167_10100614796085902_1861781226_n.jpg

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/6549_10100614796125822_410415032_n.jpg

 

All out

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/r270/295557_10100614796045982_388368070_n.jpg

[Miller]

Nicely done.

[Toph6888]

Didn't get too much done today, family stuff this morning, and then had to go to the parts store for some extra stuff, so I mostly just cleaned some stuff up under the body, organized the garage, but I did get the subframe bushings into the IRS subframe.

 

Had to get a wire wheel to really smooth out the inside of the bushing cups

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/537463_10100615770383402_684001572_n.jpg

 

I used the bushing remover tool to also pull the bushings into the bushing cups, then I used a rubber mallet and my c-clamp to pull the bushings sleeves into the bushings.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/625591_10100615770278612_1433236939_n.jpg

[Toph6888]

Well I spent today under my car cleaning up the rust and getting it painted.

 

Primer:

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/599009_10100617033207692_2000958490_n.jpg

 

Black Enamel:

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/537527_10100617032953202_2102128619_n.jpg

 

Rubber Undercoating (YAY OHIO!)

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/310321_10100617032883342_287050209_n.jpg

 

I'm not a fan of that rubber brown color, so I will be adding another coat of the black enamel next weekend.

 

I'm taking friday off, so plan is to get the rest of the front suspension off, get it sanded and painted, and then get all the suspension stuff in. Then hopefully put the engine all together.

[RS69]

Looks good.

[Toph6888]

Didn't take many pictures this weekend because she was fighting the entire time.

 

Worked on the front end, got the majority of the front suspension out so I can paint the engine bay.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/556907_10100623072325252_1438432699_n.jpg

 

Managed to find the correct fuel hat to fit my 310lph fuel pump, but the connector was different, so I had to cut up the harness and splice the right connector into it.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/64360_10100623072210482_1281989624_n.jpg

 

I started working on getting the IRS frame into the car, and with the poly bushings they were just way too tight (couldn't even move it a 1/4" with a sledge hammer) so I dropped that back out to lightly grind the bushings just a tad thinner, and will hopefully get that in next week. I did get the upper control arm bushings into the control arms and onto the frame.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/6793_10100623071402102_1903386308_n.jpg

 

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/74459_10100623071541822_331191083_n.jpg

 

So after so much trouble with that stuff I decided I would say screw the chasis I'm gonna build something fun, something that will go together no problem. Except that the main bearings were the wrong bearings. Third and Fourth Main bearing tangs were not aligned correctly, and the rear bearing was oversized to match a NA 3.8/4.2, not the undersized bearing for the supercoupe. Auto store from multiple locations listed these as the Supercoupe bearings, but they were not, so I talked to Dalke and was able to get the right bearings ordered from Summit. So hopefully next weekend.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/537678_10100623072145612_111453988_n.jpg

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/246429_10100623072030842_1768468830_n.jpg

 

This is what looked strange to me too, is this normal not having the bearings aligned on the top and bottom half? It looks like that would cause issues

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/166791_10100623071631642_1701161041_n.jpg

 

Hopefully next weekend goes better. I also got my adapter flange to bolt my driveshaft to my irs diff, but I still need to get an adapter ujoint, so that will be something else for next weekend. Hopefully this is the last bad weekend and last sign of all these little issues.

[Toph6888]

First good night working on the car in a while.

 

Was able to get the tie rod ends out of the front spindles, so I was able to get the front control arms out, and I was able to cut the ball joint nut off so I could get the spindles off of the control arms. Replacing those probably tomorrow night, and will pick up some bushings for the control arms on Sunday morning.

 

I was able to get the ujoint out of the driveshaft today, so that was good too. I will be going to the parts store to get the adapter ujoint to connect my driveshaft to the cobra flange. Should be a 1330/1350 Hybrid joint if I have it measured correctly.

 

Got the engine bay smoothed out with the wire wheel, and was able to get it pretty much degreased as well. I will go over it again in more detail before I spray the engine bay so it looks a lot better.

 

Finally, my properly sized engine bearings for the supercoupe motor showed up, so I will be able to put the engine together this weekend like I had hoped.

 

If everything keeps going to plan, I will have the rear suspension in and finished, engine bay painted, front suspension ready to go on, and engine assembled and painted before the weekend is done. Hoping that I will be able to get the engine/trans in next weekend, get the small wiring things done for the gauges, and get it started next weekend.

 

Control arms out

 

Spindles free

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/228206_10100627779008022_1455249206_n.jpg

 

Ujoint out

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/157039_10100627778958122_2103588102_n.jpg

 

Proper Bearings for the supercoupe (these are for 87-93, since they don't make the 94/95 bearings anymore. You end up having to grind off some of the tangs to make them work)

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/8911_10100627778908222_2073632110_n.jpg

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/521453_10100627778858322_1765969027_n.jpg

[Toph6888]

Made some decent progress today, not in the area I wanted to but progress is progress.

 

So i started working on putting the engine together, and crank bearings are good. Had to grind off one of the bearings tangs to make it fit, but all the bearings line up really well and the bearing I had to grind was the thrust bearing, so it will still hold in place anyways, so all in all, great there.

 

Then I had issues. I went to put my cam in, and it was pretty hard to get it in. So I think something is wrong with the bearings. I was able to get it in all the way while slowly spinning it in, but when I put the retainer plate on, I wasn't able to spin it by hand, only with a tool on the cam bolt. So I took it out, and looks like I nicked the 2nd and 3rd bearing. I can't really tell though, luckily I hadnt put the rotating assembly in yet, so I am going to take the block back to my house.

 

My first thought is that the shop where my mustang is is around 45-50 degrees because it doesn't have heating, and my thought is that the cold caused the block to compress the bearings, making for the tight fit. Anyways, I'll take it home and let it heat up, and if I can get it to work great, if not I will be honing the bearings a bit and getting the block cleaned again. Also need to get the cam button for the cam because I lost it when I tore the engine apart originally

 

Then things got better. I got the bushings back into the IRS lower control arms because the bushing kit I got requires the rubber to be ground out and replaced with the polyurethane bushing, you have to leave the original bushing sleeve in the control arm. So I got all the bushings into the control arms, and FINALLY HAVE NO MORE IRS BUSHINGS TO PUT IN. Looking at those empty boxes felt great.

 

Also got the ball joints out of the front control arms, and I will clean those up this week via a sandblaster, then spray and reinstall.

 

Front and Rear control arms

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/521409_10100628685147112_654301792_n.jpg

 

Finally, I started to spray my engine bay. Now I know you should really take everything out, but honestly, I just wanted it not look so dirty/some rust spots, and a little overspray on a harness cover or something isn't that big of a deal to me.

 

First I took a wire wheel to break off the rust, then degreased, a quick spray of brake cleaner to get rid of any residue, then primer, then black. Looks better then stock I feel. Some of the stuff I will have to spray once I can move more things around (AC compressor lol)

 

Primer

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/733825_10100628685486432_815911867_n.jpg

 

Black

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/536462_10100628685431542_420337961_n.jpg

[Toph6888]

Finally got to work on the mustang this weekend after getting sick, having my outback decide that it was tired of its halfshafts and driveshafts, as well as getting my cam and bearings figured out (cam journal had a burr in it that destroyed my bearings, so I had to have a second set of new ones put in and get the cam journals polished).

 

Anyways, I got the block back a couple days ago, and today I was able to get the shortblock put together. It amazes me at how much time it actually took, probably about 4-5hrs, granted at a slow and meticulous pace and stopping to talk to my buddy a couple times.

 

Checking the tolerances on the main bearings with some plastigauge

 

 

 

Crank In

 

 

Assembling rods/pistons (by the way, those spiral locks suck on the pistons haha)

 

 

Forged rods/Pistons anyone?

 

 

Oiled up and some extra fuel line around the rod bolts so as not to destroy the cylinder walls or crank

 

 

And they are in!

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow I have to go to a pull a part to tear apart a complete engine so I can get the head alignment dowels and the timing cover alignment dowels (can't find mine :rage:) as well as some parts from summit racing, so I am hoping to get the rest of the engine together, mate up the trans, and maybe get them in the car either tomorrow or monday since I took a vacation day.

[6 Speed S4]

Looking good man!

[Toph6888]

Well today didn't go as well as I had hoped. Everything was going well for the morning got all the cylinder heads together with my LS springs, after lapping my valves and cleaning the heads and valves up last night.

 

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/555973_10100650502180602_2145425239_n.jpg

 

All assembled

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/544862_10100650501871222_1747464678_n.jpg

 

At the pull a part the other day, I did find all of my cylinder head dowels and timing cover dowels, as well as getting the cam spacer for engines that don't have a balance shaft.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/562212_10100650502240482_1332414320_n.jpg

 

Then I started working on timing my cam

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/383147_10100650501821322_505954925_n.jpg

 

Then the trouble started. When I would bolt the camshaft bolt on, I wouldn't be able to turn the engine by hand. I thought it was the new timing chain and tensioner, but I tried turning it without the cam bolt but with the timing chain on, and it worked just fine. So I checked my camshaft, and looks like the machine shop didn't transfer the thrust bearing over to the new camshaft. I have the part, but it was at my place in columbus, so needless to say, that was as far as I got.

 

The part I needed.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/73393_10100650501751462_2134396947_n.jpg

 

So hopefully in two weeks I will be able to put this in pretty easily, and then get the whole thing together. I have all the other necessary engine parts, just some miscommunication between me and the machine shop, I guess thats how it goes though. I did get my steering rack on with the urethane bushings, so at least that is taken care of, and I did touch up the engine bay paint with some semi gloss black instead of the gloss black, and I like the look a lot better. Hopefully in another two weekends working on it it will get finished up, but who knows lol.

[Toph6888]

Well what a day. Got some really good progress in today.

 

Dropped my front control arms off to get the bushings swapped out. Just didnt feel like messing with these ones for 2 hrs when my shop will do it for $50.

 

Second, I got my camshaft key off, and was able to put the missing thrust space on, put the key back on, and get the cam back into the block. Spins much better now haha.

 

Now to the exciting stuff. With the camshaft in, cam bolt torqued and having blue locktite, I started fitting on the timing cover/water pump. Remembering where all the bolts/studs went sucked, mostly because I didn't take a good pic of when I took them out.

 

Cam installed

 

Bolt locations. I ordered them in order of the bottom left of the timing cover, going around clockwise. The ones where there were only the nuts, those were the studs that I had in the block for aligning the timing cover with the alignment dowels as well.

 

timing cover/water pump test fit

 

Next, I took the water pump and timing cover off to coat both sides of the timing cover gasket and the water pump gasket with some RTV sealant.

 

Then I hit today's hiccup. When I was bolting everything down, I was on the last bolt, and apparently it only had a couple threads contact in the block (maybe I had it in the wrong spot? but my pictures from before looked like that bolt) so when I went to tighten it, I heard this pop. I thought I snapped the bolt in the block. I guess kinda luckily, the bolt only grabbed a couple threads (2-3) and broke them out of the block. Luckily, when I was at a pull a part a few weeks ago there were some timing cover bolts that were longer sitting in a mustang (??) but anyways I was able to cut a few threads off because it was way too long, and it was able to screw into a bunch of threads behind the ones that I snapped out of the block. So A-O-K I guess haha. Its tight and it has a lot of thread contact, so I'm happy with it.

 

With that on, I covered up the pistons with tape and towels, flipped it all over, and painted it.

 

Primer:

 

Ford Blue:

 

And then I went to put my cylinder heads on, and my head studs wouldn't go all the way down in the block on a few, and this is where I stopped because I didn't have a thread chaser long enough. So I will get one tomorrow morning and get the cylinder heads finally bolted down, oil pan on, and then work on dropping it into the car with the transmission. Tomorrow is going to be a long day.

 

And Finally, MONEY SHOT!

 

 

 

[10phone2]

great progress, you're definitely coming along

[JaronsToy]

nice job

[Mojoe]

I don't care if it only makes 10 WHP, yes 10! It is coming together very well and the work looks good. I hope it does all you want it to. Kudos for taking on a project like this.

[Alex L.]

That block and accessories in blue looks great. Keep up the good work.

[Versluis]

looks awesome and great work

[Toph6888]

Well yesterday was freaking awesome.

 

Started out by getting a tap set so I could chase my head stud bolts (11m x 1.5, who makes bolt this size?!? way to go FORD!) Anyways, got those on, made sure left side meant drivers side lol, put my head gaskets on, put the heads on, and put the oil pickup / oil pan on.

 

 

 

 

Then worked on painting some misc parts like the bellhousing, trans, motor mounts and trans mount

 

 

Put the harmonic balancer on most of the way, still needs to go on about 1/4-1/2", but I will finish that once it is in the car.

 

Then we started the transplant.

 

Getting it off the stand

 

After installing the rear main seal and pilot bearing (which sucked, it barely wanted to go in, but I know it was the right one cause it was the same as the one on my old crankshaft, and the pilot hole fit right, got it to where it was sticking out 1/8", and went with "hit it harder" and it finally popped in haha) got the flywheel on

 

 

And the clutch disc and pressure plate. the alignment tool I had kinda sucked, and the first time we went to put the trans in it wasn't lined up perfectly, but we got it the second time but had to use hte trans bolts to kinda pull the trans into place because the friction disc was still a little off, but it pulled on just fine with little resistance.

 

 

and bellhousing/transmission on

 

 

To the air!

 

 

When putting it in, we had one REALLY BIG SCARY moment when the release valve for the lift all of a sudden loosened and started dropping the block and we almost completely lost it. The crank pulley hit the wall and kinda tilted it, but we stopped it before it was really resting on anything. I about died watching that happen lol.

 

 

Took a bit of muscle and a couple tries with the leveler, but we were finally able to get the mounts to mate with the kmember, and got the trans mount bolted up

 

 

 

 

All in all yesterday was a 13 hr day. Holy crap I am sore. Gonna work on some miscellaneous stuff today, prob at least get the lower intake on, get the exhaust and accessories on, and see where I am from there. Hoping to have a shot of the turbo in it tonight but we will see haha. And yes, it took way longer then I thought it would, about two or three times as long haha. But its in!

[Toph6888]

So I spent most of today getting some stuff cleaned up and painted. I can't believe how much time this painting is taking haha.

 

Anyways, I started off on the lower intake, I drilled and tapped for a water temp sender, but then found out my tap was too small for the sender, so I will take it to work with me to get the proper size hole/tap put in it. So much for getting the intakes on today. I did get my homemade shitty egr block off made using some i believe 1/8" steel plate, a gasket as a guide, a grinder, and I cut the bolts short to make it fit. Then lined it with rtv sealant on either side, and its bolted on.

 

 

Then got the intake painted silver to match the heads

 

 

Then I cleaned up my exhaust headers and merge pipes, got all the old heat wrap off since it was all stained and falling apart anyways, and sprayed 2-3 coats of VHT high temp ceramic paint. It looks glossy when wet, but it drys flat black which should be a nice contrast to the blue block, silver heads/intake, and semigloss black engine bay

 

 

While I was waiting for paint to dry, I decided to see how my gauges would look in the car, so I mocked them up to see, they still need to be wired.

 

 

Then I decided to test fit the drivers side header so I could get an idea of how I want to route my exhaust dump (the guy who originally had this kit had a tubular k member and went underneath the k instead of trying to get back past the engine) and I realized I will have to convert to a hydroboost setup in order to get enough clearance because I took a piece of 3" pipe and tried to fit it between the header primary, vacuum booster, and steering linkage and there was no way it is going to fit. So if anyone knows anyone selling a setup, LET ME KNOW ASAP lol. I would like to have it by saturday.

 

 

So I was pretty dishearted that A) I wasnt able to put my intakes on and B) I have to get a new brake system in order to put an exhaust on, but I was dead set and determined to see the turbo on the car! The guy that made the kit made it so the turbo was hard mounted to the engine, with a lot of flex pipes around everything else so it could still "move" and not break welds if the engine torqued one way or another. So I bolted up that bracket so I could see the turbo in the engine bay, looks pretty good!

 

 

 

All in all, it was great getting the engine in this weekend. I will have two more weekends to work on it up by Akron close to my parents, and then after that if the suspension is good to go and engine is sealed I am going to have it towed down to my place in columbus so I can work on it easier. Hopefully next week goes honestly as good as this one did. Fingers crossed.

[Toph6888]

Was able to work on it for only 4-5 hrs today as its my dads bday today. But here we go!

 

I went to the shop to get my front control arms back from getting the rubber bushings pushed out, and I said why not just install the urethane bushings and balljoints. Well they tore both boots on the ball joints, so they are going to fix it, and hopefully be done with it by Monday. So much for getting the front suspension on today/tomorrow. Ohh well thats how it goes.

 

I took the timing cover off the other night because I was worried I didn't torque down the timing tensioner bolts. Started with putting the timing cover back on with the new timing gasket, mine got jarred up from when I took it off last night. Still glad I checked though because the timing tensioner bolts weren't as snug as I would have liked them to be, and I put loctite on them this time so should be good to go!

 

 

Then I went ahead and measured for my pushrods. I made a solid lifter by taking an old one apart (and marking it so I would remember which one it was), took the spring out, flipped the inner piece upside down, and put the pluger on top of that. When I was using my checker, it was 6 spins to match the same height as the stock pushrods, and the best position for my pushrod length was 6.5 turns. Based on the turns being 0.100", and that being a solid lifter I didn't have any preload, I will go with a rod that is 0.100" longer then stock, and I am pretty sure that will give me the required length to get a decent geometry. I tried it with 7 turns (thus being 0.100" over stock) and it looked like it was super close to binding the spring, but I believe once it is on an actual hydraulic lifter that will take out some clearance and make it the correct length and not cause bind. I know that was a lot of words, but if anyone sees any issue with this please let me know haha.

 

Solid Lifter

 

Image of valve top (doesn't give a clear image of the wear because they are stock rockers, but I tried it longer, and shorter, and this was the best I got with an even contact over the whole patch, the others were either centered to the top, or centered to the bottom)

 

Next I went ahead and put all of my lifters in, oiled them up, put the locks on, and bolted them down.

 

Then I got the gaskets set up and put them in, and got the lower intake partially on. I didn't have an in-lb torque wrench, so I will get one tomorrow and bolt it down for good. Right now everything is finger tight.

 

Intake on, fuel rail temporarily on, and coolant tube temporarily on (checking clearance on the windstar)

 

And then I was trying to get clearance for the windstar, I was starting to run out of time, so I didn't get it bolted down. I still need to clearance the coolant tube a bit more, but its almost there. Got the fuel rail bent out of the way at least.

 

 

I personally feel the badge on this intake is the best part about this swap haha

 

Tomorrow my dad is going with me so we are going to get the rest of the IRS stuff on and hopefully get the pushrods in and the ujoint I still need for the driveshaft, but hopefully the back half of the car will be on the ground by tomorrow night!

[Miller]

This has been fun to see. Thanks for the thread.