ol doc gully Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 i moved here from texas not long ago and in less than a year ive worked on enough ohio cars to have a healthy fear and respect, if not hatred, for rust. SO, i recently purchased a brand new tacoma as a daily driver, giving me a chance to nip this problem in the bud - since we all know an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, which may be closer to 10 tons when it comes to corrosion. i want to know what is the best treatment to give it to keep that winter time hazmat away from my precious metal. i know there is some factory application (and likely much improved as a result of the billions spent cleaning up the last batch of tacomas) before i moved here a buddy had recommended LPS-3 for my old subaru. apparently '3' is an aerosol spray, stays tacky and is supposed to be self healing in inside environments. basically take two cans and spray whole underbody. id honestly rather pay someone to do it if i can find a reputable place with a quality process that is worth the money, but if this is the route i need to go for guaranteed prevention, it is what I will do. any recommendations? places? processes/materials? im asking on here because i would like to hear from the people who have been through the shit, tried things that havent worked, and have tried things that did work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) i suppose i'll kick things off with what google turned up: line-x http://www.linex-ohio.com/undercoating-and-rust-protection gus's rust prevention http://www.gussgarage.com/rust-protection/the-benefits/ neither has much detail on what works, rather than explaining why rust prevention is worth your hard earned dollars, so not a lot to go on Edited September 2, 2014 by ol doc gully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 The very best treatment is to keep the salt from ever touching your "precious metal", as in don't drive it in the winter and until the salt has been completely washed away; I'd wait at least two big rains since the last salt application. If your "precious metal" had to be driven in the salted slush, there is no 100% effective way to keep rust from forming. Heated metals such as a brake rotor and an exhaust pipe/flange/component will corrode even faster. I've turned borderline obsessive by spraying the undercarriage of my daily drivers at home everytime any of them has been driven. Not always possible when temperature is in "deep freeze" range and it surely takes certain infrastructure to be in place. Another story I have hear or read is to spray the undercarriage with light oil. The cheapest is using used motor oil. EPA, and maybe some of your neighbors, will frown upon this. Of course spraying oil on brake friction surfaces or exhaust part exposed to high temperature may carry unwanted and dire outcomes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky31186 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Contact linex of Lancaster for undercoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 The very best treatment is to keep the salt from ever touching your "precious metal", as in don't drive it in the winter and until the salt has been completely washed away; I'd wait at least two big rains since the last salt application. If your "precious metal" had to be driven in the salted slush, there is no 100% effective way to keep rust from forming. Heated metals such as a brake rotor and an exhaust pipe/flange/component will corrode even faster. I've turned borderline obsessive by spraying the undercarriage of my daily drivers at home everytime any of them has been driven. Not always possible when temperature is in "deep freeze" range and it surely takes certain infrastructure to be in place. Another story I have hear or read is to spray the undercarriage with light oil. The cheapest is using used motor oil. EPA, and maybe some of your neighbors, will frown upon this. Of course spraying oil on brake friction surfaces or exhaust part exposed to high temperature may carry unwanted and dire outcomes. not driving in the winter would certainly seem to be the only fool proof answer, however that wont quite work. if youve turned borderline obsessive about spraying things off with water i would think one round of that spray process with a little bit of preventative/paraffin substance would double your whole season effectiveness. oil is definitely an answer but i suspect would not sustain under direct spray with very much longevity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Fluid Film Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Contact linex of Lancaster for undercoat. thanks. any particular reason you mentioned lancaster over the two columbus locations? do you know anyone who has gotten them to undercoat a vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky31186 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I had my bed sprayed there. But also know someone with under coat done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Fluid Film awesome. found lots of info on this online, lanolin-base definitely seems to be the go-to. think i have a pretty good grasp on the trade offs there, i suppose i'll just try to get a call in to line-x and see what i can find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 thanks for the input so far, would still love to hear from anyone's personal experiences if theyve got em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 not driving in the winter would certainly seem to be the only fool proof answer, however that wont quite work. if youve turned borderline obsessive about spraying things off with water i would think one round of that spray process with a little bit of preventative/paraffin substance would double your whole season effectiveness. oil is definitely an answer but i suspect would not sustain under direct spray with very much longevity The parameters considered here are cost, ease of application, effectiveness, and life. Used motor oil coating will need application once or twice a year but it's free and surely it will not last more than a few thousand miles. I don't like thick, permanent or semi-permanent coating. In my previous work experience, such coating cracked, chipped, or peeled. It makes moisture trapped between metal and coating, making corrosion process much faster and worse. On my previous truck, it was undercoated by unknown source and the coating was damaged; so salt-ladden moisture was retained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jelloman4571647545499 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Any Sprayable application if pounded on and not given proper time to dry between coats will bunch up and crack. Shops that do bed liners, undercoatings and rust proofing ofter dont let the vehicle sit between applications due to time for the job to double. Multiple small coats is key. I washed the underside of my jeep, prepped it, scuffed it, degreased it, scuffed again, applied adhesion promoter, Waterbased Undercoating for a spray application, multiple coats over a 8 hour period, then coated with a clear chip guard. This process allowed the jeep to be lifted from a lift, seal the bottom of the jeep and allow another member on this board to wheel the shit out of the jeep in the hills and valleys of North Carolina without any issues. Its all about applying the right item by the right person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I don't like thick, permanent or semi-permanent coating. In my previous work experience, such coating cracked, chipped, or peeled. It makes moisture trapped between metal and coating, making corrosion process much faster and worse. On my previous truck, it was undercoated by unknown source and the coating was damaged; so salt-ladden moisture was retained. Any Sprayable application if pounded on and not given proper time to dry between coats will bunch up and crack. Shops that do bed liners, undercoatings and rust proofing ofter dont let the vehicle sit between applications due to time for the job to double. Multiple small coats is key. I washed the underside of my jeep, prepped it, scuffed it, degreased it, scuffed again, applied adhesion promoter, Waterbased Undercoating for a spray application, multiple coats over a 8 hour period, then coated with a clear chip guard. This process allowed the jeep to be lifted from a lift, seal the bottom of the jeep and allow another member on this board to wheel the shit out of the jeep in the hills and valleys of North Carolina without any issues. Its all about applying the right item by the right person. i agree completely, on both accounts. which is why i like the idea of of the lanolin stuff: basically a long lasting greasy wax that can be applied anywhere, ie even on nuts/bolts, via aerosol; wont wash or fall off but the bulk of it can be removed by wiping if work needs to be done. it would collect dirt and grime, i presume, but keep it isolated on the outside. Jellowman457 what all typically gets covered when you do an undercoating liek that? i'll try to verify when i call but sounds like a typical professional 'undercoating' isnt really going to be much more than a reseal of the frame, missing a lot of hardware that you wouldnt want to coat with something solid (brake line fittings, suspension pieces, etc). and as you say, introduce a chance of cracking and actually making corrosion conditions worse. guess im leaning towards just doing the Fluid Film myself. maybe professional undercoating then a touch up with Fluid Film.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supplicium Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 http://www.por15.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC K9 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I hate it here in TX, but that is one thing I can't complain about, rust free cars. It's nice going to the junk yard to pull parts and not getting rust in your eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I Fluid Filmed mine last fall since I had found the stuff at a local place while in VA. I bought 3 more cans befor moving back last week. Plan to go over it again soon. It is messy and stinks a little while, but really seems to coat well and keep the frame clean. I plan to do one better and get some of the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating and do that before going nuts with the FF. It looks all glossy and oily at first. but it fades to a more normal look pretty quickly http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/iwashmycar/IMG-20131213-00021_zpsaf919fa3.jpg A couple months later....after some more offroading and washing. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/iwashmycar/DE88D01A-0EEA-4D83-ACAA-0F41AF89AC4B_zpss7qfcz1q.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I just want to point out that no amount of prevention will help unless you're regularly washing the salt off the car on a frequent basis. It's a habit you need to get into, and despite prepping the underside of the vehicle, the salt is getting in a lot more places than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tindall2006 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 one of the fisherman down here who is always driving on the salt flats, beach and other places that include tons of salt water recommended linseed oil once a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 one of the fisherman down here who is always driving on the salt flats, beach and other places that include tons of salt water recommended linseed oil once a year. Oy vey...I do linseed on my outdoor wood furniture...that stuff is a mess to work with and I can't imagine there's an aerosol option. Same concept and a lot cheaper than Fluid Film but for an automotive application I'm not so sure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I just want to point out that no amount of prevention will help unless you're regularly washing the salt off the car on a frequent basis. It's a habit you need to get into, and despite prepping the underside of the vehicle, the salt is getting in a lot more places than that. honestly thats something i just started wondering - whats the best way to clean the underside in the winter? any/all drive through or self serve car wash is going to be closed... i live on a cobblestone street, doable but not pleasant. fingers crossed my buddy might be able to let me use the lift/pressure washer at his work but gonna make a mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I Fluid Filmed mine last fall since I had found the stuff at a local place while in VA. I bought 3 more cans befor moving back last week. Plan to go over it again soon. It is messy and stinks a little while, but really seems to coat well and keep the frame clean. I plan to do one better and get some of the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating and do that before going nuts with the FF. It looks all glossy and oily at first. but it fades to a more normal look pretty quickly http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/iwashmycar/IMG-20131213-00021_zpsaf919fa3.jpg A couple months later....after some more offroading and washing. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/iwashmycar/DE88D01A-0EEA-4D83-ACAA-0F41AF89AC4B_zpss7qfcz1q.jpg nice - that looks even better than i expected dirty. internal coating does seem worthwhile, especially as a 'while im at it' kind of thing, which is something i think an undercoating at linex would include... I hate it here in TX, but that is one thing I can't complain about, rust free cars. It's nice going to the junk yard to pull parts and not getting rust in your eye. its home for me so i cant help but miss it... but i definitely miss rust free cars, and enjoying fun cars all year long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 honestly thats something i just started wondering - whats the best way to clean the underside in the winter? any/all drive through or self serve car wash is going to be closed... i live on a cobblestone street, doable but not pleasant. fingers crossed my buddy might be able to let me use the lift/pressure washer at his work but gonna make a mess I would start looking for touchless automatic car washes that have the undercarriage sprayers. If you're not going to wash your own car once and a while, this is the best method I can suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I would start looking for touchless automatic car washes that have the undercarriage sprayers. If you're not going to wash your own car once and a while, this is the best method I can suggest. i have no problem washing my own car every once in a while. the problem as i perceive it lies in A) accessing the underbody, and, more importantly, B) access to fluid in winter-long sub-freezing conditions. the automatic car washes i tried to go to last winter were closed for the season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Yeah you just have to wait until they open...A lot of the DIY spray bays remain open though...may just need to try and get it underneath when you can. Aside from having a heated garage to work in, you are pretty much SOL when it is sub-zero out. Could hook a garden sprinkler to your laundry spigot and throw it underneath...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 thanks adam, guess i'll just have to look harder and call around. and yeah, i had a lot of garage work planned for last winter, but a big volume and only space heaters slowed progress down laughably, lesson learned haha. also, did you ever rinse mid season with the fluid film on? how much would it come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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