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Switching coolant?


Putty

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I am considering removing my coolant and adding water wetter. Is it as simple as draining it and adding the new stuff? What if I don't get all the antifreeze out? Do I have to flush it? Is that as simple as draining, filling with water and draining again...then add what I want to run for good?

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you will have to flush it.

drain the coolant, leave the drain plug open and fill the radiator with distilled water until you don't see color coming out of the drain hole. put the plug back in, fill the radiator and overflow, run the bike for a few minutes and drain it again.

then fill it and the overflow and you're done.

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You probably dont want to run water wetter because you will have to change it back to coolant each fall so that it doesnt freeze during winter. Getting engine ice would be better for you. I run water wetter but I also completely drain my radiator and drain the engine during the winter.

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I am putting this in my 450, so it should be rather easy to make the switch. The winter temp really isn't an issue for me. My garage doesn't get that cold. I think I am going to do the water wetter.

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You probably dont want to run water wetter because you will have to change it back to coolant each fall so that it doesnt freeze during winter. Getting engine ice would be better for you. I run water wetter but I also completely drain my radiator and drain the engine during the winter.

+1 my 600RR definitely ran cooler and stayed cooler longer with engine ice/DW than just OEM coolant, plus its winter/track safe.

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pardon my naivete but why do you want water wetter and (separate question) what benefit for a non-racer (or racer) is dropping the operating temp 8 degrees?

Well, there has been issues with 450s overheating during trail riding. So I figured I'd get a coolant that keeps the bike as cool as possible. I've noticed it gets very hot, quickly. If there is an antifreeze that runs cooler, i'll use that. I just considered WW and Ice for the temp cure...no other reason.

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im fairly confident distilled water alone (no additives such as water wetter) will run the coolest of any "coolant" you can buy.

any way to hook on an additional fan?

You at least need something like water wetter or equivalent to lubricate the seals in the water pump. Also putty, I would still recommend draining it over winter. It takes 10 min to do but you dont want to have to deal with the results if it does manage to freeze on you.

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Engine ice is a marketing ploy. It is the same thing as a glycol based coolant + water wetter.

No it is not...ordinary coolant is 50% polyethylene glycol which is toxic and slippery and hence you can't use it on track...in case of spill.

Engine ice is silicate and phosphate free polypropylene glycol (four times expensive), it's non-toxic and not slippery and hence many tracks will allow them to use it on track. Polypropylene glycol can degrade over time to form lactic acid and can cause severe corrosion, to prevent this they have to put a good buffer and inhibitor in it so the degradation can't happen......due this complexcity and extra chemicals it's so expensive. It will protect upto -35F freezing, 5 degree less than regular coolant, which you don't care.

Redline Water wetter is a good product to use with pure distilled water or with regular coolant or engine ice.

An easy way is during summer use distilled water with water wetter.....in fall drain out half the water and add half regular concentrated 100% coolant (not the 50% ready mix).....then again you have to flush it out in spring....your choice :D

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Well, there has been issues with 450s overheating during trail riding. So I figured I'd get a coolant that keeps the bike as cool as possible. I've noticed it gets very hot, quickly. If there is an antifreeze that runs cooler, i'll use that. I just considered WW and Ice for the temp cure...no other reason.

im with you putty.....i am also going to get a Boyesen high flow water pump kit. Should help also with the overheats/hotter than fuck these 450's get on the trails, especially OUR moto bikes(not trail bikes). I will keep the glycol in and do the water pump first. if that doesnt cool my balls ill try a different substance for the cooling system, but i think i will get better results just with the pump kit.......

hmm ok. my impression was that engines ran better at higher but normal op temps (referring to road stuff) cause i've seen ppl with street bikes wanting to switch and never understood it

yea, but in this instance he is talking about a 450cc dirtbike. And i beleive its a true moto bike not a trail bike, so its gonna run a bit hot in he woods. Mine has been getting quite hot but not overheated yet. See above formy approach to it.

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No it is not...ordinary coolant is 50% polyethylene glycol which is toxic and slippery and hence you can't use it on track...in case of spill.

Engine ice is silicate and phosphate free polypropylene glycol (four times expensive), it's non-toxic and not slippery and hence many tracks will allow them to use it on track. Polypropylene glycol can degrade over time to form lactic acid and can cause severe corrosion, to prevent this they have to put a good buffer and inhibitor in it so the degradation can't happen......due this complexcity and extra chemicals it's so expensive. It will protect upto -35F freezing, 5 degree less than regular coolant, which you don't care.

Redline Water wetter is a good product to use with pure distilled water or with regular coolant or engine ice.

An easy way is during summer use distilled water with water wetter.....in fall drain out half the water and add half regular concentrated 100% coolant (not the 50% ready mix).....then again you have to flush it out in spring....your choice :D

They are both glycol based and function the same when considering their intended purpose. If you plan on drinking it or dumping it on the track, buy a propylene coolant like Sierra: http://www.sierraantifreeze.com. 25% the cost of Engine Ice, and it meets the same corrosion protection requirements (AS D 3306 and AS D 4985)

If you plan on tracking the bike you really shouldn't be using glycol based at all, even though some sanctions allow it. (WERA prohibits both ethylene and propylene I believe)

By all means, use/recommend the stuff if you like it, I've yet to find a difference. :)

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They are both glycol based and function the same when considering their intended purpose. If you plan on drinking it or dumping it on the track, buy a propylene coolant like Sierra: http://www.sierraantifreeze.com. 25% the cost of Engine Ice, and it meets the same corrosion protection requirements (AS D 3306 and AS D 4985)

If you plan on tracking the bike you really shouldn't be using glycol based at all, even though some sanctions allow it. (WERA prohibits both ethylene and propylene I believe)

By all means, use/recommend the stuff if you like it, I've yet to find a difference. :)

Im with you. How dare that Kosmo guy with the PHD and probably more brains than anybody on this board correct you.

sarcasm intended ;)

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That's true. Straight water is the most efficient way to cool an engine. As long as your radiator' date=' hoses, thermostat, pump and fans are all functioning properly you won't experience an over heat. The temps will rise faster at a stand still than with anti-freeze/engine coolant but they will also fall faster once you get moving. This is due to the fact that water has less atomic mass than ethylene glycol.

I don't recommend this because, as Flounder mentioned, your pump, seals and whatnots need some sort of lubrication that straight water cannot provide. I follow the mix procedures on the bottle of my WaterWetter with satisfying results.[/quote']

true what flat fish said, i was just saying what i remember off the bottle.

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your radiator' date=' hoses, thermostat, pump and fans are all functioning properly ... your pump, seals and whatnots need some sort of lubrication that straight water cannot provide.[/quote']

Are you sure it's not you're radiator and you're pump? :p

I might have to try some of this Engine Ice/ Water Wetter-type stuff.

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Im with you. How dare that Kosmo guy with the PHD and probably more brains than anybody on this board correct you.

sarcasm intended ;)

Hahaha.....you learn everyday till your day ends.....great find....never came across, rep points for street pilot.......just a small experimental advice.....;)

Check the pH of the propylene glycol based coolants after a year if they are over 7.0 they are good as they say. If it's below that......they are shit and eat your engine up........:lol:

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