98WS6 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Im pretty sure i blew the Clutch master cylinder in my Firebird. 2nd to 3rd gear pull and poof, clutch pedal to the floor and stuck. I was unaware that these where common problems to sh*t the bed on these cars. Im going to be upgrading to the Tick performace master cylinder and was wondering if anyone on here has installed one of these. Is it Difficult, to install or bleed? Should i replace my slave while im at it? I dont want to because of space issues and would preferably not have to drop the transmission. Any insight on this would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pntbll309 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 It probably didn't blow out on you. You should look into the drill mod and do that. I run a factory master and slave in my car and it's far from stock with no issues. Once I drilled my master cylinder I never had an issue since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98WS6 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 It probably didn't blow out on you. You should look into the drill mod and do that. I run a factory master and slave in my car and it's far from stock with no issues. Once I drilled my master cylinder I never had an issue since. I've seen some things about that and my only thought is. Wouldn't I still have some sort of pedal pressure or anything even with the restrictor in there. I've tried bleeding the system and traditional bleeding and vacuum bleeding I still couldn't get pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I have the tick master in both my Camaro and my Corvette. It works fantastic. Much easier to bleed then factory and mine have worked flawlessly. The slave would be ideal but requires pulling the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pntbll309 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I've seen some things about that and my only thought is. Wouldn't I still have some sort of pedal pressure or anything even with the restrictor in there. I've tried bleeding the system and traditional bleeding and vacuum bleeding I still couldn't get pressure. Ive never had any luck vacuum bleeding, Ive always done it by hand with it out of the car obviously. Is there still fluid in the res? I haven't had it happen since I drilled mine, but when it did Id just pull if off the floor board with my foot and be good to go. If youre going to do the slave you may as well do the clutch/flywheel while youre in there unless the current has super low miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98WS6 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Space is very limited on replacing the slave cylinder. The car only has 79k miles. The clutch felt great before this issue. And when I got under the car there was no fluid around the trans which is giving me some hope that the slave is still good. I may just buy the cmc if it fixed it great. If not pay to have the slave installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pntbll309 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Pulling a Trans isn't too bad on these cars. I'd do it myself and save the money. Being that it does take some labor that's why I say replace the clutch. 79k is a decent amount of miles on a stock clutch in a car that's meant to go fast. Can you drive the car right now? Did you have this problem happen just this once? Edited September 17, 2015 by Pntbll309 typing on an iphone sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98WS6 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Pulling a Trans isn't too bad on these cars. I'd do it myself and save the money. Being that it does take some labor that's why I say replace the clutch. 79k is a decent amount of miles on a stock clutch in a car that's meant to go fast. Can you drive the car right now? Did you have this problem happen just this once? Never had this problem. I purchased the car beginning of August drove it everyday. I was on my way to work Tuesday morning did a pull and went into third and the pedal just stuck to the floor. I pulled it up with my foot and was able to get into 4th and then just coasted to work. I'm hoping I can still use the clutch because money is tight with my GF's murano having electrical issues we are down to 1 car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pntbll309 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Then I wouldn't waste the rediculous money on a tick master. Besides beating on it you should be fine, it should shift normally. I'd drill it out and you'll be good to go, it sounds like the normal sticking pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98WS6 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Then I wouldn't waste the rediculous money on a tick master. Besides beating on it you should be fine, it should shift normally. I'd drill it out and you'll be good to go, it sounds like the normal sticking pedal. That's what I was thinking. Maybe even just putting in a napa one just so I can drive the car till funds are more available. What size is the disconnect tool for the line. I'll drill it out tomorrow after work and hope it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pntbll309 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1127756-drill-mod-review-what-not-do-end-resluts.html I found a ram adjustable a while back on ebay for $100, but the flange broke after about a year. Try and find a gm one if you can, shouldn't be much different in cost than a Napa one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98WS6 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Luckly Cornwell just showed up and had the tool for $20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Rereading your first post and I realized the pedal stuck, if you can still drive it you should be fine if you don't beat on it. Save your money and buy all the hydraulic and clutch parts at once, buy nice stuff and don't worry about it for a long time. Chances are all the parts are original and could really use refreshed anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98WS6 Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Rereading your first post and I realized the pedal stuck, if you can still drive it you should be fine if you don't beat on it. Save your money and buy all the hydraulic and clutch parts at once, buy nice stuff and don't worry about it for a long time. Chances are all the parts are original and could really use refreshed anyway. The car cant be driven. I would like to replace with all new stuff but funds are limited and i just miss driving the car. Plus my GF's car is down she has been driving my daily while i drove the TA. Its crossed my mind to just run a Autozone CMC with drill mod to get the car back up and running till Winter then i will install the Tick CMC with LS7 Clutch kit OEM Slave. Then continue to save for a Rear end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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