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Lowrider Lincoln


zeitgeist57

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Still waiting for the Brothers Farkas to expound on how I'll hate the manual valves (respek their knowledge), but to share some of my thoughts:

 

- Most of my research showed the cheapest/simplest/most reliable air setup involves manual valves

- This will be my first air ride setup.

- Once the system works, if I need to make upgrades to air lines/air management, I'll be happy to do that. Already I can see that I may upgrade the 5gal tank to a larger capacity aluminum tank at some point soon.

- If an air-ride system makes the car worth a bit more as a finished product, might try to flip it and start another platform.

 

Excited about getting the components! Going to get the Lincoln up in the air this weekend to start measuring.

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Just from the rim pictured in the CL ad there's a huge dent on the left side just below center.

 

BOx came! I thought it would be bigger....and not damaged. LOL

 

http://imgur.com/l20lywBl.jpg

http://imgur.com/NDy3H5Hl.jpg

http://imgur.com/Erik6Lnl.jpg

 

Haven't even had a chance to open it yet...

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I will say that AirSlamIt (which operates several eBay profiles including "wheelsnparts" where I got my schtuff) has been very good to work with. "Edgar" in the sales department has always been good to respond within a day of my messaging.

 

I sent him the pics above and they may be filing a damaged shipment claim with UPS. Still waiting to hear if I should even open the box to see if stuff is damaged or not...

 

EDIT: Edgar came through. "You can open the box and check the product, we try to stay on top of our shipping guys about that. I will make sure they see how the box arrived."

 

Maybe if they packed it in a bigger box with something more solid than pubic hairs for packing material! :lol:

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Still waiting for the Brothers Farkas to expound on how I'll hate the manual valves (respek their knowledge), but to share some of my thoughts:

 

- Most of my research showed the cheapest/simplest/most reliable air setup involves manual valves

- This will be my first air ride setup.

- Once the system works, if I need to make upgrades to air lines/air management, I'll be happy to do that. Already I can see that I may upgrade the 5gal tank to a larger capacity aluminum tank at some point soon.

- If an air-ride system makes the car worth a bit more as a finished product, might try to flip it and start another platform.

 

Excited about getting the components! Going to get the Lincoln up in the air this weekend to start measuring.

 

Sorry, don't visit CR all that often so wasn't able to get back to you right away.

 

In my experience with manual valves, which I had on my white GTI before I sold it, it genuinely made me hate the car for multiple reasons. I also built mine on an incredibly budget minded setup and regretted it from the beginning.

 

Here's what I learned:

 

1. Manual valves are the cheapest because they're literally the worst. They work, but they're terrible for just about everything. You have to run separate air lines from the tank to the valves, to the gauges, and to each of the bags. This means a TON of air lines throughout the car, and the more connection points you have, the better chance for leaks. Placing the valves somewhere with all the lines hanging off the back can be a HUGE PITA as well.

 

2. Run twin compressors before a single with larger tank. A 3gal tank will be good for a single down and up, and the twin compressors will fill it up really quick and reduce run time by a ton. A single will run forever trying to fill a 5 gal, and generally too long before it overheats and causes failed check valves, or burns up the compression ring. Not to mention, if the single compressor fails, you're beached.

 

3. Don't even bother with PTC fittings, and if you do, triple check with soap and water each fitting isn't leaking when they're in place. They leak incredibly easy with any bend or a bad cut in the air line. Compression fittings are the best option, IMO.

 

4. Even if it's the cheapest electronic management, it'll save you a million headaches over manual valves. They install 30x easier with very few wires. No extra air lines other than the ones going to bags which minimizes chance for ruptured lines or leaks. Most have PSI presets so you don't have to fuck with the manual paddles for 15 minutes before you drive to get the ride height right. Also, I would much much much rather replace a bad or stuck valve than chase down 40-50ft of air lines looking for where a damn leak is coming from. The chance of them failing isn't really all that often and if you prep the system with anti-freeze in the winter, you'll never have freezing. Freezing will happen with any system without proper winter prep.

 

TL;DR - Do it right the first time, otherwise you'll hate life.

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  • 2 weeks later...

http://imgur.com/sT4yC1al.jpg

http://imgur.com/VJk7Y1il.jpg

http://imgur.com/BRZX2TQl.jpg

 

Andrew, I totally hear your complaints. Was getting a little nervous about all the tubing needed to make all of this work over the weekend. I priced some Accuair V2 systems, and determined I'll stick with the manual valves for now. I have a 50' reel of DOT air line...which would be fine if I was 'bagging a Smart Car. :lol: I ordered another 100' so I can get from the tank to the switches (all 4 bags will get their own dedicated line from the tank to their switch), then to the bags themselves.

 

Also ordered 25' of 4ga wire to take power from the battery to the trunk. This is a LONG CAR, so I want to make sure I'm not dealing with too much voltage drop over 20' of wire to the compressors!

 

Next up will be cleaning up the trunk, laying the carpet back down, and permanently bolting the tank and compressors in place. Then, running power/air lines, and testing the system for leak-free pressure to the switches/gauges. After that, I'll be measuring the cups for air-bag installation.

Edited by zeitgeist57
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Ohhh Snap! Clay you better already have a section of your closet set aside for "Cruising Outfits" for this thing once it's bagged.

 

http://partycity4.scene7.com/is/image/PartyCity/_ml_p2p_pc_badge_taller15?$_ml_p2p_pc_thumb_nonav_taller15$&$product=PartyCity/463604_full

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http://imgur.com/sT4yC1al.jpg

http://imgur.com/VJk7Y1il.jpg

http://imgur.com/BRZX2TQl.jpg

 

Andrew, I totally hear your complaints. Was getting a little nervous about all the tubing needed to make all of this work over the weekend. I priced some Accuair V2 systems, and determined I'll stick with the manual valves for now. I have a 50' reel of DOT air line...which would be fine if I was 'bagging a Smart Car. :lol: I ordered another 100' so I can get from the tank to the switches (all 4 bags will get their own dedicated line from the tank to their switch), then to the bags themselves.

 

Also ordered 25' of 4ga wire to take power from the battery to the trunk. This is a LONG CAR, so I want to make sure I'm not dealing with too much voltage drop over 20' of wire to the compressors!

 

Next up will be cleaning up the trunk, laying the carpet back down, and permanently bolting the tank and compressors in place. Then, running power/air lines, and testing the system for leak-free pressure to the switches/gauges. After that, I'll be measuring the cups for air-bag installation.

 

You shouldn't have to do four lines from the tank to the switches.. I would run a single 3/8 from the tank to a manifold which then splits it up into four lines into the paddles... THEN you should have four lines going to each corner.

 

Edit* It's also a good idea to include a Schrader valve on the tank in case something keeps the pumps from running and you need to fill up in an emergency. Also, a quick connect for power tools or an air hose to fill up your tires with air is really really handy, too. Absolutely make sure you use water traps unless you want to drive around with a ticking time-bomb in the trunk :)

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Holy shit...I didn't think about going from 4 into 1 BIGGER line...I've seen people who did 4-2-1 holding onto 3/8" or 1/4" line, and I would think that restricts CFM at least up to the switches. I know 1/4" is small, but I did the 4 lines figuring at least the switches would get maximum volume.

 

I also didn't think about the isolator mounts. It would make sense given the difficulty we had in mounting them to the Lincoln. I was on my garage floor for almost an hour for 8 bolts :yuno: If I did the Isolators, I could swap out compressors without laying on the ground.

 

I bought 100' of 1/4" line, but I'm realizing I will probably need all of that just for the switches to the bags, at least 60' assuming I don't make cutting McSteaks. :fa: Thanks again for the idea, I may see if I can get some adapters and 1/2" line.

 

Good call about the water seperators as well, guys. I'm assuming you're talking about in-line between each compressor and the tank, on right and left sides as seen in the picture?

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Holy shit...I didn't think about going from 4 into 1 BIGGER line...I've seen people who did 4-2-1 holding onto 3/8" or 1/4" line, and I would think that restricts CFM at least up to the switches. I know 1/4" is small, but I did the 4 lines figuring at least the switches would get maximum volume.

 

I also didn't think about the isolator mounts. It would make sense given the difficulty we had in mounting them to the Lincoln. I was on my garage floor for almost an hour for 8 bolts :yuno: If I did the Isolators, I could swap out compressors without laying on the ground.

 

I bought 100' of 1/4" line, but I'm realizing I will probably need all of that just for the switches to the bags, at least 60' assuming I don't make cutting McSteaks. :fa: Thanks again for the idea, I may see if I can get some adapters and 1/2" line.

 

Good call about the water seperators as well, guys. I'm assuming you're talking about in-line between each compressor and the tank, on right and left sides as seen in the picture?

 

yup put one on each side inbetween compressors and the tank. SMC makes good traps. If you have the isolator bracket kit I would def use it.

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The only thing I'm hopeful for around vibration (since I've already mounted the compressors) is that there is a s**tton of insulation around the carpet and rubber Dynamat-like material. This thing was well-insulated from the factory in 1978 and everything is in great condition.

 

May just get some more Dynamat and mount it around the compressors...see how that works.

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The only thing I'm hopeful for around vibration (since I've already mounted the compressors) is that there is a s**tton of insulation around the carpet and rubber Dynamat-like material. This thing was well-insulated from the factory in 1978 and everything is in great condition.

 

May just get some more Dynamat and mount it around the compressors...see how that works.

 

I had the isolator kit and even mounted that to wood and 1/2" rubber and it still was kinda crazy.

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Nickey sent me that Blipshift shirt. I geeked out like a nerd and ordered one instantly. :)

 

Sorry for the lack of updates, guys. Was out of town this weekend and the last two days were cray. Hope to get some updates in the next day or so...have all the parts I need...

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