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Used to use Mobil 1 5w30 in my 06 1K. Ran it for the last couple of years and had good result until this last oil change. Supposedly they changed their formula. Welded the push pins together inside the trans shaft and in the process torched my new clutch pak.:confused:

Looking for a comperable oil that is reasonably priced and accessable. Any suggestions?

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smm. you really running car oil in your busa. that oil is designed for something that redlines around maybey 6700 to mabey 7000 rpms. you need to be running at least a synthetic if your gonna be cheap.

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Used to use Mobil 1 5w30 in my 06 1K. Ran it for the last couple of years and had good result until this last oil change. Supposedly they changed their formula. Welded the push pins together inside the trans shaft and in the process torched my new clutch pak.:confused:

Looking for a comperable oil that is reasonably priced and accessable. Any suggestions?

Dude, you are using really lightweight car oil... Bad idea and you paid a price for it...

We use 15W oil in our 1000s for racing. The 1000 really beats the shit out of oil and gets VERY warm and tears it down. 10W is boarderline if changed frequently...

My suggestions is Motul or Repsol. Both have shown significant durability - especially in these 1000s...

Amsoil is "OK", but there isn't any real proof it is better and there aren't many racers using the stuff. Not saying it sucks, just go with what is being used on a regular basis by a larger number of guys that abuse the stuff. If it holds up under the stress and beatings racing offers, it will hold up under street use...

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smm. you really running car oil in your busa. that oil is designed for something that redlines around maybey 6700 to mabey 7000 rpms. you need to be running at least a synthetic if your gonna be cheap.

It is synthetic and it is not "cheap" the whole car oil motorcycle oil debate has been going on since before cars existed. Most of the arguments point out that most car oils have a "energy conserving" label on the bottle and supposedly the chemicals added to get this label dont work well with wet clutches.

Then there are those who refuse to conform and buy expen$ive motorcycle oils and the use 15W-50 which is marketed for deisel trucks and it does not have the "energy conserving" label or the additives. I am sure someone can comment further on this.

An even smaller percentage use Mobil1 race oils found here http://www.mobil1racingstore.com/buyracinglubes.html a<-psst the 15w-50 oil is listed here too

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I agree with vrod while working at battelle they did a study on motorcycle oil , amsoil synthetic was the best on the market , most oils for bike break down about 1500 mile and you change it every 3000. amsoil was not starting to break down till about 2700 mils , i have had all the bikes on it since ive seen the study and my bike runs about 10-15 degrees cooler and the shifting into gears is almost un-noticable . will never go back to cheap oil , but you pay for it i think i payed 11 dollars a quart last time

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It is synthetic and it is not "cheap" the whole car oil motorcycle oil debate has been going on since before cars existed. Most of the arguments point out that most car oils have a "energy conserving" label on the bottle and supposedly the chemicals added to get this label dont work well with wet clutches.

Then there are those who refuse to conform and buy expen$ive motorcycle oils and the use 15W-50 which is marketed for deisel trucks and it does not have the "energy conserving" label or the additives. I am sure someone can comment further on this.

An even smaller percentage use Mobil1 race oils found here http://www.mobil1racingstore.com/buyracinglubes.html a<-psst the 15w-50 oil is listed here too

The 15W Motul and Repsol I was referring to was not the Rotella that I think you are referring to. I wouldn't use 15W in a 750 or 600, either... We used to run 0W when we sprint raced the 600s, but now, I think most guys are running )-5W in the smaller bikes... It's just the big liter bikes really beat the oil up and most if not all 1000 racers are using 15W... Some 10W...

I just do not agree to use car based oils in a bike. The foaming caused by the oil spinning in the clutch is the reason in my mind. I know there are guys using it w/o issue and you'll always find the exceptions, but it just doesn't make sense to gamble with it.

As far as Amsoil goes, you can find tests that show it to be not as good as others, as well... Point is that when you say one oil is best, I doubt you actually tried or tested other oils and really just listened to what was said or saw a test with a limited amount of other oils tested against it.

Maxima, Motul and even companies like ELF have shown us where it counts - on engine tear downs and wear showings on key parts that show typical heat and wear with other oils. Amsoil? Never tested it as I think it is a bit of salesmanship in that how they present the stuff and wonder through the years why they aren't more involved in certain racing series. But, never stated that Motul, Maxima or ELF was the best, either. We've used Royal Purple, ELF, Motul, Maxima, Repsol, and even Honda Synthetic... Maxima and ELF stand out to be the best in that series, but we haven't had as many hours on the other oils to see what they do, but I have seen what they do on other bikes and feel the list of oils we have used show the three I mentioned to work best FOR US.

Use what you want and feel is best for you. However, when you ask on a public forum what tires are best, what oil is best, what brand is best, you're going to get everyone saying what they use is the best... Just understand when a guy states Pirelli is best, they probably haven't tried Metzler, Dunlop, Michelin, Avon, and Pirelli... Like some people have...;)

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I did run castrol 10w40 in the r6, good stuff.

kinda bummed here, no one local stocks the 20w50 in synthetic like my bike calls for :(

might have to run non-synthetic oil, I can get valvoline or castrol.

AND btw, I was looking at oil at the pony, and they had alot of "synthetic blend" oil, sounded interesting but since its not available locally I didn't get it.

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The 15W Motul and Repsol I was referring to was not the Rotella that I think you are referring to. I wouldn't use 15W in a 750 or 600, either... We used to run 0W when we sprint raced the 600s, but now, I think most guys are running )-5W in the smaller bikes... It's just the big liter bikes really beat the oil up and most if not all 1000 racers are using 15W... Some 10W...

I always hear about guys running the shell Rotella but I was talking about the Mobile1 15w-50. I was trying to make the point that there are additives in the car oils that dont work well with a wet clutch, I also wanted to point out that some oils marketed for diesel engine dont have these additives. I am sure you know the advantages of different viscosity oils.

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you make a good point but as far as car oil not being good for the clutch i have to say different just now put a clutch in my bike same one from beginning of last year and it's got a good 300+ passes on an oem clutch so i guess to each their own on the oil i know what works for me.

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I've used mobil 1 10-40 since I got the bike...have had no issues...

and lizard, I do prefer Pirelli BECAUSE I've run metzeler and dunflop. The metzeler had GREAT grip, but burnt off way too fast. If I had infinite funds, and a personal garage, I'd run metzeler 3's all the time. The dunflop "qualifier"(should be "failure") sucked all the way around, low tread life, and no confidence inspiring grip like the PDS or the metzeler.

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30 w is too thin run pennzoil 10w 40 works great won't have any problem a gallon is $12 at walmart

This synthetic stuff?

I've made probably 200+ passes on mine in the last two seasons with 5w30 Mobil 1 car oil with no issues, this is the first issue I've had with the clutch. I swaped the clutch out at the begining of the season just for GP. Have never warped several discs in one shot or notice the push pin issue until first race of this season.

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well Lizard. if you can see the type of bike that i have. I'm not into the race seen. and amsoil is a really good oil. for as hard that i ride mine, and as well it runs. its a 9100 redline cruiser. and I hit that rev limmiter all the time. I can go and just change my oil every 5,000 miles. I would have to say that its pretty damn good.

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well Lizard. if you can see the type of bike that i have. I'm not into the race seen. and amsoil is a really good oil. for as hard that i ride mine, and as well it runs. its a 9100 redline cruiser. and I hit that rev limmiter all the time. I can go and just change my oil every 5,000 miles. I would have to say that its pretty damn good.

Again, your opinion is well noted and appreciate the feedback. BUT, as I stated before, people will say the oil they use is the best because it is what they use. Like the best tire deal. Like the best bike deal. Like the best helmet deal.

If it is a really good oil to you? Use it and tell people when they ask. It's great. But, just as the OP is wondering why he fried his clutch and yet feels the car oil is still fine to use, it is a matter of opinion. Unless you tear the motor down and look at things like the wear items that matter, you'll never know. My opinion is the three oils we have used that I feel is best comes after seeing what over 60 hours at times on a bottom end in severe racing conditions looks like. The three we like best are the ones that showed less wear and tear. That means something. Not what a salesman tells me it should be doing.

While racing is not what you do, understand that racing is where a lot of things are tested and proven. The conditions are severe and will show weakness right away. It's what racing is used for in an effort to make the best product that when used on the street holds up. Because remember, a street motor has more wear and build-up than a race motor gets. You actually stress the motor more in the long run because of how hard the street riding is on a motor...

Oh, and the rev limiter isn't a shift light. You do no good bouncing it off the rev limiter all the time...

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This synthetic stuff?

I've made probably 200+ passes on mine in the last two seasons with 5w30 Mobil 1 car oil with no issues, this is the first issue I've had with the clutch. I swaped the clutch out at the begining of the season just for GP. Have never warped several discs in one shot or notice the push pin issue until first race of this season.

nope just regular old 10w 40. did you put an oem clutch back in it?

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I was talking about the Mobile1 15w-50. I was trying to make the point that there are additives in the car oils that dont work well with a wet clutch, .
Its not the "CAR" oils that cause the Issue.

Its that the Sythetic Oils do not like Wet CLutches.

I have not seen one Manufacturer say that its OK to run Synthetic in a bike with a wet Clutch.

I have alwyas been told and READ in the manuals , specifically NOT to use synthetic oil in a bike with a wet cluthch...so I dont....and I have no issues.

I Use Mobil Clean 5000 in most of my bikes with good success over the years.

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