Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo90,000 milesextremely clean exterior and interiorbrand new hydraulic clutch, tires, other stuffDriven very easyAnyways I'm buying this car from my uncle for $1000. It's a great car but the engine keeps going through head gaskets or something of the sort. Problem is that coolant keeps on getting into the oil and the engine. Also there is an oil leak somewhere, which could be the same problem. My uncle spent close to 12 grand trying to fix this problem through Tansky and AA engine service and they completely screwed him over. Through the fine print they were justified, but they told him different from what the paperwork said. Anyways, point is my mechanic friend thinks that the problem might be the type of head gasket but it could be something major. Does anyone have any experience with these supras or have any good advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Have you looked at the turbo?If you keep blowing head gaskets, then that would often mean higher than normal compression pressures - being a turbo, it's likely too an overboost situation. Has the wastegate and turbo been rebuilt? You might have a sticking spring or something in the wastegate that causes pressure spikes in the intake when you let off the gas, continually stressing the head gaskets until they finally give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin0469 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 get a cheap boost gauge and a manual boost controller. check the wastegate actuator, make sure it can open the wastegate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billharrison Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Supras are fairly notorious for head gaskets. Even the non turbos. If the head gasket was done properly, you should be fine. FelPro Gaskets are generally better than factory issue, so unless they found some really shoddy gaskets, you should be fine there. However, if the problem is recurring even after head gasket job, I would assume you either have a cracked (Possible) head, or warped (Very likely) head, as the straight 6 configuration gives a long flat head which tends to warp badly if ever overheated, and the turbo would just make things worse.If your getting coolant in the oil, AND your sure its the head gasket (There are other ways that can happen, for example an oil cooler which is coolant based, many turbo japanese cars have these) then you are going to need to pull the head back off, and have it checked for cracks and warping. If its been done repeatedly, I would think there is a crack somewhere that is only opening up when it gets hot enough for things to move around a bit, and to be safe I would replace the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f4isvt Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 probably a dumb question but you did get the head resurfaced before reinstalling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 ThanksIt has a boost gauge stock, and i have not driven it. It has been sitting for three years now because last time it had a problem it overheated. Our family mechanic took a quick look and told him the same thing, probably a head gasket. He had it towed to his shop and when they started it up it smoked up the whole shop with the oil/coolant mix and he hasn't cared to fix it since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 As far as i know the head has not been resurfaced, and AA said the head was fine, but neither my uncle or I trust what they say for shit. So the list right now is....Cracked or warped headoil cooleroverboost from the turbobad spring or similar to cause the wastegate to stickmiss anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin0469 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 most, maybe not all, stock "boost gauges" are not actually measuring boost but rather the ECUs estimation of boost given certain conditions. Theoretically, you could unhook one of your IC pipes and have no pressure but the gauge would still read normal pressure.No matter what, you really want to have a boost controller and real gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f4isvt Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I would start by having the head checked for leaks or cracks and always get the head resurfaced before installing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 ah....note taken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 The last two are pretty much the same thing. All turbos "overboost" when you let off the gas, hence the wastegate function.So, it's cracked/warped head, oil cooler, wastegate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 So I've heard...if it's done right will it stop going through gaskets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balaormiga Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I've built a Supra or two in my day. You need to take the head to a reputable machine shop and have them measure it. If you can have some surfacing done you may be fine but on the turbo models you can't shave too much. I recommend a metal head gasket and ARP head studs. I installed a HKS head gasket on my '89 Turbo and never had another issue. I ran about 17 PSI of boost with no worries. I'll try to find a couple links for you... BRB.I agree. Having built several MR2 Turbos. Expect to spend money. Though if you keep it stock it shouldn't be too bad. Look at a Coumetic Gasket as well as an HKS. ARP studs definitely an option. Spending 12 grand .. should never happen. You can buy a practically new motor for waaaay less from Japan.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 At this point i'm just going to keep the car stock...Its a nice car and i want to keep it in the family, my uncle loves the car to death but he has a mental block about spending any more money on it. He's also not the best with the mechanics of cars. Like i said he babied the car. I might just by a new engine, but i would have to sell my 99 Wrangler. That is a money pit right there, i have the choice of dropping two grand on the Jeep to get it fixed, or spending possibly the same amount on the supra and having essentially a brand new car...hrmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Yes, it has everything except the leather interior. Also...anyone know a reputable shop that i can trust this to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleCock Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 gtfo with all this car talk unless you're putting that turbo on your bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f4isvt Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 if you got a garage ill come pull the motor out for you or take the head off which ever route your going. I have a machine shop here i love and use religously if you want me to get the head done for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I might take you up on that offer. We'll see what happens when we tear into it and what resources my friend has available, but I do believe we'll need a machinist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Depends. If the head hasn't been baked to hell and back you should be able to surface the face. The head has to be smooth' date=' flat and within thickness tolerances. If not, you'll have nothing but problems. Also, the face of the block is important. If it's had the shit beat out of it you're kind of up stream without a paddle. I bought a JDM engine from a company in New York for $1400. It had about 40K miles on it. You may want to go that route. Here's one place to look into... [url']http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine_details/toyota_jdm-7m-gte-3.0l-v6-turbo-toyota-supra-1986---1992-engine-only--I was looking at the other engines they have and i saw a twin turbo from another supra, have you had any experience dropping a different engine in 1990 or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 The MKIII Supras are notorious heagasket eaters like everyone has said, but they are all missing a key element here. The bottom end is cast iron and the head is aluminium, so when most people do repair jobs like decking the head and block they dont get the right RA finish on it. Much like sand paper the RA number is smoother the lower the numeric is and the MKIII's require an extremely low/smooth RA finish, other wise the head moves the gasket and block eats the headgasket even on stock boost. While ARPs and a copper headgasket ( not recommended) is a quick fix or even an MLS gasket it wont last long. My suggestion would be to go talk to Mike Phillips at Phillips racing engine in Grove City and see what he recommends, they do quite a few import motors and even some of my personal things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Thanks Schmuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Thanks SchmuckAnytime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoosego Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 The MKIII Supras are notorious heagasket eaters like everyone has said, but they are all missing a key element here. The bottom end is cast iron and the head is aluminium, so when most people do repair jobs like decking the head and block they dont get the right RA finish on it. Much like sand paper the RA number is smoother the lower the numeric is and the MKIII's require an extremely low/smooth RA finish, other wise the head moves the gasket and block eats the headgasket even on stock boost. While ARPs and a copper headgasket ( not recommended) is a quick fix or even an MLS gasket it wont last long. My suggestion would be to go talk to Mike Phillips at Phillips racing engine in Grove City and see what he recommends, they do quite a few import motors and even some of my personal things. is there anything you can't fix on a car.... you sir are awesome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 is there anything you can't fix on a car.... you sir are awesome...Drum brakes and ring/pinions..... I always have trouble with those two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I just assumed that was understood. My bad.not a big deal man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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