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Outside/Inside door handles broke, door is stuck shut. Any ideas or shop reco?


1Quik7

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Yep, it's been one of those weeks. The wife broke the outer handle of her Escalade(60k mi.) on Sunday, no big deal, ordered a new one on Amazon. Monday she goes to pick up dinner and comes in to tell me the inner handle doesn't work as well now.

 

I don't see any way to get the panel off with the door closed.

 

This ever happened to anyone? Is this a dealership issue? Locksmith? Interior Indy shop? Suggestions?

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I don't see any way to get the panel off with the door closed.

 

 

Cut a hole in it, or cut it off completely. How much is a new handle?

 

Could you use JB weld or some such thing to attach something to the broken handle in the door? Like on the end of a plastic rod or something? Can you post pics?

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Cut a hole in it, or cut it off completely. How much is a new handle?

 

Could you use JB weld or some such thing to attach something to the broken handle in the door? Like on the end of a plastic rod or something? Can you post pics?

 

The handles are cheap, but to get to the cable/mechanism that releases the door you have to remove the entire interior door panel.

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I saw a video where they unbolted the front seat, and moved it into the back. That gave them enough access to get the panel loose. They could not remove the panel entirely, but they were able to pull it out enough that they could get access to the inside of the door. I'll see if I can find it.

 

Edited by Richard Cranium
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I saw a video where they unbolted the front seat, and moved it into the back. That gave them enough access to get the panel loose. They could not remove the panel entirely, but they were able to pull it out enough that they could get access to the inside of the door. I'll see if I can find it.

 

 

Make sure you don't disconnect any harness to the seat without research first. I'm guessing these instructions take that into account since you say just unbolt and move back. But I know if it were me doing this, I would want to disconnect and remove the seat all together to make more room to work. I'm not a pro mechanic (far from it) so ease of doing something trumps speed, I like removing more stuff. Butt a pro's going to want to do it as quickly and do no harm as possible, so that probably means just unbolting and moving the seat back without disconnecting. Depending on the year there could be a ton of stuff in the seat, including airbags. Just disconnecting without some process before could make some system unhappy to see something in there disconnected. That could be as simple as disconnecting the battery, or something more complex. Sometimes the system will be happy when things go back to normal e.g. reconnect the seat. But sometimes the cure is much harder than the prevention in these cases, at least needing some code reset in an ECU reset that 'needs' an 'OEM' tool. So, that might mean having to go to a dealer and paying a tech 0.5 hours to do a few minutes of work. All for something that could have been prevented by a battery disconnect.

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Make sure you don't disconnect any harness to the seat without research first. I'm guessing these instructions take that into account since you say just unbolt and move back. But I know if it were me doing this, I would want to disconnect and remove the seat all together to make more room to work. I'm not a pro mechanic (far from it) so ease of doing something trumps speed, I like removing more stuff. Butt a pro's going to want to do it as quickly and do no harm as possible, so that probably means just unbolting and moving the seat back without disconnecting. Depending on the year there could be a ton of stuff in the seat, including airbags. Just disconnecting without some process before could make some system unhappy to see something in there disconnected. That could be as simple as disconnecting the battery, or something more complex. Sometimes the system will be happy when things go back to normal e.g. reconnect the seat. But sometimes the cure is much harder than the prevention in these cases, at least needing some code reset in an ECU reset that 'needs' an 'OEM' tool. So, that might mean having to go to a dealer and paying a tech 0.5 hours to do a few minutes of work. All for something that could have been prevented by a battery disconnect.

 

Solid advice. My Porsche was like this, I had to pay the dealership to turn the light off after disconnecting the seat.

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