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oil pressure light


K8SuzukiGSX-R

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If it was a V-max I'd be more worried when the dam light wasn't on! LOL I went through more YAMA tecks trying to understand why they would put the oil sensor in the front of the pan so that everytime you got on it heavy the oil level light came on. The best was when Competition Accessories told me the way to resolve the problem was to run 20W50 so it wouldn't "slosh" around so much.:rolleyes: They were smoking way too many illegal drugs and drinking on the job! :drink:

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Hey guys i just changed my oil and my oil level reads right between the 2 lines. I used a Fram oil filter and Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil 4 stroke. So far I put a little over 2qts. I started my bike and my oil pressure light won't go off? Did i do something wrong here? I checked for leaks and nothing? any help is appreciated. Thanks!

You might as well put sand in your engine.

get rid of that FRAM junk, I would not even call it a filter. I would call it a piece of crap that allows pieces of the cardboard filter to float around in your engine.

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If it was a V-max I'd be more worried when the dam light wasn't on! LOL I went through more YAMA tecks trying to understand why they would put the oil sensor in the front of the pan so that everytime you got on it heavy the oil level light came on. The best was when Competition Accessories told me the way to resolve the problem was to run 20W50 so it wouldn't "slosh" around so much.:rolleyes: They were smoking way too many illegal drugs and drinking on the job! :drink:

my R6 owners manual says it's normal if it comes on during hard acceleration or up hills.

it never does for me though. I keep it up to the top of the marks on the dipstick.

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05' V-max said nothing about it other than seen dealer mechanic. I tried everything even filling to the top of the site glass. Just plain old bad engineering on that. No matter though I no longer have the V-max, it became the V-strom.

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street 10w40 is plenty.

track it's still enough but 20w might be better instead.

there is a cross reference chart floating around the internet for motocycle filters. it shows you what bikes use the same filters and what filters fit your bike etc.

from that I started using a Purolator PureONE filter that fits a mazda miata.

or you could take yours to the store and find one that is a close match and try it.

I chose a pure one filter because they are supposed to be the best oil filter on the market. (top ranked in ASE testing)

and have a 99.9% efficiency rating @ 20 microns. (that's smaller than a red blood cell!)

Edited by serpentracer
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so if FRAM oil filters are bad. What oil filters do you reccomend? I used K&N last time. I plan on using it next time. No more FRAM for me. I plan on using Shell oil. Does anyone know what weight and type i should buy?

should be 10w40 man. did you read the owners manual? all that info is in there!

oh and oem filters ftw!

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my friend 20w-50 in his gixxer 1000. is that ok for any bike ? or too heavy of an oil

My understanding, so correct me if I'm wrong, is that 20w50 if fine in motorcycles of about any size (in summer). In winter a 20W50 has too high of a viscosity. Your manual should have a oil viscosity chart for diffrent tempratures to help you decide what tempratures are too cold or hot for each viscosity.:)

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/motor-oil-viscosity.htm

When selecting a lubricant, there are three basic rules of thumb to consider:basic-rules.jpg

  • The lower the starting and/or operating temperature, the lighter or thinner the selected oil should be. The higher the staring or operating temperature, the heavier or thicker the selected oil should be.

  • The higher the load a component is subjected to, the heavier or thicker the oil should be. The lighter the load a component is subjected to, the lighter or thinner the oil should be.

  • The faster the operating speed for a piece of equipment, the lighter or thinner the oil should be. The slower the operating speed for a piece of equipment, the heavier or thicker the oil should be. There is no advantage in using heavier oil than is needed. In fact, it can be a disadvantage.

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wouldn't a "heavier load" be considered a "faster speed" ?

I don't use heavy oil in a water cooled bike that is on the street the most. the reason is the thicker it is the longer it takes to start flowing at startup.

air cooled engines have always (from what I've seen) call for 20w oils. my guess is because they get a lot of hot spots in the motor that a thinner oil might burn off from.

and it's said almost 90% of engine wear comes from startup.

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wouldn't a "heavier load" be considered a "faster speed" ?

Read the study about motorcycle oil. It was very interesting. It also described alot of the diffrent characteristics to motor oil.:)

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/study_of_motorcycle_oils.pdf

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