apendix0157 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 bad gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomato_racing Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 I try not to overwork my buddies too much anymore. Hence the reason for electrical tape around my turning signal that got cut in half at the track. And I don't think any of my close riding buddies would know where to start with this one. I would say before anything is done you need to pull that code. Even if the FI light has been on because of an OEM defect there could be other gremlins hiding behind that light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrincessPratt Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 How to pull FI codes from the squid mobile...http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192222Paul I was going to purchase an R6 initially BUT I was too short. Suzukis are the ONLY bike that I feel comfortable on! Thanks guys. We'll see what happens. I get very leary with asking people for help now. I've been accused of "exploiting" this website for help when I need it by certain CBus riders. I mean I thought that's what this was for but o'well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Yes the F1 light has been coming on since I purchased her from Ask. The techs said this was an issue with all GSXR's and it's nothing to worry about. ... and you believed them? I'm floored by that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Sounds like an electrical problem if the FI light is popping on and the shift light will illuminate. I can look at it and wont have it for weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35RFTW Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 I just spoke with my tech and if you can get it to us by 2:00 we will fit it in while you wait. We have the computer to read the codes and have delt with all stock bikes of our own throwing the fi light as well. Give me a calla nd we can set something up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 I can't say anything that hasn't already been said, so I will just say...shoulda got a kawi. :lol:j/k, hope you get it fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomato_racing Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 I've been accused of "exploiting" this website for help when I need it by certain CBus riders. I mean I thought that's what this was for but o'well. Nah, that's what these types of communities are for IMO. Good luck to ya! Don't let that stuff get to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 ... and you believed them? I'm floored by that.LOL thats what happens when your techs are high school kids who got a job there because "bikes are cool" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikZX9R Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 It is a Suzuki I would recommend taking it to a shopat trading it in on a Kawasaki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrjess0815 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Sounds like an electrical problem if the FI light is popping on and the shift light will illuminate. I can look at it and wont have it for weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 its either battery or your butterfly valve on the exaust is sticking. I am 100% sure its one of those 2 things. The little valve on the exaust gets rusted and wont turn therefore chokes the bike out. look down at the the right(brakeside)and turn the key on. Look at the little valve on the exaust and make sure it opens ALL THE WAY then closes all the way. A little lube and i bet ur good to go. DONT TAKE IT TO A DEALER! Call me and i'll walk u through all the steps. 513-678-7686 Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmako777 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 I agree with putting the bike in dealer mode and pulling the code. You should see a code that says -C00. The little dash will tell you your throttle position sensor setting. If it is low try adjusting the tps until it just about hits the top. Just one more thing to look at. I really don't think its the set valve as that wouldn't cause the bike to stall. I assume you have the set still enabled; if so you can rip that thing outta there since its useless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikZX9R Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Yeah that valve in the exhaust is supposed to be closed at low rpm so even if it was stuck shut it is exactly where it should be at low rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 the spring on the valve holds it open. If the servo isnt working the bike will spudder. Marko how do i get rid of that 30th pin thing? Is there instructions anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikZX9R Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Maybe someone else who has more experience with this could chime in but even if the vavle was shut as far as it would go it should run best at an idle like this becuase thats where its supposed to be. Restricted exhuast makes more torque a free flowing exhuast makes more horsepower thats the point of the valve so you can have the best of both worlds. The valve will not completely block off the exhuast even at full closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 on the GSXRs the valve is held open by a spring and the servo motor CLOSES it for starting. If the valve is sticking it will throw a fI light and it will be hard to start unles you give it gas while starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmako777 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Maybe someone else who has more experience with this could chime in but even if the vavle was shut as far as it would go it should run best at an idle like this becuase thats where its supposed to be. Restricted exhuast makes more torque a free flowing exhuast makes more horsepower thats the point of the valve so you can have the best of both worlds. The valve will not completely block off the exhuast even at full closed.the valve is not fully closed in the low range, although it is closed enough to restrict exhaust flow. the valve is nothing more than an emissions control valvethe spring on the valve holds it open. If the servo isnt working the bike will spudder. Marko how do i get rid of that 30th pin thing? Is there instructions anywhere?the pin is a green wire with black tracer located right next to an orange wire with blue tracer if i remember correctly. im pretty sure its the 5th pin from the lefton the GSXRs the valve is held open by a spring and the servo motor CLOSES it for starting. If the valve is sticking it will throw a fI light and it will be hard to start unles you give it gas while starting.the bike will start regardless if the valve is closed/open and/or throws a code. granted it will run like shit if the valve is closed mid-high. rip the fucking thing outta there it doesnt do shit. i did mellos bike and he loved it. i can prolly swing by and help you do it man on tuesday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmako777 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 oh and i can almost guarantee this is a tps issue. its very easy for it to come out of adjustment and will make the bike feel like its stuttering down low. i had the exact same problem although mine didnt stall. adjusted the tps and havent had a problem since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 oh and i can almost guarantee this is a tps issue. its very easy for it to come out of adjustment and will make the bike feel like its stuttering down low. i had the exact same problem although mine didnt stall. adjusted the tps and havent had a problem sinceBut that doesnt explain the FI light going on and off then the shift light blinking, almost sounds like the bike has a loose connection to the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisoh Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 its either battery or your butterfly valve on the exaust is sticking. I am 100% sure its one of those 2 things. The little valve on the exaust gets rusted and wont turn therefore chokes the bike out. look down at the the right(brakeside)and turn the key on. Look at the little valve on the exaust and make sure it opens ALL THE WAY then closes all the way. A little lube and i bet ur good to go. DONT TAKE IT TO A DEALER! Call me and i'll walk u through all the steps. 513-678-7686 BrandonBrandon the valves at idle are in the lowest position already so that wouldn't cause the bike to die at idle. And would have more issues up top if it was shut enough to cause idle issues.The only difference on that is it wont make full power over 7k rpm when it is supposed to open. I rode a R1 with a seized shut EXUP on track and it ran fine just no power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Ok, since we have everyone telling you what it is and telling you to start ripping the tank off, pulling pumps, pulling throttle bodies, etc...Get with someone who can use a piece of safety wire and cross the points to read the codes. The FI light comes on to designate an issue. The idiots at ASK are just that - idiots... The FI light will pull a code. That code will tell you EXACTLY what the issue is.IF, it is the STVA (Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator), it is covered under the emissions warranty by Suzuki. All you need to do is see what code it is and it will tell you. If in fact it is the STVA, then take it to a reputable dealer (Suzuki) and tell them the STVA is bad and the code number. Once you give them that and they verify, tell them that Suzuki covers the throttle bodies (You cannot buy just the STVA on it's own - you have to buy the whole throttle body assembly so, it is all covered) under the emissions warranty which is FIVE YEARS AND UNLIMITED MILES. If you are outside that, you are not able to get it covered.If you are outside the 5 years, you can still get it fixed and it is REALLY simple to do.Again, don't go pulling off everything and doing what internet prognosis is telling you. Get a read on the code (If nobody near you knows how to pull a code with a piece of wire, take it to Cycle Search and have them do it as he offered and will do it cheap it sounds) first. The code will pop up on the dash where the temp and miles are around. The code is a series of numbers and the letter "C". Write the codes down and ask for someone with a Suzuki Service Manual to tell you what it means. You'll have an answer in literally 5 minutes. And, without tearing shit apart...The STVA will at times make it tough to start when cooler out. But, not really an issue. Sounds like fuel obviously, but w/o knowing what code is being thrown, you are simply guessing and either you'll throw a bunch of money at it or waste your time. Pull the codes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35RFTW Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 If she will bring it to us, I will see that we will pull the code at no charge. It only takes a few minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashweights Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 The only other possibility is it needs new Spark plugs, but you would notice issue also at higher RPM.Not necessarily. I had sputting due to way overgapped plugs in my car recently and at higher rpms the sputtering resolved somewhat. Change them out and make sure you get some good, pregapped plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin0469 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 wow 52 posts since this morning... only threads started by girls! I'm pulling the codes for her later tonight and see what we find. shouldn't be anything crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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