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530 vs 520, xring vs oring


Looney

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I need a new chain and sprockets. I've been to Cycle Search and Da Pony, and was told different things by both. One says the 530 xring is better, the other says the 520 oring is the way to go. I don't know enough to filter the two. I need the help of my fellow OR people to get the knowledge together to make a decision.

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Loonz, I went through This a couple months back. There are so many optins it's hard to pick. I would say stay with your stock size sprok n chain. Change the tooth size if you want. But then a speedo healer is needed. Or not. The new chains have a crazy high tensile strength and will last quite a while if taken care of. As far as X vs O, I went with DIDs xring VM2.

Good Hunting.

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520 chain is lighter and still has far more tensile strength than your r6 could ever need the x ring is a better design on the oring "more durable and tends to hold onto lube better" both are still orings just different design the r6 has a decent final drive ratio dont know that id change sprocket sizes . definatly wouldnt change the rear but the fronts are cheap get a stock one and a -1 try em both see what you like better but 520 xring all the way !

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Easy. 520 o-ring is a minimum, and 530 x-ring is a max. either one is light years better than chains used in the past. Jagr says it, stay stock unless there is a reason. Racing, stunting, drag racing, etc. Or your stock sprockets are worn out and need changing anyway. And DID chains are pretty economical, and very strong.

For your chain size requirement, look either in your owner's manual or service manual or look here: http://www.didchain.com/specs.htm

520 chain conversions are a hot topic, and a trick thing to do. You will give up a little tensile strength in the chain, compared to the 530. No big deal.

I went with a DID 530 x-ring (X2) also. 530 o-ring is stock on my bike. X-ring description is here: http://didchain.com/xring1.htm

Note: you can still buy old world chains, that cost only pennies. They don't even have 0-rings in them. Noisy and need mandatory maintenance extremely often. These type chains should be removed to be cleaned, and will wear out quickly.

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what ever you do, when your chain is wore out replace your sprockets too not just the chain

I'll go out on a limb here, and say I don't replace sprockets unless the sprocket is worn. And I've never had to replace a sprocket.

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better chain life if replaced together and sprockets are cheap chains are not thats why i say that . suppose you dont have to but thats my choice and the choice of most top mechanics but all up to personal preference

Agreed. Sprockets are cheap enough.

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Thanks fellas. I am in need of a new chain and was told it's best to change the sprockets as well. I asked both about replacing the stock stuff and that's how all this shit started.

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Reconrat turned me to indysuperbikes.com when I was where you are looney.

I bought a DID and a supersprox stealth sprocket from them. They had the best price at the time. Look em up.

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You'll find that a shop mechanic will tell you to do both chain and sprockets. Basically the sprockets are right there while doing the chain. So it pretty much gets covered by the same labor charge. Sort of like doing the timing belt while replacing the timing cover gasket on a car. If you do your own work, it doesn't much matter.

Other than that, the factory service manual will say replace sprockets when they are worn. A small amount of wear might happen if existing sprockets are reused. I've never really seen anything terrible happen, unless the rear sprocket is not lined up right, and then the sprocket and chain wear out terribly fast.

I'd say a dirty chain and sprockets will wear it all out faster than anything else. Sand and grit and gunk will do it. Riding through rain will get all sorts of grit up off the road and all over the chain. Wiping it and lubing it after riding in the rain is a good idea. Do not ever run the engine to turn the rear wheel to wipe or lube a chain. The chances of losing fingers is extremely high.

Like I said, I've worn out a few chains, but never a sprocket. And haven't seen a chain wear much faster for using the old sprockets over again. I've never had to buy more than one chain for each bike. (Except that HP modified bike that ate chains.) But even I'm considering changing the sprockets now, just for fun. I've got a new chain I've not put on yet. I'm now looking for rear sprockets... Maybe something UberGeeky...

And yeah, http://www.indysuperbike.com/customer/home.php was the cheapest place I found for chain and sprocket sets. And they offer the DID and a couple of other excellent chains.

Ok, the 520 chain and sprocket sets are hard to find on the Indy website. Look here:

http://www.indysuperbike.com/customer/product.php?productid=1000000&cat=34118&page=1

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Did we mention that the stock sprockets are steel? And that most of the after market sprockets are aluminum. Some are steel, but at a higher price. The aluminum sprockets might wear faster. This I don't know about, I've only used steel.

Front sprockets can wear faster, since they are smaller and turn more times. Rear sprockets get all the exposure to the road.

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I had a R6 and went with 520 conversion D.I.D. ERV3 chain. Renthals -1f / +1 rear sprockets and it was a excellent setup. Speedo healer is needed since changing gearing will throw it off up %15 or so. I did the same for my R1 but went with Driven sprockets and RK GB520GXW chain this time. Shipped to my door for $185 from motomummy. They give $5 discount at checkout and free shipping, plus I messed up the rivet link and they sent a new one free as other stores charge $15 for it. http://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=270

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im still looking for my kit now too and im still up in the air :(

Up in the air about what? The sizes, brand, material or store to buy it from?

I always go 520 chain, I usually go -1f/+1 rear so I can keep my rear wheel in about same location as stock but going with stock front and +2 rear is a great in between setup. 520 chain with alum. sprockets won't last as long but I don't do many miles in a year so it isn't a issue for me.

I have used AFAM, Renthal, Sprocket Specialist and now Driven. AFAM is excellent quality but the color is a bit ruff looking, Renthal is just as good and comes in a goldish bronze color a bit nicer than AFAM's color, SS comes in colors but the last set I bought the rear sprocket was just a tad out of round which created a tight spot in my chain so I went with Driven in black this time. Driven comes in different colors.

All sprockets mentioned come in hard anodized aluminum, I don't believe Vortex is hard anodized so I never tried them. Stealth comes with aluminum center and steel teeth. Good chains are DID ERV3, GBRK520GXW (gold or silver), EK MVXZ (comes in colors).

Motomummy has best prices..

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Up in the air about what? The sizes, brand, material or store to buy it from?

material brand and where i can find what i want.

im looking at a few different places right not havent checked moto mummy yet.

i know i wanna keep stock sizing cuz my bike is just right for me and i dont wanna mess with a speedo healer.

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so far this is the cheapest i have found. what do you think of this....... http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=1081

same thing at Indysuperbike for 133.95

http://www.indysuperbike.com/customer/product.php?productid=1000000&cat=34118&page=1

change the options to match what you want

check the shipping on both to see which is really cheaper

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I even ordered the wrong chain cause I'm a fuktard.

I emailed them and said I fukd up and ordered a silver chain and I wanted a black and gild one. I was willing to pay shipping. They said nope we got it. They shipped it that day with a return label for the silver one. Wow. That's customer (fuktard) service.

I'll def give them some biz next time I need something.

Well after I look at tobefast.com that is. :p

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