Jump to content

NMR: Where to buy capacitor?


Likwid

Recommended Posts

Smoked the capacitor on a hand-me-down drill press today but I'm not where where to go to get a new one.

Need a round 16mF 250V AC, any ideas?

Also, the issue was that the motor was slow getting up to speed and never really flipped off the capacitor so *pop* :)

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apparently, they use caps with similar specs on washing machines and air conditioners. This link lists them for sale (in the UK), but it might give you more ideas on what other places might carry what you need.

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/washing-machines/whirlpool/p/1085/278/0/0/495455/capacitor-16mf.html

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the drill press?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apparently, they use caps with similar specs on washing machines and air conditioners. This link lists them for sale (in the UK), but it might give you more ideas on what other places might carry what you need.

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/washing-machines/whirlpool/p/1085/278/0/0/495455/capacitor-16mf.html

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the drill press?

Kind of, it's a Craftsman, pretty old I think. I called their service line but no answer and the Sears parts website only sells the motor, they don't even have the little metal cover OR the capacitor shown on the parts breakout.

Checked your link, holy crap that's expensive, everything I was seeing online showed ~6 dollars.

I did find this (it's almost an exact copy of the one I need) but I can't find it locally or even know where to go.

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/yhrelectron/product-detailzeBQTxygHLkj/China-Motor-Run-Capacitor-CBB60-.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the motor is a PSC...it doesnt "Flip" the Capacitor off per se'.

What does the Cap say on it....370V I would assume and 16uf?

Is it a plstic Cap or a Metal Capacitor.....That will tell me if its a RUn or Start Cap.

Any Electric motor shop or rebuild shop in your area should be able to fix you up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the motor is a PSC...it doesnt "Flip" the Capacitor off per se'.

What does the Cap say on it....370V I would assume and 16uf?

Is it a plstic Cap or a Metal Capacitor.....That will tell me if its a RUn or Start Cap.

Any Electric motor shop or rebuild shop in your area should be able to fix you up.

Plastic with 2 wires coming out of it 250V AC 50/60 Hz 16micro F+/- 5% -25/70 degrees C

What I was reading said that once the motor gets up to speed it should cut off power to the capacitor... right? (so not flip off, but it shouldn't have smoked it)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Air conditioner motor capacitors are that size and shape and connectors:

Try a local air conditioner or motor repair shop?

Might have to settle for 15mFD.

Hopefully cheaper than what I see for prices...

15 MFD or UF @ 370 VOLTS, ROUND

capacitor_2_141x278.jpg

Round (Single)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I work in HVAC service...this is why I pointed him where I did.

And You can go up on the voltage....and slightly up on the uf......But don't go down on the uf.

Yeah... not finding 16mFD capacitors...

except at Digikey, and they want $33.51 for Capacitor for EBM Multi-Speed Blowers, and can't see a pic of it, no dimensions.

Grainger got 15mFD 370VAC for $8.50

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2MEC5

edit: I agree though, it's going to have to be a snipe hunt, take the part, and start visiting shops that do motor repair till you find one that matches up.

Edited by ReconRat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

He just needs to step up to an 18 or a 20...a 15 isn't going to cut it depending on its tolerance.

The machine and motor is old....Likely odds are that the motor is getting weak and really put a strain on the current cap. If he steps it up a bit....it would do nothing but help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But wait... there's more!

Bob Vila has the answers...

http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Craftsman_drill_press_capacitor_info-Tools-1-T2013.html

The Sears part number is OR90168, cost was $4.14 + shipping.
And searching the Sears Parts Direct brings up:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showPart.pd?partNumber=OR90168&productGroupId=0009&supplierId=152&pathTaken=&filterPart=&pop=flush

It's now a substitute capacitor and now $6.99,

but hopefully that's the equivalent part you're looking for. Or so it says...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ummm, the jokers in that Bob Vila thread might be talking about more than one model of drill press. The guy with the part number, is not the same guy that posted the capacitor specs. Sooo, make of it what you will. It might be the part number for the 16mFD 250VAC, and it might be something else for a different model drill press.

edit: I also get the impression from googling around, that an old motor might pop the new capacitor. You might want to go up a bit in mFD for a replacement?

Edited by ReconRat
more
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have I not said this in at least two posts in this thread already?

uf is Capacitance....Or what you are referring to as mfD.

Yeah, I know... but I didn't want to look up the ASCII code for that funny looking little μ ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, I was confused by the original post-- I saw 'mF' and thought he meant 'milli-Farad', which would be a goddamn bigass cap. If he means micro-Farad (uF), that would make a big difference. The ones in the link I posted show 'mF', so I'm inclined to think that's why they're so expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry, yah I was looking for micro... I think I'll try to find a local shop on Monday/Tuesday if not I'll just buy on Sears' site...

I tried the drill without a capacitor and sure enough it works just like it did before so I'm pretty sure the reason it won't run on high RPM is because the motor doesn't have enough juice by itself... but I'm not electrical enginerd :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, I was confused by the original post-- I saw 'mF' and thought he meant 'milli-Farad', which would be a goddamn bigass cap. If he means micro-Farad (uF), that would make a big difference. The ones in the link I posted show 'mF', so I'm inclined to think that's why they're so expensive.

me too, one of those I looked up was probably milli and expensive..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those wont work.....You guys are looking at caps for Electronic components....The numbers may say its the same "Numerically" but they just are not the same.

Call an electric motor shop Like I said...Seriously....Or I can price/Find you one on monday....I know exactly where to get on locally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh....and I have never hear nor seen a "Milli" Farad capacitor....I dont think that exists.

mF is MicroFarad...as well as the "uf" Designation. Bigger than micro would be Full Farad Capacitors.....Like those use in Automotive applications....but they arent made to handle the voltage.

Either way.....If you want me to find you one Monday Likwid.....I will.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here you go Likwid. </p>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M5PTQM" target="_blank">Amazon.com: Back to the Future: Flux Capacitor Replica Unlimited Edition: Toys & Games</a>

i'm not sure the drill press goes 88, do you have a mobile tach??

Matt I'll let you know Monday afternoonish, it's no rush... don't need the drill anytime soon lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh....and I have never hear nor seen a "Milli" Farad capacitor....I dont think that exists.

mF is MicroFarad...as well as the "uf" Designation. Bigger than micro would be Full Farad Capacitors.....Like those use in Automotive applications....but they arent made to handle the voltage.

Either way.....If you want me to find you one Monday Likwid.....I will.

Matt, your sources are indeed the best chance to get a good replacement part. We're just trying to help as best we can.

And there is indeed a milliFarad. Which means websites using mFD or MFD everywhere on the web for microFarad is just confusing. Using uF is way better. Because mFD might mean micro or it might mean milli. One typical convention is using mF for milli, and mf (lower case f) for micro. (Or vice-versa, I've seen it used in reverse, even more confusing.) A practice I don't care for. It's too easy to confuse the two and make an error. Usage in radio electronics where MFD is used for micro and MMFD is used for pico (micro-micro) doesn't help either.

1F = 1000 mF = 1,000,000 μF = 1,000,000,000 nF = 1,000,000,000,000 pF

1μF = 1,000 nF = 1,000,000 pF

edit: I don't want to mislead. MF, mf, mF, etc all refer to milli farad. Uf, UF, uf, uF, etc all refer to micro farad. Any device labeled mF or mf is very likely to be actually uF micro farad. Somewhere some manufacturer decided to set a practice that still confuses people. Milli farad and nano farad just aren't used for much at all.

Edited by ReconRat
clarity
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...