Todd#43 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 .45mm gasket thickness (stock is .6mm)Makes for a tight package for sure. Any problems with valve float on the 600's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Since Reuben has a twisted sense of humor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowbusa Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 True. The main thing that I'm trying to accomplish is to make sure that the pistons and valves aren't going to meet at high RPM's. With the way that these superstock engines are modified, we see compression ratios go from stock to as high as 15:1! Piston to valve clearances are much more vital than just tuning with cam numbers. Some of the 600's are so tight that you just have to live with whatever lobe center numbers you end up with to insure at least minimum piston to valve.true true i have to run a .50 piston to head on my bike with the 5mm stroker crank so rod stretch so the piston doesnt hit on spray with a 100 wetis this the same set up know as supersport in drag racing they degee the cams and deck the head .25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Ok, some updates and maybe some tips for you track day guys...First of all, let me just say the quality of work here. I'm about as picky and detailed a person as anyone. If you've seen my stuff, you know I am particular about details and about how well maintained and clean everything is...Reuben was VERY thorough and detailed on the motor, the forks and the shock. Everything was clean and it certainly wasn't the cleanest when I took it to him. I usually do clean everything, but it was freezing cold when I took the stuff over and I didn't do what typically I do when taking someone something.Reuben doesn't charge for cleaning a thing. He does it all so it is as fresh and perfect as it can be when returned...Here's my first tip to you all. CLEAN your stuff before you take it to him. The guy is super cool about cleaning stuff, but the deal is that he's busting his balls for us all when doing our work and the last thing he needs is a motor packed with grime and grease or a set of forks with enough brake dust to scrape off and make a paperweight out of...SIMPLE GREEN, folks. works wonders!So... On to the finishing touches...Got the motor back and everything. Since having a bare chassis, it was time (as done every season) to clean and lube the following:-Swingarm bolt-Shock mounting bolts and linkage bolts and bearings-Steering head and bearings-Lube all threads, as well with product shown belowBasically, I use Finish Line's Anti-Seize on threads. This allows the best torque on certain bolts and nuts, but it also prevents corrosion and the fact that two different metals are being used - steel into an aluminum threaded body, for example.The stuff I use is found at any bicycle shop and one tube will do the whole bike from axle threads to pinch bolts on the triples...I start by taking out the swingarm bolt to clean and re lube. This bolt is usually NEVER maintained. Racers and track day riders should ALWAYS do this. From the factory, there is little if ANY lube on your swingarm bolt. This is bad. Very bad...I have the frame on jackstands via the rear foot pegs. If you have street pegs that fold, you'll have to figure something out, I guess. Solid mount pegs are used in our application here.I pull the bolt, inspect and clean. I then re lube using the Maxima synthetic grease. I use the anti-seize on the threads. Install and torque.Now time to get to installing the rear shock. I lube the bolts and clean and re lube the bearings. This is something that is typically overlooked and IF you get your shock serviced, you really need to do this part or you are somewhat short sheeting yourself... I use Maxima synthetic grease and the anti-seize on the threads...I wrap the shock with an ATV shock cover. This keeps the grime and rubber off the shock and when time comes to adjust the spring, it is easy to work as it has been protected and not full of dirt in the threads...Once the shock is on, I take the frame off the jackstands. I then use the swingarm stand from here on out...Now since the motor is going in next, I use the anti-seize on the adjustable spacers that thread into the frame...The long and short is that installing the motor is time consuming for a newbie. What I do to make things move along quicker is at time of taking the motor out, I put bolts in baggies. Label to where they belong and when time comes to put it all back together, I know what bag to grab and where bolts go. It's like clockwork for me, but a new at this person may get over their head if they do not do this series of steps.Anyways, everything is bolted and torqued...Now that the motor is in, I have to take apart the steering stem and triples. The front is on a stand so, you need to grab a small jack (scissor is best) and place under the front of the motor. This allows you to drop the stand and remove the triple tree system.I pull and remove the bearings. Inspect and clean. Re lube with the Maxima synthetic grease and use anti-seize on the threads. I also remove the pinch bolts and clean and use the anti-seize on threads...I then get the thing reassembled and ready for the top triple tree to go on. DO NOT mount the top triple clamp. This needs to be loose until you get forks on. I zip tye the clip-ons during the whole process to the top triple to keep them up and away and not to have tension on brake lines and wires...Once the steering stem is back on, I put the stand back on the front and remove the jack. I then move to wiring and assembly of things like the throttle bodies, etc. Here again, I do something to make life easier. I label every connection a number 1-9 and after that, letters A-Z. This allows me to know one, how many connections. I had 9, for example. Plus the 4 for the coils... So, I run through, connect all of the connections easily and quickly.Now time to do the exhaust. It is a great time as the radiator is off and you have easy access to the header bolts and can wire without scarring your hands...Next, the radiator and oil cooler. Connect all wires that are left and connect hoses. Make sure nothing is pinched and can pass through the frame easily and be allowed to swell slightly. 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Moto-Brian Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Once that is done, it is time to install forks. Forks are somewhat easy to do. I start by getting them put in so the top triple tree can be mounted. It doesn't matter at this stage how far up they are, just make sure they are above the top triple. You will also slide them up through the clip-ons at this stage and not worry about mounting them tight...I torque the bottom triple to spec just to hold the forks up. I ten mount the top clamp and torque the nut to spec. Once torqued, you can then adjust the height you desire to the top triple. Do each side and torque to spec. I then move to clip-on position. This is set per rider's desire. I leave about 5 mm from the bottom of the top triple to the top of the clip-ons. This allows for up and down adjustment depending what track and where I want to be on the bike... Once adjusted, the steering and front suspension is setSome markings that say a lot of words...Now, I wire the little things. I do the case cover inspection cover... I use heat shrink tubing to protect the cover from getting scratched by the wire... Note the header bolts are wired. This is something racers have to do...I then make small adjustments like the QS positioning of the actuating arm, etc...At this stage, it is the small things that catch you off guard. I run through the whole system and inspect everything. I have a check list that I review... Add oil and new filter...I then connect the battery and leave the fuel pump and tank disconnected. I turn the bike over a few times to prime the pump. Then, I connect the tank and pump and fire her up. Listen for anything weird or out of place and let it climb hot enough to open the thermostat. Once that happens, shut her down and let her cool a bit. I inspect everything again and then after a good bit of time (great time to put away tools, clean up, etc...), I re-fire the motor and let it climb in temp and check again. THING IS AWESOME!!!At this stage it is showing to be fine and together correctly. I slap on bodywork simply to get it off the shelves and some of it out of the house...Here's what she looks like sans wheels...I will now get it ready for April and it's first event. The way I will go is to run it and get load put on it but not hit the rev limiter or get to red line... I will do that up until lunch and afterwards, let her eat!She is going to be awesome as it is completely fresh with the job Reuben has done. This is new all the way through and should show how good it really is. It was probably timing out slowly last year and probably should have been done at the start of 2009. But, we are done now and it will be good for some time now.Special thanks to Reuben at 35 Motorsports. If you guys are racers out there, you need to keep motors fresh. They time out and slowly drop their power and performance. Too often, riders get "used" to their bikes and really don't notice the drop in performance until it breaks. Breaks cost a LOT more to fix. If you want to excel and be up front, you need to maintain things...Track day riders,, you owe it to yourself to maintain and do some of the things listed here. Maybe not motor work, but at least do suspension. Stock stuff isn't going to last under you as you progress. You WILL notice a change and you WILL be allowing the bike to work better for you.Suspension is something that ALL riders need to look at. Even aggressive street riders. Racers tend to never freshen up their stuff when they should. 2-3 seasons isn't enough. Just changing fluids isn't enough. You need to make sure things are maintained and that all updates are installed. That's what got me. These gas forks had an update and the update is heads and shoulders above the previous. I was missing out...Get things done and try to do them in the winter when it is slow and you're not riding. It's tougher to get yourself to do it mid season or especially when you break something...See you guys out there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Purty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJC1000rr Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 I felt really bad when I got to Rueben's with my bike. The blizzard pretty much trashed it even with the cover on it. I have seen the light and are in the market for an enclosed trailer now. To bad they cost an arm & leg for anything decent. ($2k+)Wish I was brave enough to try taking a motor out like that. But kodo's to you B! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 taking the motor out isn't too bad at all steve, just a few wire clips and hoses and of course the engine mount bolts.like brian said, label everything and bag it as well as lots of pics your first time. also as far as bolts and what not i like to follow the "put it back" method after i take them out so they are waiting for me exactly where they need to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 nice pics......i need to find someone thats good with suspension to help me set mine up before I hit the track late april. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 nice pics......i need to find someone thats good with suspension to help me set mine up before I hit the track late april.Reuben at 35 Motorsports, man. Give him a call. 20% off labor and he can get you EVERYTHING from Ohlins to Penske to GP Suspension, etc. Hell, if it is just springs and oil you want? He can do it and I can deliver and bring back for free...Just gotta call him. 317-850-3884 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 I felt really bad when I got to Rueben's with my bike. The blizzard pretty much trashed it even with the cover on it. I have seen the light and are in the market for an enclosed trailer now. To bad they cost an arm & leg for anything decent. ($2k+)Wish I was brave enough to try taking a motor out like that. But kodo's to you B!Dude, that thing was nasty! But in typical Reuben fashion, he got her looking good. i saw it right before you came to get it and looked pretty clean considering...Get yourself an enclosed. Honestly, buy a new one vs. a used one. The reason being is that a new one isn't too far off what these guys are asking for new. The guy near me sells them cheaper than anyone I have seen and even though you can save more down south in GA, etc., you have to account for driving, fuel costs, food, and even hotel possibly... That cost added to the trailer equals out.PM me for his info... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJC1000rr Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Pm Sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 nice pics......i need to find someone thats good with suspension to help me set mine up before I hit the track late april.i think he means with the actual setup... rebound/compression clicks, preload setting sag, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 i think he means with the actual setup... rebound/compression clicks, preload setting sag, etc...Hell, just come to the track or maybe we need to do a suspension day where I can convince Reuben to come to CBus and we help all you folks out. What do you guys think of that? Maybe do a deal where we get Reuben say, gas money and we get some pizzas, etc... I can ask his thoughts, but maybe even if we incorporate a site sponsor like Pony or something and usetheir parking lot/garage or something??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 That would be pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 that would be tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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