redkow97 Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I finally got a chance to take a real look at my crash damage last night, and the news is definitely POSITIVE - the section of ram-air tube that i could not find in the grass is still attached to the bike! $20 saved.- the bike would previously, crank, but not start. Reconnecting all the harness plugs that came undone (duh) fixed that. It fired right up!- with the harness reconnected, the gauges now "work" again, but the tach needle is not oriented correctly.^ THIS is what I need to fix, to save myself $200 on used gauges. The needle works fine, but its frame of reference is off. If I manually move it to 0, and then turn on the bike, it sweeps up to 16k, then back down past 0, and sits in the wrong spot. if i rev the bike 2,000 rpm, it moves back to 0 on the gauge.turning the bike off and back on will yield a comparable result, but with a different starting point for the needle. Next time it might start at 7,000 rpm. reving 2k will show 9,000.My concern is that i'm fucked here, but maybe not. Anyone think there's a chance to fix it? all the idiot lights are working, and the fuel gauge seems correct.the tip-over sensor also works. I had to hold it upright to get the bike to run, but purposely let it fall sideways to make sure the bike shut off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Not too electronic-saavy with bikes but don't most all mfg's use the tach to display fault codes?? Don't know whether it would show codes after starting the bike, but could be a possibility? If it's truly a tach issue, I'd triple check the pickup's position over the tach rotor / related wiring and connections........Someone with real working knowledge may know better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Just take the 3 screws off the back, pop the needle of and place it back on pointing at the 0 position after it runs through a start up. If you turn the key, it should run through the start up procedure and the pin will be set at 0 and unless something is loose or the motor is broke, it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 This may be a dumb question, but why do you even need to salvage the cluster? If it's a trackbike, all you need is a new e-tach right? Those are cheap aren't they?Or, you can probably find another one at a bike boneyard for cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 remove needle like said above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 if i turn the key to the "on" position, the gauges will "cycle" through, but then they do not return to 0 on the tach.And yes, all I really NEED is a cheap tach, but I am hoping to preserve the idiot lights (neutral and oil, at least), as well as the fuel gauge and speedometer, if possible.Until I get new throttle cables, I can't really test to see if it's working right. I started the engine before the gauges were hooked up, and did not re-start it after I plugged them in, so I'll try that, then take the back off if they're still effed and see if that helps.I guess the next step is deciding if a cheap tach is the fix, or used gauges can be found for marginally more money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Uhhm.. if memory serves me, there is generally a pin that keeps the needle from going past zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 if i turn the key to the "on" position, the gauges will "cycle" through, but then they do not return to 0 on the tach.I am saying to cycle it with the tach needle off. Once it has cycled through you can put the needle back on the 0 marking. As long as the motor/connection to needle is not messed up the calibration will make that 0 marking correct. With the needle on, the calibration will cause the needle to spin on the shaft of the motor if it is beyond ~2000rpm off or so and make it unrepeatable. -Open cluster, take off needle, plug in and turn key, put needle on, test and then re-assemble. With the key on, the motor will have some resistance when putting the needle back on to make sure you don't spin it accidentally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 yeah think of it like zeroing out a scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxerlife Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Use a fork out of your kitchen drawer to pop the needle off, move it back as needed for it to zero, and reseat the needle.. Had a similar problem with my RR after changin the leds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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