kawi kid Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 I got a problem and i know how i want to take care of it but im just looking for opinions or suggestions. MY battery is not totally dead just not enough juice to crank the motor:mad:. So the logical thing is charge the battery, but i really dont wanna take the bike apart to get the battery out. what i want to do is charge it while its in the bike but im worried about fryin my ecm. i was just gonna put in on a 2amp charge but im still worried.So is this gonna be a total back fire or am i gonna be ok. And the next question is where is the optimum place to hook the negative hook up. (other than the negative terminal duh) I dont think i can get the the neg terminal with out taking the gas tank off.thanks for the opinions and help. like i said im just worried about frying computer stuff.B.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 It should be ok on 2amp. Most trickle chargers put out around 1.2-2amps. Honestly though if you can get to your battery, just disconnect the leads for the bike and hook up your charger. Dont be lazy, its not worth it.. Do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 do it right and take your time. not worth screwing something else up over a stupid mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 if i take the tank off i can get to the positive terminal. if i want the whole battery out to charge it out of the bike i have to remove the gas tank. i was thinking if i could get the positive leads disconnected it should be fine right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Suggestion for next time - take the battery out in the winter and store it inside in room temp. I have done this for years and never even need to charge it. If I do, it is minimal...Another note - DO NOT start your bike up and run it over winter in an effort to keep the battery charged. All it does is actually drain teh battery every time you do that. You need a certain RPM under load to get the battery charged via being connected to the charging system of the bike.For now, the suggestions listed are good to go with. Buy a Battery Tender and you'll be set for next time. For now, give her the proper charge and don't hook it up until you go riding again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Suggestion for next time - take the battery out in the winter and store it inside in room temp. I have done this for years and never even need to charge it. If I do, it is minimal...Another note - DO NOT start your bike up and run it over winter in an effort to keep the battery charged. All it does is actually drain teh battery every time you do that. You need a certain RPM under load to get the battery charged via being connected to the charging system of the bike.For now, the suggestions listed are good to go with. Buy a Battery Tender and you'll be set for next time. For now, give her the proper charge and don't hook it up until you go riding again....thanks for the info the year before i actuallyl kept my bike in the house but i remodled and couldnt get the bike in anymore. i just wanna make sure im on the same page now. the suggestions listed you agreed with are just go ahead and put the 2 amp charge on it and disconnect the positive leads to protect the fuel injection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC51 John Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I have a battery tender jr. It come with connections that can be attached directly to the battery. I leave it charging all winter. 3 winters with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zorro Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I have a battery tender jr. It come with connections that can be attached directly to the battery. I leave it charging all winter. 3 winters with no problems.This is what I have too. However, I do not use these connections. On the R1, i just attach the alligator prongs to the battery while it's still on the bike. I did this with my CBR as well. Never had a problem. When I start my bike, i disconnect the prongs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yotaman88210 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Im confused why u think that a battery tender, or therefore any slow charging device is going to ruin your electrical system or FI ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 i never use a tender, and never take my batt. out over winter. spring rolls around snd she starts right up.(now that i have said this my battery is going to die.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I've taken my battery out every winter and kept it in the house and put the tender on it 1x a month. I used the factory battery for 4 years never a problem. I purchased a new gel battery before I sold it just for the hell of it. Why even mess with waiting until it dies. I normally buy a new bike battery ever 4 years and car battery every 3-4 years. I don't wait for problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vectorvictor Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Two things...First, fuel injected or any computerized vehicle (motorcycle or otherwise) has what is called "parasitic load" on the battery while the engine isnt running... This is due to the computer requiring a small amount of draw (milliamps) to store the "closed loop" settings in the memory. This info is needed to cleanly run the engine after it warms up and starts to read the engine sensors. The computer also stores a factory base map in "read only" memory that cannot be erased by disconnecting power for any period of time. This is the "open loop" memory or perameters and they can only be changed by manually erasing the chip. This will start the bike and run the bike untill it can see the sensors ( engine temp, exhaust gas, manifold pressure (or vacuum) and others) to decide from there how to adjust to the environment to run most efficiently. Second, the old wives tale of cold batterys go dead is actually backwards now due to better case technology and materials. It used to be that battery cases were made of tar and cotton or something like it and the material would leak when it got cold. This would cause weak batteries at the very least and mostlikely dead ones when left out in the cold. Todays batteries dont leak and are very stable at low temps but just loose some cranking amps due to the liquid being cold and preventing movement of molecules. Conclusion, Carbureted bikes... turn off key and store. trickle charge 12 to 20 hours before starting bike with or without being connected to the electrical system.fuel injected bikes... disconnect terminals and store in the bike and then trickle charge the same amount before starting. Charge the battery disconnected or connected it dosent matter. If there some how is a power surge with a connection to the system your fuses will blow before damage occurs, yes they work that way too, and the short run between your driveway and the gas station will reset the lost memory and you are back to pre winter specs.Now the question is did you put some fuel system additive in to keep the fuel from turning into jelly or tar?sorry if i bored you but brain is working for a change:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 ok thanks for the info. i was worried about the fuses not protecting the computer and frying it but you answered my question totally now thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Now the question is did you put some fuel system additive in to keep the fuel from turning into jelly or tar?Dont you mean varnish... by the way.. Gas looses about 2 octane points a month when stored. At least thats what Ive read. Even more if its summer and in a plastic can. I never use additives for storage. I fill my tank to the top to avoid condensation in the tank and Im done with it. Once summer hits, I run the tank damn near bone dry and fill it with the good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Dont you mean varnish... by the way.. Gas looses about 2 octane points a month when stored. At least thats what Ive read. Even more if its summer and in a plastic can. I never use additives for storage. I fill my tank to the top to avoid condensation in the tank and Im done with it. Once summer hits, I run the tank damn near bone dry and fill it with the good stuff.now gas and fuels is something i do know about... i drive a bulk semi and my family owns a petroleum marketing company. and flounder is right thats all u need to do top it completely off and run it nearly empty the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jermattak Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 i ride my bike in the winter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vectorvictor Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 Yes, sorry, that was the word i was looking for. Guess my brain wasnt working so well last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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