tyler524 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 I am wiring my trailer up with a 7 pin harness and installing a battery on the trailer that can charge while I am driving my truck. My dad runs an Autozone and had the chance to pick me up a Duralast Marine Dual Purpose battery for cheap. I am trying to figure out how much I will be able to power off of this battery and am trying to figure out exactly what the ratings stand for. I know amps = watts/volts and how to figure out how much power I will draw. I am trying to figure out if the battery is only 106 amp hours or is it 316 including the reserve and where does the MCA and CCA come into play? I plan on using it to power my lights, maybe a radio, small fan or whatever else I can get out of it which I can figure out once I can figure out exactly what the capacity is that I have to play with. I will be running the lights and phone charger off of it at minimum and have a small inverter that I want to use if I can. The battery is a Duralast 29DP-DL and I can't really find any info on it online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Let's go this route because it's really a toss up depending what all you run. On my TT I can run a fridge for about 4 hours at min setting on a similar battery. I can also run the water pump for about 2 days on and off on the same battery. You should be fine, BUT if your trailer isn't wired for that already, there is more to do then just slap a 7 prong plug on there. 7 prongs are made more for trailer brakes then just running a charge back to the battery. Actually, I think you will need to do more then just swap the plug, I forget the name of what needs to go between the battery and the plug, but basically like a convertor, but not. Sorry, long day.If you really want, just charge the battery before you leave, and add an aux. plug in to the 4 prong between truck and trailer and hook it up that way.Sorry man, I can't think straight, so my jargon is a tad scattered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exarch Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Ask AutoZone or.the place u bought it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 You should be fine, BUT if your trailer isn't wired for that already, there is more to do then just slap a 7 prong plug on there. 7 prongs are made more for trailer brakes then just running a charge back to the battery. Actually, I think you will need to do more then just swap the plug, I forget the name of what needs to go between the battery and the plug, but basically like a convertor, but not. Sorry, long day.Everything I have read lists nothing about adding another component between the battery and truck. I will be adding a secondary fuse between the battry and wiring harness. The truck is already wired for for a 7 pin trailer harness and aill be able to charge the battery. I am in the process now of rewiring the interior lights of tbe trailer to a fuse panel and switch. I will also be ordering a trailer brake kit fairly soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 (edited) get with josh on here (rawlins87) he has some 105 amp hour deep cycles he is sell cheap $45 each..i got 2 of them for my rigif your vehicle has factory tow wiring make sure you have power to your accesorry 12v pin on your plug, my tahoe had a shunt in the fuse box and it was not active all i had to do was put a 40amp fuse in it Edited April 4, 2012 by 2talltim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawlins87 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Reserve and amp hours are different ratings for draw. They cannot be combined for a/h...and like Tim said I have very lightly used deep cycles (105a/h 650cca 850ca) for $45a each.I have two left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawlins87 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 4 plug trailer pin is just for light7 plug trailer pin is for light/electric brakes.....never heard of charging a battery that way? (Is your info correct?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 the 12v accessory wire (i think its the upper left pin) if active comes right off the voltage reguator(on most factory set ups) and can charge a trailer batt. while traveling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawlins87 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 the 12v accessory wire (i think its the upper left pin) if active comes right off the voltage reguator(on most factory set ups) and can charge a trailer batt. while travelingGood to knowThanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Good to knowThanks! i quess its only a few amp trickle, but its better than nothing..i still recomend putting a full charge on the trailer before any trips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Tyler, that's what i meant, a fuse just to ensure it doesn't transfer back etc. For instance, on my TT, I always unplug it from the truck when we park, even if Im using battery power(which if plugged in will pull from the truck just like a 4pin).Yeah if you are set up for a 7pin already, then just toss the battery with an inline fuse and you are good to go. Actually mine is just one of those tube fuses with a split off the 7 pin 12V line, like 2tall. posted.Sounds like you're good to go really. Also Ive never run anything more than a general brake controller, like 50-75$ model. Some places try to sell like all this high tech stuff, and honestly, I don't beleive for a second you need it.Is you F150 wired with the plug under the dash by OBDII plug? Like where you can just buy/use Ford provided plug, and just wire it real fast etc. Had that on my F150 and it was awesome, dad does too. My F250 came with a brake controller built in so that was nice too.Anyways, if you have any ?s on those let me know too, I've installed from the battery back once on an F150, tapping the correct wires etc. In your case I believe any F150 now has the wiring in place so long as it has a the tow package/hitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Tyler, that's what i meant, a fuse just to ensure it doesn't transfer back etc. For instance, on my TT, I always unplug it from the truck when we park, even if Im using battery power(which if plugged in will pull from the truck just like a 4pin).Yeah if you are set up for a 7pin already, then just toss the battery with an inline fuse and you are good to go. Actually mine is just one of those tube fuses with a split off the 7 pin 12V line, like 2tall. posted.Sounds like you're good to go really. Also Ive never run anything more than a general brake controller, like 50-75$ model. Some places try to sell like all tihis high tech stuff, and honestly, I don't beleive for a second you need it.Is you F150 wired with the plug under the dash by OBDII plug? Like where you can just buy/use Ford provided plug, and just wire it real fast etc. Had that on my F150 and it was awesome, dad does too. My F250 came with a brake controller built in so that was nice too.Anyways, if you have any ?s on those let me know too, I've installed from the battery back once on an F150, tapping the correct wires etc. In your case I believe any F150 now has the wiring in place so long as it has a the tow package/hitch.I actually got the towing package and trailer brake controller when I bought the truck. I am ordering the actual brake kit for the trailer the has the drums, spindles, and magnetic shoe assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Why not run a small generator with the batteries? Maybe run a secondary inverter from the batts along with the built in inverter on the gen? Probably overkill and not sure if that is necessary, but you'll ALWAYS have power for the trailer without relying on the trucks alt and if you keep fuel in the trailer for the bike(s), then you've always got fuel for the gen too. Just a thought, I have bad tendencies to overcook and overbuild ideas:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Why not run a small generator with the batteries? Maybe run a secondary inverter from the batts along with the built in inverter on the gen? Probably overkill and not sure if that is necessary, but you'll ALWAYS have power for the trailer without relying on the trucks alt and if you keep fuel in the trailer for the bike(s), then you've always got fuel for the gen too. Just a thought, I have bad tendencies to overcook and overbuild ideas:DI would like to do this but will need to buy a generator which isnt in the budget at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 I actually got the towing package and trailer brake controller when I bought the truck. I am ordering the actual brake kit for the trailer the has the drums, spindles, and magnetic shoe assembly.Gotcha, so you're actually adding trailer brakes to the trailer. Was that cost effecient vs buying a trailer with them? Just curious, my 6x12 V nose doesn't have brakes, but with my truck don't plan to ever put them on either. Wondering if they are truly needed or if its juts $$ you could use other places. Anything from a 6x12 single axle down I honestly feel if someone is towing with a F150/1500 or more, they don't need them. Once you hit 14 though, I think they are worth it even if just a piece of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Gotcha, so you're actually adding trailer brakes to the trailer. Was that cost effecient vs buying a trailer with them? Just curious, my 6x12 V nose doesn't have brakes, but with my truck don't plan to ever put them on either. Wondering if they are truly needed or if its juts $$ you could use other places. Anything from a 6x12 single axle down I honestly feel if someone is towing with a F150/1500 or more, they don't need them. Once you hit 14 though, I think they are worth it even if just a piece of mind.It's only $160 for a kit and worth that for peace of mind. Probably never actually need them but just in case. Plus it comes with new bearings which i kind of want to replace anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Yeah for 160, for sure worth it. Hopefully you'll never need it. I was pulling SJC's up to get his new tires this winter and def had to use the emergency brakes on his trailer when I hit a iced bridge on 71 going about 70mph. Not a good feeling at all. Only real issue I've ever had towing anything from 28TT to 12ft enclosed lol.Let me know how you like it, I bet it'll help with keeping the rear brakes on the truck from wearing too fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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