FIJI-9-Brother Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 So... the bleeder valve on my TL for the front brakes is kinda tucked behind the caliper when its on the rotor... i dont have a wrench small enough to maneuver the valve nut to open the valve to bleed the fluid. Question: can i bleed the brakes with the calipers off the rotors if i am using a vacuum pump rather than squeezing the brake lever to release the fluid... thanks for any help and advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester3681 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I wouldn't. Not with nothing in between the pads. Can you spin the caliper around on the rotor (flip in inside out) to get better access to the bleeder screw? Ultimately, though, I think the proper tool may be in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIJI-9-Brother Posted October 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 im gonna try to flip the caliper around... ill get back, if anyone else has ideas let me know, do they make tiny little wrenches for that? i have the proper size wrench, its just too damn long haha and i cant get a full enough stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester3681 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Sometimes I'll use a socket for bleeder screws. You can put a six foot extension on it if you need to. Just clean the socket off good afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Take the rotors off and bleed the calipers off the bike with each pad surface against its corresponding sides of the rotors, once bled then reassemble. Stack something under each rotor so the calipers can reach them. Its the harder way, but you'll be sure that each line/caliper is bled completely, and you'll have easier access to the bleeders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester3681 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Take the rotors off and bleed the calipers off the bike with each pad surface against its corresponding sides of the rotors, once bled then reassemble. Stack something under each rotor so the calipers can reach them. Its the harder way, but you'll be sure that each line/caliper is bled completely, and you'll have easier access to the bleedersOr this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridein Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Just take the caliper off and wedge somthing between the brake pads the same thickness as the rotor and bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Had another thought - if you pull the rotors to bleed the calipers away from the mounts, ziptie the rotor thru a bolthole and around the caliper so it can all stay together while you pump and purge over and over. That way you can move the caliper around without the rotor falling out each time you open the bleeder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 If you use a vacuum pump you don't need anything between the pads, that would be the easiest way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shittygsxr Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Gravity bleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 get proper tool. Brakes are important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 As long as you vacuum bleed, you don't need to worry about whether the caliper is attached to the fork leg. As a matter of fact, I usually use a wedge to push the caliper piston all the way in BEFORE I bleed the line to make sure all the old fluid is flushed and that I get the maximum amount of fresh DOT4 into the system. NOTE: When you do this, make sure your master fluid level is low enough to allow the fluid from the caliper to backflow into the reservoir without overflowing!!!Once removed, the main thing to make sure of is that you hold the caliper so that the bleeder valve is UP to ensure all the air is expelled from the brake housing. I do agree with other posters that a 1/4"-drive socket--maybe using a universal joint or one of the wobble sockets--should be able to reach the bleeder valve, but I'm not familiar with your bike's set-up.DO NOT bleed this way using the tried-and-true method of pumping the master cylinder piston!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokey Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Gravity bleedThat gets the old fluid out for sure, but still need to ensure any and all air is purged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I've gravity fed through the master cyl before, takes a lot of tubing, a step ladder and preferably two people. With a big bottle of fluid up on the ladder, siphon down into tube attatchrd to open bleeder nipple, it will force air and old fluid up the lines and into the master, just need to either siphon it out or suck out with turkey baster as the cup fills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIJI-9-Brother Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 thanks guys, i was thinking along the lines of what bubba said, ill get the calipers off again, compress the pistons, and do it with them off the fork legs. Thanks so much for all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiomike Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I used to take a small brass punch and put in the top of the bleeder and tap it lightly with a hammer before trying to loosen the bleeder. Seems to break it loose so you can open it without snapping it off. Depending on the location of the bleeder I always tried to used either a 6 pt wrench or socket to prevent slippage and rounding the bleeder off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Pauly beat me to it - i was going to suggest just using a spare rotor, or something of similar thickness. The calipers just have to be squeezing something. It doesn't have to be a brake rotor.Heck, you could take off the rear wheel and use the front caliper to grab the rear rotor if you really don't have anything around that is proper thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bshultz0930 Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 If you turn your caliper upside-down' date=' you will trap air in the bottom (well, now it's the top) and you will have a spongy lever. The bleed screw is on top for a reason... air rises.[/quote']haha i was wondering when someone would catch on to that..i used a vacuum pump when i did mine, my rear caliper bleeder screw was right under my exhaust and i could get like a 1/16 of a turn on it.. but it doesnt have to be open a ton.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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