RSparky Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 This is an update to my clutch implosion thread here... Long story short, a basket tooth broke, and got stuck between the crank driving and clutch driven gear, stopping the engine instantaneously. This also broke a couple discs, and now I found out that it bent my transmission drive shaft. See the pics below.Right sideClose-up.It is Item 12 on page 309 of the Service Manual.So here's the deal...The manual says I have to split the case to get this out. I'm hoping this is not true. Someone more experience than I? What's my best option? The manual also told me I had to drain the coolant just to scoot a hose out of the way, so I know it's not gold... I don't have a lot of time to work on it, thus why I'm just now updating my progress... Is this a worthwhile fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Coolant will need drained and the case will need split. You may be able to leave it in the bike but would probably be easier to pull it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSparky Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 bummer. i see you like keystone... i buy, you fix...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadyone Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Unfortunately splitting cases isnt worth beer. Unless its like a pallet full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cOoTeR Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Unfortunately splitting cases isnt worth beer. Unless its like a pallet full.A pallet of keystone what's that 50, 60 bucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bshultz0930 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 how bad is it bent? i cant really tell by the pictures..i would, in my opinion, may try to bend it back if its only slightly bent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidersDiscount Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 That engine is not so bad. It's similar to the 99-02 engine I split to fix that gen's trans issue, so I know what you're stepping in. You will have to drain all fluids, remove engine and split the case. The only real "hard" part is the oil pump chain, everything else is easy so long as you have basic mechanical knowledge (which seeing as you've gotten this far, it's really not that much more difficult). Once you get behind the oil pump/lubricating bits, the transmission follows. The output (sprocket) shaft pulls right out after the shift drum and forks. The input shaft (clutch/pictured in your op) is a bit more difficult as you have to release it from the clutch casing with two or three screws. Seeing as how it's winter/off-season, I'd budget about two-three weekends worth of work if you're ocd. You could crank it out in one weekend with no distractions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 how bad is it bent? i cant really tell by the pictures..i would, in my opinion, may try to bend it back if its only slightly bent?I couldn't personally recommend that. Doing so would change the grain structure of the metal and you could never guarantee the integrity of it. To bend it you would already need to take everything apart, you might as well just replace it. The alternative would then be trying to slowly bend it back with a press, checking the runout each time. Most people don't have a press, set up blocks and a dial or dial test indicators. It would cost you more in your own time to split the cases again and fix it if there ever was another problem vs. the $100 the part costs. Maybe that is an option for you sparky and I can't see anything ACTUALLY happening, but I personally wouldn't want to have a risk like that. My dad always said "bikes weigh twice as much pushing them to a gas station".That engine is not so bad. It's similar to the 99-02 engine I split to fix that gen's trans issue, so I know what you're stepping in. You will have to drain all fluids, remove engine and split the case. The only real "hard" part is the oil pump chain, everything else is easy so long as you have basic mechanical knowledge (which seeing as you've gotten this far, it's really not that much more difficult). Once you get behind the oil pump/lubricating bits, the transmission follows. The output (sprocket) shaft pulls right out after the shift drum and forks. The input shaft (clutch/pictured in your op) is a bit more difficult as you have to release it from the clutch casing with two or three screws. Seeing as how it's winter/off-season, I'd budget about two-three weekends worth of work if you're ocd. You could crank it out in one weekend with no distractions.I couldn't agree more. I haven't worked on that gen r6 , but I can give you general guidelines. The hardest part is organizing all of the pieces. If you take it slowly and want a fun project, you won't have any problems. Keep referring to the manual like you are, label things and think about what the next step is. I have split 3 cases and have a 4th engine sitting on my kitchen table now, it just keeps getting easier every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cOoTeR Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Or you could patch it back together then go accidentally wreck it. That is if you have full coverage. Or sell it to a track guy cheap no title then say it was stolen.*this is a joke I'm not encouraging you to commit insurance fraud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Do you think you can get that drive shave bent back to within .0008"? If so' date=' you're better than me, and I'm pretty damn good. [/quote']fuck, he has a estwing hammer bish... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSparky Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 You will have to drain all fluids, Just oil and antifreeze, right? I've already got the pan off so that's no big deal.The only real "hard" part is the oil pump chain, everything else is easy so long as you have basic mechanical knowledge (which seeing as you've gotten this far, it's really not that much more difficult). Got that off. We did have to dremel through the old gear that was on there. After it was almost all the way cut, it "popped" and cracked the rest of the way off. The basket chunk was putting it in a lot of stress.Once you get behind the oil pump/lubricating bits, the transmission follows. The output (sprocket) shaft pulls right out after the shift drum and forks. The input shaft (clutch/pictured in your op) is a bit more difficult as you have to release it from the clutch casing with two or three screws. Ok, I believe I get this. I put a couple oil pan bolts on there, and tightened them to pull the plate thingy off. (excuse my bad terminology, I'm at school, so no manual to check things.)I can see inside the gears, and can watch them switch back and forth while I turn the driving gear. So, at this point, it's literally just drain antifreeze, unhook things and pull the lower half off? Once again, no manual, or else I'd be more specific. With the lower off, the transmission shaft should pull out? Thanks a ton, btw. This is way deeper than I've ever been into my bike, but it's cool learning. Hell, I can't break it, it's already broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidersDiscount Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 (edited) Just oil and antifreeze, right? I've already got the pan off so that's no big deal.Those are the only fluids I know of Ok, I believe I get this. I put a couple oil pan bolts on there, and tightened them to pull the plate thingy off. (excuse my bad terminology, I'm at school, so no manual to check things.)I can see inside the gears, and can watch them switch back and forth while I turn the driving gear. So, at this point, it's literally just drain antifreeze, unhook things and pull the lower half off? Once again, no manual, or else I'd be more specific. With the lower off, the transmission shaft should pull out? Thanks a ton, btw. This is way deeper than I've ever been into my bike, but it's cool learning. Hell, I can't break it, it's already broken.No problem, here are some pictures of when I did my second gear fix. Once you get the engine out and flipped, this would be with the oil pan removed:Oiling bits removed:And cases are split with complete access to the trans and your input shaft (output shaft pictured):Hopefully these pictures make the task seem less daunting for you. These are just my pics, there are hundreds of threads with more (and better) pics if you google something along the lines of "how to second gear fix r6" The engines between the 99-02 and your 03-05 are nearly identical. Good luck. Edited November 15, 2012 by RidersDiscount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Have you taken the engine out or is it still in the bike? I can't imagine trying to pull the engine without having already drained the antifreeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bshultz0930 Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 haha sorry man, im a wrench at a lincoln dealership, i HATE doing trans work.. not that id bend a pump shaft back if it were bent, so i just hate seeing other people have to trans work.. but it sounds like your making pretty good progress.. if you dont have a good memory id label (like someone already said) or take pictures of things before you tear it down.. can only help.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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